SHO Is Ready For A Clutch....

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Danielle

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Unless you know for certain that the car had been dragged raced I would not suspect a synchronizer or synchronizer blocking ring. What happens is that the clutch fingers wear away meaning the clutch does not completely disengage. 8 times out of 10 a new clutch will fix this, a ceramic TOB will help keep in from coming back in 30 K miles like the conventional ones do.

1 time out of 10 adjusting the clutch cable (pulling up on pedal, at this point the auto adjusters are often frozen) will fix this, often the fix is temproary, at some point the clutch diaphram fingers start to collapse.

In the meantme if you must drive the car shut it off when at a stop and then put it in first, then start the engine to get going. Jamming it in with a partially released clutch will wear the synchronier blocking rings fast.

If I were you I would get a very good quality 15 mm and 18 mm deep half inch drive six pockets, and a breaker bar, borrow a floor jack, jack stands and an engine support, and put the $ 85 clutch in (it is 9 3/4s the proper size). I would not go out an buy a transmission for it yet, I bet a fresh clutch fixes things. Change the fork pivot bushings while you are in there.

Ya. I have the support and all. I guess I should go ahead and start on it. Wish me luck. Is it ok if I jack up just the front of the car or do I have to have the whole car jacked up?
 

Danielle

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Ya. I have the support and all. I guess I should go ahead and start on it. Wish me luck. Is it ok if I jack up just the front of the car or do I have to have the whole car jacked up?

And another thing. When I do jack the car up, I put the jack stands on the frame. Is that a good place?
 

itwonder

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The jack can be placed on the subframe to lift the car, and the jack stands positioned on the frame like this. Large size stands should be used to be solid and safe. I place wood blocks behind the jack stands to be extra sure it can't fall on me even if the jack stand was to fail; belt and suspenders so to speak. Safety first! Be absolutely certain the car cannot fall.
IMG 1992Small

In the rear, the wheels can stay on, but it may be helpful to raise it slightly. A stack of two 2x12's under each wheel will lift it 3".
 
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itwonder

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Here's another shot showing the large jack stands on the frame rails to hold the car up. The floor jack and small jack stands are on the subframe to hold it up as the bolts are removed to lower it out of the way.
IMG 1991
 

itwonder

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While we're at it, here's the engine brace set up. The rods hold the weight; the chains back up the rods for safety.
IMG 2000Medium
 

Danielle

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And here's a handy shot that shows all of the fasteners that secure the bell housing to the engine.
MTXboltpattern

Wow. Thanks! This will be a slow clutch installation since Ive got an interview tomorrow for Walmart. Ill be working nights to get some money for the clutch, oil pan, gaskets, etc. I know for sure I have the clutch. What else is recommended to replace during this process. I want to make sure everything is done right. Also have to wait to buy some 1/2" deep sockets. Dont have the money as of right now.
 

Danielle

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Wow. Thanks! This will be a slow clutch installation since Ive got an interview tomorrow for Walmart. Ill be working nights to get some money for the clutch, oil pan, gaskets, etc. I know for sure I have the clutch. What else is recommended to replace during this process. I want to make sure everything is done right. Also have to wait to buy some 1/2" deep sockets. Dont have the money as of right now.

I honestly am thinking of making this car all stock Again. I want to make it a daily driver instead. SHOs are becoming hard to find around me or the junk yards. My parents keep telling me to sell it but I just cant bring myself to do it! And instead of ruining the car with mods, ill feel better if its stock. By the way, Im curious. The stock SHO wheels had hubcaps on them that said SHO, right?
 

luigisho

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Your parents have wisdom. Many of us fall prey to becoming emotionally attached to these cars because of their rarity. Many of us also didn't have the income to keep them running. A lot of older owners have retired the car to part time status because it is a time and money suck and we finally chose logic over emotion. You are hoping to work at WalMart. If you own an old beat up car and want a reliable daily driver, you need 2 old cars
 

Danielle

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Your parents have wisdom. Many of us fall prey to becoming emotionally attached to these cars because of their rarity. Many of us also didn't have the income to keep them running. A lot of older owners have retired the car to part time status because it is a time and money suck and we finally chose logic over emotion. You are hoping to work at WalMart. If you own an old beat up car and want a reliable daily driver, you need 2 old cars

When I replace my clutch. Should I also replace my rear main seal??
 

