Shim / 60k Tool Kit

[JRA2000TL]

Wasn't sure if I should post this here or in the WTB section. I am going to try to finally get around to replacing this camshaft soon and checking the valves and replacing at least 1 shim (the pitted/scratched one causing my engine noise).

My question is....can I get by without the Rotunda kit? I didn't have any kind of tool to depress the valve and remove the shim back when I opened the engine up to figure out the source of the noise.

I know I can rent one of these from someone on the forum, but is there a reasonable way to improvise? I'd like to get started on it tomorrow. I'm going to go buy a feeler gauge. I have my new cam, cam seal (just doing that 1, others don't appear to be leaking), intake gaskets, VC gaskets, and plugs. I even have some spare intake bolts and replacement shims I pulled from the j/y.

Sorry if I should have searched more before posting...just wanna get this done. If I need to rent a kit, I will; I am just bad at putting things off I'm scared of (like working on this car).

 

[elarm1]

Well if your replacing the camshaft thats pitted and the shim underneath it, you don't need the tool kit but if your replacing the the shim with out removing the cam, you might need it

 

[JRA2000TL]

Well if your replacing the camshaft thats pitted and the shim underneath it, you don't need the tool kit but if your replacing the the shim with out removing the cam, you might need it

Yeah I'm usually one to halfass things but I figured if I'm going to be in there maybe I should at least check the other shims to see if they're in spec and swap them out if any are out of tolerance. I guess I could always just do the direct swap as is and replace the bad one.

 

[rubydist]

I disagree - I think that if you are changing the cam, there is a high probability that you will need to change several shims. The shims are virtually impossible to get out without the proper tools, and you very much want the proper valve clearance.

I would get a tool kit from someone and do it right.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

We have shim kits for rental at SHO Source. You will need it to make sure you have correct clearance.

 

[Phoenix]

You can re-shim/adjust by installing / removing the cams twice....

 

[tdoughboy37]

I would NOT suggest removing the cam after it is installed and the journal caps are tourqued to spec. Chances are, even doing it once you may have to heli-coil the threads because the aluminum gives out. Your best bet is to rent the shim kit from shosource. It comes with everything you will need to adjust the valves and has a more than adequate supply of good shims. I rented one from them last summer. everything was as promised and their communication regarding orders is acceptional

 

[Phoenix]

You dont have to torque them , just make sure the caps are well sit.

Ive done this once and worked , now I use my rotunda kit.

 

[tdoughboy37]

You dont have to torque them , just make sure the caps are well sit.

Ive done this once and worked , now I use my rotunda kit.

I've heard of it being done that way and never heard of any failures. For my own piece of mind, I torque them down. (my be to my own detriment, lol) All I'm saying is, you can't go wrong following mfg guidelines.... But then, most of us, including me, ignore the mfg from time to time. Not to mention, I wouldnt trust em with working on my car.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

The cam caps require very little torque to seat. I think it is around 10-12ftlbs. So be very careful.

The thread is a very odd thread. It took me to find a bolt specialty store to get the helicoils which are a 7mm I believe which are rare to find. I then figured out in order to re tap it would require you to pull out the sleeve that guides the cap to get in there so yeah its very hard and in the end might not be worth it if you have to re-thread.

 

[SHOhopefull]

MMmmm...sounds like my old Northstar LOL

 

[JRA2000TL]

I've received several *** on the shim kit and will be responding soon. I'm in the garage now with the laptop, 60k DVD, my brother, and this SHO all torn down to the heads. I'm about to check the valve clearances as we speak before I pull anything apart. I do have a feeler gauge. Oh and removing the hood is worth the extra 5 to 10 min.

Real quick...Do I have to remove the whole engine dampener thingy to get the top of the timing cover off? We just tried to remove some of the bolts and move it, but it's in the way still as well as the p/s lines.

 

[LJRuddy]

It is a LOT easier to get to those timing cover bolts if you remove the dampener. I had a very hard time reinstalling the lower bolt that connects the dampener to the engine so I left it off. Luckily, I have solid mounts so I don't need that part anyway.

 

[tdoughboy37]

The cam caps require very little torque to seat. I think it is around 10-12ftlbs. So be very careful.

The thread is a very odd thread. It took me to find a bolt specialty store to get the helicoils which are a 7mm I believe which are rare to find. I then figured out in order to re tap it would require you to pull out the sleeve that guides the cap to get in there so yeah its very hard and in the end might not be worth it if you have to re-thread.

I torqued mine to 9 and they still stripped. Napa carries the 7mm heli coil kit as well as individual coils. To remove the sleeve I used an easy out (broken) bolt extractor and they came out pretty easy. Needless to say, it was a PITA! Not really hard to do, but VERY time consuming.

 

[LJRuddy]

I torqued mine to 9 and they still stripped. Napa carries the 7mm heli coil kit as well as individual coils. To remove the sleeve I used an easy out (broken) bolt extractor and they came out pretty easy. Needless to say, it was a PITA! Not really hard to do, but VERY time consuming.

Don't screw that up like I did. Hurray for aluminum in the oil.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Guys don't tell me that crap. This task is a leap of faith for me as it is. I'm going to check the clearances before I ask for a tool kit. I'm in the process of checking the front / left bank right now, doing the rotate the crank deal. I hope they're already all in spec; then I can just replace this cam and go on to something else.

Oh my intake gaskets seemed to be oily and smell like gas; maybe they're leaking. The car runs rich as ****. No codes for O2 sensors though.

I'm guessing when I check the clearances with the cam lobes sticking straight up that the gauge which fits snugly in there w/o being too loose would be the correct # to record.

Ok...getting back to this now....I will post the #s when I'm done.

 

[LJRuddy]

Don't freak out too much on the cam caps. Personally, I would not use a torque wrench to torque them to spec. Get a small 1/4" ratchet and hold it at the base (where you turn the adjustment for right or left) and hand tighten each bolt until you feel it stop. Add 1/16 - 1/8 extra turn and call it good. Let your hands be your torque wrench.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Ok front / left bank valves are all in spec, which I don't get b/c if you're standing in front of the car looking at it, the very top left shim/lobe is the damaged one that's been rattling; so you'd assume that it would be out of spec. Odd...here's what I got. Here's the diagram standing facing the windshield looking at the front/left bank (in inches)

Intake
() () () () () ()
.009 .009 .009 .009 .008 .008

Exhaust
() () () () () ()
.014 .014 .014 .014 .012 .012

I'm going to check the right / rear...if all is good, I'm going to go ahead and swap in this cam and recheck those. I'll replace the damaged shim with one the same size if I have it. If they're still in spec after that....I guess I'm good to go?

 

[LJRuddy]

Ok front / left bank valves are all in spec, which I don't get b/c if you're standing in front of the car looking at it, the very top left shim/lobe is the damaged one that's been rattling; so you'd assume that it would be out of spec. Odd...here's what I got. Here's the diagram standing facing the windshield looking at the front/left bank (in inches)

Intake
() () () () () ()
.009 .009 .009 .009 .008 .008

Exhaust
() () () () () ()
.014 .014 .014 .014 .012 .012

I'm going to check the right / rear...if all is good, I'm going to go ahead and swap in this cam and recheck those. I'll replace the damaged shim with one the same size if I have it. If they're still in spec after that....I guess I'm good to go?

As long as you did the procedure correctly, you are good to go. Looks like you got lucky thus far.

 

[SHOhopefull]

Good Jeremy, when you get done, you can drive up here and we can do mine! :theyareontome: