probe_racer
Active Member
yeah that wire gets only power when starting engine and if i remember correctly goes also directly to the DIS to reset it or something like that
thanks for the heads up
thanks for the heads up
SHO ford probe project
- Thread starter probe_racer
- Start date
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I looked at your old post. I read 3.2 in a mtx car. So I got my wiring diagram out and will hit the voltage in points.
The one to the starter is red-litblue hot in start
10 amp red-yel feed tach and ignition control hot in start or run
50 amp bl-org feed the ccrm module. Hot all the time
Manual lever position sensor. Betwen gry-red and lt blue-yel need 400 ohm resistor lets engine go past 4000 rpm per other post [3.2 in mtx swap]
15 amp ppl-org hot in run feeds o2 sensor
15 amps hot all the time feeds lt grn-red thu brake switch to Pin 2 off Boo
30 amp feeds Pin 1 and other items. Hot all the times
10 amp feeds red-lt grn Hot in start or run feeds crankpoistion sensor and cam and others.
Pin 20 ,40 and 60 are grounds at computer.
Hope that hits one that may help.
This is off a 94 3.2 engine wiring diagram. Maurice
The one to the starter is red-litblue hot in start
10 amp red-yel feed tach and ignition control hot in start or run
50 amp bl-org feed the ccrm module. Hot all the time
Manual lever position sensor. Betwen gry-red and lt blue-yel need 400 ohm resistor lets engine go past 4000 rpm per other post [3.2 in mtx swap]
15 amp ppl-org hot in run feeds o2 sensor
15 amps hot all the time feeds lt grn-red thu brake switch to Pin 2 off Boo
30 amp feeds Pin 1 and other items. Hot all the times
10 amp feeds red-lt grn Hot in start or run feeds crankpoistion sensor and cam and others.
Pin 20 ,40 and 60 are grounds at computer.
Hope that hits one that may help.
This is off a 94 3.2 engine wiring diagram. Maurice
probe_racer
Active Member
ok update
im doing the 60k service on it, but i ran into an issue. The crankshaft bolt will not come off, the engine is on an engine stand and i tried an air impact gun that has 500lbs of torque, put it on full reverse and did not remove the bolt, next i used a 3 feet long 1/2 inch breaker bar too and have a pipe and was not able to remove it...so now im wondering, is the crankshaft bolt supposed to come off counterclockwise or is this one of those engines with a backwards thread? has anyone ran into these issue?. any suggestions ??? thanks again guys
im doing the 60k service on it, but i ran into an issue. The crankshaft bolt will not come off, the engine is on an engine stand and i tried an air impact gun that has 500lbs of torque, put it on full reverse and did not remove the bolt, next i used a 3 feet long 1/2 inch breaker bar too and have a pipe and was not able to remove it...so now im wondering, is the crankshaft bolt supposed to come off counterclockwise or is this one of those engines with a backwards thread? has anyone ran into these issue?. any suggestions ??? thanks again guys
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Normal threads, the ****** is just frozen to the face of the dampener. Put some PB Blaster on the junction of the two and let set overnight. Use a 2' 1/2" breaker bar and a short, six point 19mm or 3/4" socket. Put tension on the bar to take up all the slack in the socket, bar, engine stand, etc and then wack the bar with a 2 lb hammer about half way up the handle. It's going to hurt the hand that is holding tension on the bar so wear thick gloves.
I've had to bolt the engine stand to the floor and put a 2x4 under the pulley to keep from tipping the engine and stand over, if you try and just use brute force on the bolt, but using the hammer method, the blow is so quick, nothing has any time to react.
Tom
I've had to bolt the engine stand to the floor and put a 2x4 under the pulley to keep from tipping the engine and stand over, if you try and just use brute force on the bolt, but using the hammer method, the blow is so quick, nothing has any time to react.
Tom
probe_racer
Active Member
update
bolt came off
i followed your advise, but right before giving the hit with the hammer bolt gave way :woo-hoo::woo-hoo:
so the build continues
bolt came off
i followed your advise, but right before giving the hit with the hammer bolt gave way :woo-hoo::woo-hoo:
so the build continues
probe_racer
Active Member
engine is taken apart removing rod bearings for inspection and possible replacement will post pics of them for you guys to see too.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
probe_racer
Active Member
took pics of some of the bearings since i didnt want to get my SLR super greasy
all the bearings look like the pics that follow upper bearing half is what is on the rod, lower bearing half is on rod caps. bearings are standard size and look almost with no wear, i guess....
also cylinder walls dont look worn at all
btw the bearings are all stamped on the back
11 05
CB 1435P
STD.
clevite 77
opinions??
change them or not???
all the bearings look like the pics that follow upper bearing half is what is on the rod, lower bearing half is on rod caps. bearings are standard size and look almost with no wear, i guess....
also cylinder walls dont look worn at all
btw the bearings are all stamped on the back
11 05
CB 1435P
STD.
clevite 77
opinions??
change them or not???