Danielle

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Your parents have wisdom. Many of us fall prey to becoming emotionally attached to these cars because of their rarity. Many of us also didn't have the income to keep them running. A lot of older owners have retired the car to part time status because it is a time and money suck and we finally chose logic over emotion. You are hoping to work at WalMart. If you own an old beat up car and want a reliable daily driver, you need 2 old cars

People keep saying a rear main seal is only 10 bucks but the one im finding on oreillys isnt. It also comes with another piece. Does that go to the oil pan or something. When I get paid the ninth, I plan on replacing the pan since I have an oil leak. Anything else recommended to replace besides the main things which are listed in the video.
 

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luigisho

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The parts are correct. The other seal is a carrier gasket. When you get close up you will see a plate or super shallow pan than goes over the rear seal area. You have to remove that to access the rear main seal for replacement. Do you have a Sho specific factory repair manual? You want to tackle a lot of stuff and that would really be valuable.
 

Danielle

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The parts are correct. The other seal is a carrier gasket. When you get close up you will see a plate or super shallow pan than goes over the rear seal area. You have to remove that to access the rear main seal for replacement. Do you have a Sho specific factory repair manual? You want to tackle a lot of stuff and that would really be valuable.
I only have the chilton book. Ill try and look for a specific repair manual book
 

luigisho

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Try ebay. There is a big Taurus book and smaller SHO specific books. supplement looks like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-FORD-T...MENT-CAR-/380856491207?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

I would also pick these up if you can. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-TAURUS...-90-/131202641298?vxp=mtr&hash=item1e8c496d92

Getting harder to find for a cheap price. There is SHO specific stuff like engine & transmission in the supplement and the Big Taurus book for all the other stuff that is the same with SHO & reg Taurus repair.
 
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itwonder

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You can replace the rear main seal without removing the carrier. It just pries out, and the new one taps in (don't hit the crank). If you do remove the carrier, then you have to replace it's gasket and RTV where it mates to the pan. If you remove the oil pan, then replace everything; the oil pan end seals, the carrier gasket, and the rear main seal
 

luigisho

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That's it. I think they sell a lower gasket set with the oil pan stuff and the rear seals. Been almost a decade since I tore into the bottom end and rear seals.
 

Danielle

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That's it. I think they sell a lower gasket set with the oil pan stuff and the rear seals. Been almost a decade since I tore into the bottom end and rear seals.

Ok cool. Ill be looking into those. I know my oil pans been leaking but im not sure if its the seals or not. Ill probably just take off the oil pan and clean it up, and test it to see if it leaks.
 

luigisho

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It's either the seals, the rtv seal, or the drain plug rubber seal. Make sure you have clean surfaces top and bottom and correct rtv. The oil pan seals are only on the ends & rest is rtv along the sides. I think if I had to remove a bunch of stuff to get to the oil pan I'd put fresh seals in and cross that off the list.

Remember you will need to remove the exhaust stuff in the way to reseal the pan. Most of the sealing surface is goopy rtv & you have to get a pretty straight shot to install it without messing it all up.
 

Shoman594

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Some really great info here!

Does the carrier gasket usually leak? Like someone mentioned earlier i wonder if you get that far in if you should then just change the pan gaskets also.

Also what stock clutch and flywheel is everyone going with now?
 

LOUDSHO92

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Some really great info here!

Does the carrier gasket usually leak? Like someone mentioned earlier i wonder if you get that far in if you should then just change the pan gaskets also.

Also what stock clutch and flywheel is everyone going with now?

Valeo is the OEM clutch and is still a good one if you want stock: http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_5_24&products_id=528
You might want to go for a Stage 1 clutch like South Bend for reinforced straps as that is what tends to go.

Stock flywheel is fine or a 17lb flywheel for a lighter weight but not too much: http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_5_25&products_id=70
 

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