Sho died

[SHOlove]

My SHO died on the highway yesterday. It had no power and it continually got worst as I tried to push it home. It would rev up to well over 4 rpms without moving.
It has never really had much power since I got it a month ago but I was about to do a 60k to replace that.
My idle normally sits at about 1.2k so I was going to reset the idle today.
I ran a code test and came up with 13 and 19. I think 19 is for a solenoid problem because the engine turns over if I am on the clutch while turning the key (without turning on the engine-just at one point when turning the key).
I am not sure what 13 is.
When the car died I could see smoke coming from the area by the timing belt. This always smokes when I raise the RPMS over 4k.
I could also smell the clutch burning when I tried to rev too much. I can shift Ok between all gears so I not sure if there is a clutch problem or it was just burning because I was revving and the car wasn't moving?
Question then: what could be the problem? timing belt? clutch? sensor? computer? or just dead?
Than you.

 

[SHO--ripper]

It sounds like your clutch is toast. Are you sure the smoke is coming from the timing belt not the trans/clutch?

 

[SHOlove]

It is a 89 SHO. I am positive it is coming from the region by the timing belt/alternator... etc on the passenger side. I am not sure if the clutch is in this region but I thought it was on the drivers side. Would the clutch cause the low power before? Why am I able to shift without grinding?

 

[TYSHO]

Timing belt? shrug

Edit: That is what could've possibly caused the not so good power before and as it wears and wears it gets worse until probaly what your facing now. Maybe the smoke was from the belt free spinning and not catching therefor burning up some. The thing that gets me is how would the motor run with out the cams working correctly? Why don't you remove the battery for some room and then unbolt the top bolts to the timing belt cover and pull it back some just to inspect? It won't come off, but enough room to inspect and feel. You'd also have to disconnect the DIS module and two clamps to the crossover tube to move it out of the way.

<small>[ July 07, 2003, 04:20 PM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[AutoSHO]

SHOlove:
Would the clutch cause the low power before? Why am I able to shift without grinding?

If the Clutch is worn out, it will still disengage and allow you to shift, it just wont grip.

If you're driving down the highway with the car in gear, and just press the gas, does the car accelerate forward or do the RPMs just go up without the car accelerating? If so, your clutch is toasted.

As for the low power problem, you'll have to wait until after you replace the clutch to go after that problem.

The smoking you saw is most likely your Front Main Seal on the crankshaft leaking onto the front cat and causing the smoke. Its very common for them to leak worse above 4k.

 

[SHOlove]

That sounds like my problem. ANy ideas about error code 13? I also got 19 but I tihnk that is from the starter solenoid (engine used to turn over without turning on the ignition).

 

[TYSHO]

I don't know, when my clutch went, it went. Tried to put in gear and grinded like there was no tomorrow. When you say it goes into gear, is that with the car running or off? If off, yes it'll go in regardless.

<small>[ July 07, 2003, 05:57 PM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[SHOlove]

It would go in gear while I was driving but it had no power. It started slipping in 5th first. Went down to under 50 miles so I shifted down to 4th. It was able to pick up then one I shifted to fifth the tachometer would be erratic but would eventually start to accelerate as I tried to balance the speed with the RPMs. When I smelled the clutch burning (and I couldn't get past 40 in 3rd, 4th or 5th) I came off the road. WHen I restarted I couldn't get past after it took a while to move in first. When I pulled over the third time and started it again it never moved again (would rev up but no power to get going). Does this sound like a clutch problem or something else?

 

[TYSHO]

Have you took a look at that t-belt? See if it's loose, broken, or possibly nothing to grab the sprockets. This sounds more timing than clutch, as I'd think it'd grind if it was that case.

 

[masho95]

Looks like it's clutch time. Suspect item is the throw out bearing.

 

[SHO--ripper]

Eric i agree. My friends clutch went and there was no grinding. It wouldn't move and all's you could smell is clutch. You should probably just start taking it apart and find the culprit. If removing the upper timing cover doesn't bother you i'd do that before removing the trans for peace of mind. If there is tension i'd order a new clutch and start pulling the trans.
BTW eric did you send reverse back yet? don't rush because texas hasn't figured paypal out yet.

 

[sdpatt]

13 (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO) - ISC
(R) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
(M) ISC sticking, open ITS circuit or TP sticking

19 (O) No Vehicle Power (pins 37 + 57) or bad PCM VPWR Diagnosis
(R) Erratic idle during test (reset throttle & retest) - Idle Set Procedures
Electronic ignition Cylinder ID sensor/circuit problem - Ignition Systems

It sounds as if you are guessing at the meaning of the codes. Please follow the links at the bottom of my signature to learn the real meaning of the EEC codes. I have posted the two codes you stated and you can see that they have nothing to do with the clutch interlock. The letters at the end of the definitions show the state where the codes were displayed. The "M" indicates "memory" section of the KOEO test, the "O" indicates hard fault in the KOEO test and the "R" indicates a hard fault in the KOER test.

The 13 code for the idle speed control says that either your idle air control valve is malfunctioning, disconnected or the previous owner unplugged it and used the hard stop set screw to adjust the idle (bad, but with the problems your car is having I would not be surprised).

The code 19 says that the cylinder identification (CID or CMP) sensor on the passenger end of the rear bank exhaust camshaft has faulted. This would cause ugly starts and possibly engine bucking while underway. The Wells F134 sensor can be purchased from AutoZone for $29.99.

 

[SHOlove]

I thought I had read that error 19 was for solenoid problem (probably in Chilton's). I feel more comfortable with your analysis sdpatt. Thank you guys for your suggestions. I will attend to these problems as soon as possible and keep you posted.

 

[TYSHO]

Hold up...I don't go about just reading codes, there's other reasons to trip codes and if I would've really read through clearly on your codes(especally 19) I would've posted already about it(sorry). REPLACE your PCM (computer), unless you want to go replacing parts and still have your problem and think my Ford Diagnostic book is lying. thumb

Edit: BTW Scott to update on your list of parts, the cheapest/better Camshaft sensor is Borg Warner CSS29 $27.99 @ O'Reilly's 'with' LLT warranty. thumb

<small>[ July 08, 2003, 05:46 PM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[SHOlove]

Do you think if I reset the idle (assuming this resets the PCM too) will fix any of these problems. I didn't have any troubles starting and did not experience any engine bucking. I am still trying to decide if it is worth spending over $1000 to have a mechanic replace the clutch.

How much would a new PCM cost. I checked shonutperformance and midwaysho and didn't see anything. I will keep looking.

 

[TYSHO]

The A1 for an 89 is $94.99 with a $90 core charge and the same price regardless if it has federal(49 states) or California emissions, at Autozone. O'Reilly's has the same brand, but for $10 more at $104.99 with a $70 core. I didn't bother to look at Napa or any other auto stores as I don't go hunting and just use AZ or OR's as they're down the street. thumb