Shim / 60k Tool Kit

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SHObill

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Good Job on the clearance check!
-while you have that frt cam out, remove the bucket & spring to inspect them. Maybe a weak spring. Did you happen to pull extra buckets & springs when you pulled shims from that JY SHO?
 

JRA2000TL

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Good Job on the clearance check!
-while you have that frt cam out, remove the bucket & spring to inspect them. Maybe a weak spring. Did you happen to pull extra buckets & springs when you pulled shims from that JY SHO?

Thanks....nope, didn't take anything else so I don't have any buckets/springs. I swiped some extra shims like I told you about on the phone that time we chatted. I'm trying to get the top timing cover off and have all the bolts removed, but it's stuck on something....now I'm looking to see how I release tension on the accessory belt. Slow process but no major screw ups just yet for me. Looks like I have to unbolt some fuel lines to get this rear valve cover off.

I'll let you know if I need to the tool kit. I had several replies, but I know you have spare shims in sizes that I might need (I know your kit is really comprehensive and includes everything). I'm going to dig into the rest of it tonight and tomorrow to see what if anything else I need first. I'm still out here in the garage going back and forth between the car and the forums. It's a hold my hand process, I know, but it's coming along slowly.
 

SHObill

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Why are you messin with the frt end? You don't need the upper TimingBelt cover off to do cam/shim work. -there is a full rear lower TBC bolt that can be hard to see, there are 9 all together.
--release tension on the rear accessory belt=losen nut on pulley, use 5mm hex on flex extensions to access tension bolt. there is a notch in the dampner brkt to access. call me if you need to.
 

JRA2000TL

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I thought I had to pull the upper timing cover to change the cam since you have to remove the 3 bolts from the sprocket right? The replacement cam I have includes a new sprocket also. Plus, I will need to verify the timing marks once I install the cam right?

We finally got the upper timing cover off. I totally brain farted and forgot about SHOPhoenixproject. My computer is screwing up trying to read my 60k DVD, so I went to the Phoenix website and got it figured out.

Now...the timing looks to be off; maybe I'm stupid but I'm learning. I haven't removed any cams. Here's a pic of what I have

60k2

60k3

The little dots on the sprocket don't line up with the line mark on the dust shield. I thought they were supposed to....and I haven't even removed anything yet in regard to the cams/sprockets.

Here's what all I have removed so far....yeah ****, it looks like I'm doing a top and full 60k at once with all this crap removed.

60k4

And finally, what I thought was p/s fluid all around the pump looks to be sludged oil, which means my damned rear cam seal must be leaking...ugh, what a PITA. Take a look

60k1

Crap, I'm wondering what else needs to be done while I'm this far in the car. I'm almost dumb enough to try to replace my noisy p/s pump. I'm sure the car will be down for awhile awaiting parts if I find more junk wrong.
 

LJRuddy

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Rotate the engine by hand a few times. If i remember right, every 3rd rotation of the engine will put the cam sprockets and crank in perfect alignment. Once the belt has been installed and the engine has been ran, the belt will never align perfectly again.
 

rubydist

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That timing belt looks almost new - it will not need to be replaced.

The timing belt sprocket marks only line up if the crank pulley is turned to the timing mark (and then only every 2 revolutions of the crank, since it is a 4 stroke engine), so all you need to do is rotate the crank to the proper location.

The timing belt lines only line up occasionally, due to the length of the belt vs. the # of teeth on the sprockets. Don't worry about that except when you are installing the belt.
 

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