Danielle
Member
Unless you know for certain that the car had been dragged raced I would not suspect a synchronizer or synchronizer blocking ring. What happens is that the clutch fingers wear away meaning the clutch does not completely disengage. 8 times out of 10 a new clutch will fix this, a ceramic TOB will help keep in from coming back in 30 K miles like the conventional ones do.
1 time out of 10 adjusting the clutch cable (pulling up on pedal, at this point the auto adjusters are often frozen) will fix this, often the fix is temproary, at some point the clutch diaphram fingers start to collapse.
In the meantme if you must drive the car shut it off when at a stop and then put it in first, then start the engine to get going. Jamming it in with a partially released clutch will wear the synchronier blocking rings fast.
If I were you I would get a very good quality 15 mm and 18 mm deep half inch drive six pockets, and a breaker bar, borrow a floor jack, jack stands and an engine support, and put the $ 85 clutch in (it is 9 3/4s the proper size). I would not go out an buy a transmission for it yet, I bet a fresh clutch fixes things. Change the fork pivot bushings while you are in there.
Ya. I have the support and all. I guess I should go ahead and start on it. Wish me luck. Is it ok if I jack up just the front of the car or do I have to have the whole car jacked up?