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luigisho
SHO Member
While I'm not one to want to do a job twice, I'd consider leaving them in if they all look like that. I've never seen such minimal wear on these bearings before. Only reason I'm not 100% in the change them camp is..I think the replacements run a slightly bigger gap. Memory is hazy on that to be certain.
The wear pattern looks familiar but I don't see any copper. oh ****..swap them for new ones.
The wear pattern looks familiar but I don't see any copper. oh ****..swap them for new ones.
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Off Road SHO
Moderator
That is not significant wear by any stretch of the imagination. Those probably have no more than 10, cold engine starts on them. I'd use 'em.
Tom
Tom
I have found out don't assume nothing. I just got done install the 2nd new ice machine in the same location. [And I had to fix it]They are dropping them in shipping.
So don't assume fuel pump is good. Check fuel pressure at rail, direction of fuel flow [I almost messed up on that one], Then check for good spark. I guess I am luck wiring is simple to me. Now the internal engine scares me. [Yes I did my bearing also.] Don't get down on it. I know everyone here want to help. Maurice
So don't assume fuel pump is good. Check fuel pressure at rail, direction of fuel flow [I almost messed up on that one], Then check for good spark. I guess I am luck wiring is simple to me. Now the internal engine scares me. [Yes I did my bearing also.] Don't get down on it. I know everyone here want to help. Maurice
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probe_racer
Active Member
update
i ordered a new set of rod bearings standard size from shosource and i will keep these ones for an emergency backup, just in case. decided to change them just to keep peace of mind.
thanks for all your help guys, all of your opinions are 100% appreciated.
the saga continues
BTW i might be wrong but it looks like the intake is ported i will post pics later on
:woo-hoo: im more and more confident that this car will be running in a few more weeks
i ordered a new set of rod bearings standard size from shosource and i will keep these ones for an emergency backup, just in case. decided to change them just to keep peace of mind.
thanks for all your help guys, all of your opinions are 100% appreciated.
the saga continues
BTW i might be wrong but it looks like the intake is ported i will post pics later on
:woo-hoo: im more and more confident that this car will be running in a few more weeks
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probe_racer
Active Member
sooo as i began to replace the bearings and paying attention to the having everything extra clean i noticed something on cranshaft journal of piston 5,
the journal has a pit in it, like a chunk of the journal just peeled off, i kept on looking at it and looked at the bearings more carefully to see what are my options again....
there is no damage to the bearings that the engine had, so i dragged a piece of paper accross it and it does not catch, i ran my nail on it too and same.. I talked to some people and said that most likely that nick/pit then is under the surface it will not scratch the bearings and that is why the bearings look good on that rod too.
im thinking of leaving like that.... or maybe giving it a super light sanding with 2000 wet grit/sanding paper.
opinions?
the journal has a pit in it, like a chunk of the journal just peeled off, i kept on looking at it and looked at the bearings more carefully to see what are my options again....
there is no damage to the bearings that the engine had, so i dragged a piece of paper accross it and it does not catch, i ran my nail on it too and same.. I talked to some people and said that most likely that nick/pit then is under the surface it will not scratch the bearings and that is why the bearings look good on that rod too.
im thinking of leaving like that.... or maybe giving it a super light sanding with 2000 wet grit/sanding paper.
opinions?
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Off Road SHO
Moderator
Leave it as is or at most do a crocus cloth and oil wipe. That just looks like an acid etch caused by a particularly "acidy" bubble of oil sitting there for a long period. Something that smal should not interfere with the oil flow at all.
Tom
Tom
probe_racer
Active Member
Thanks again for your opinions, I will give it a small wet sanding on that spot with 2000 grit just to make sure there are no high points, thanks again..
i never been overthinking so much all the details on an engine other than this SHO.. i guess i feel this engine needs tons of attention to detail like if it was a LFA engine or something like exotic like that.
EDIT: both the LFA and the SHO are yamaha engines
i never been overthinking so much all the details on an engine other than this SHO.. i guess i feel this engine needs tons of attention to detail like if it was a LFA engine or something like exotic like that.
EDIT: both the LFA and the SHO are yamaha engines
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intimdatr
Got Cams?
Im pretty sure i have one of these on my car as well, and i have new rods in with 2 years of HARD driving from a 17 year old high school student, I give her WOT at least once a day. And have no issues as of yet.
copperpacecar
New Member
did you guys ever get the swap to work? i successfully transplanted a 3.0 into a probe for dirt track racing and have had huge success with it. granted i started with a 94 probe with a 2.5 not the first gen you guys are using but my second dirt track car that i use as a spare is a 3.0 vulcan probe. i didnt wanna read through every post but if you want some pointers about some headaches to avoid let me know and ill tell you how i did everything.
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