Shifting problem

[Anonymous]

I have a 93 MTX and I noticed only when taking off the line mashing the gas , the shifter doesn’t go into gear causing me a major Misshifting to where I gotta let off the gas a lil to get it in gear , this only happens at hard acceleration, during normal driving it shifts smooth, has anyone had this issue with missing shifts at higher RPMs ????

 

[zoomlater]

Motor or tranny mount issue?

 

[RonPorter]

How many miles? Could be a sloppy shifter, or just synchros worn (which are now unobtanium new). But, as was mentioned, it could be bad mount(s).

 

[Anonymous]

How many miles? Could be a sloppy shifter, or just synchros worn (which are now unobtanium new). But, as was mentioned, it could be bad mount(s).

The motor has 100k now , the trans over 240k and the shifter does feel a lil sloppy

 

[yaycandy]

The motor has 100k now , the trans over 240k and the shifter does feel a lil sloppy

I had similar issues in multiple cars. Usually its motor mounts and tranny mount as at high rpm the motor and all moves too much. On a rwd car say a 5 speed. My issue would be at high rpm shifting into 3rd as when you go from 2nd to 3rd. The twisting of the tranny and motor as one makes 3rd not straight like it should but more to the right.

Also see if you can tighten up the shift cables or convert to rod shift if it already isnt. But rod shift would feel a wore out tranny and motor mounts more than a cable shift system would.
Kept my 90' as cable shift because of this.

 

[RonPorter]

I had similar issues in multiple cars. Usually its motor mounts and tranny mount as at high rpm the motor and all moves too much. On a rwd car say a 5 speed. My issue would be at high rpm shifting into 3rd as when you go from 2nd to 3rd. The twisting of the tranny and motor as one makes 3rd not straight like it should but more to the right.

Also see if you can tighten up the shift cables or convert to rod shift if it already isnt. But rod shift would feel a wore out tranny and motor mounts more than a cable shift system would.
Kept my 90' as cable shift because of this.

93 MTX would definitely be the rod.

 

[yaycandy]

Lots of miles on tranny. Wouldnt hurt for a rebuild also. Would cost a good bit, may be just as expensive to find one with lower miles.

 

[RonPorter]

Key stuff like the synchros are unobtanium. I would go with three new mounts, preferably the reinforced ones. New subframe bushings, Gen 3 or AL, wouldn't be a bad idea either.

 

[yaycandy]

Key stuff like the synchros are unobtanium. I would go with three new mounts, preferably the reinforced ones. New subframe bushings, Gen 3 or AL, wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Quick non thread related question. I was looking for the clutch hydraulic container/master cylinder and gave up looking. Is it a hydraulic clutch? Every manual i owned was hydraulic clutch. If its cable clutch then i may replace it all for peace of mind and to be sure its adjusted correctly.

 

[RonPorter]

Quick non thread related question. I was looking for the clutch hydraulic container/master cylinder and gave up looking. Is it a hydraulic clutch? Every manual i owned was hydraulic clutch. If its cable clutch then i may replace it all for peace of mind and to be sure its adjusted correctly.

Nope, it's a cable. Other than trying the adjustment procedure with the pedal (which never worked for me), the cable is pretty reliable

 

[RonPorter]

Another thought is if your clutch engages way up in the travel, it could be that your clutch is getting toasty.

Try the pull-up-the-clutch-pedal adjustment procedure.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Another thought is if your clutch engages way up in the travel, it could be that your clutch is getting toasty.

Try the pull-up-the-clutch-pedal adjustment procedure.

Adjusting the clutch quadrant raises the pedal engagement point, not lower it. Lifting the pedal from it's normal resting point disengages the quadrant. If the pedal engagement is close to the floor:

http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable

 

[RonPorter]

That process never worked for me. But, it appears that it's only good for adjusting the pedal on a new clutch, which disengages closer to the floor. As the clutch wears, the engagement point keeps moving up, until it finally starts slipping in progressively lower gears.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

The engagement point moves up as the friction disk wears. It goes down when the fingers wear, which is a lot more common. It can get to the point where the clutch won't fully disengage, which is when adjusting the quadrant can give the clutch a little more life.

 

[RonPorter]

I've never had that. As all of my MTX clutches were expiring, they were all getting higher in the travel. I can use the high engagement point to predict a dying clutch.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

I've never had that. As all of my MTX clutches were expiring, they were all getting higher in the travel. I can use the high engagement point to predict a dying clutch.

That will happen if you slip the clutch a lot on upshifts or aren't too good on rev matching on downshifts. But I'm sure you know how to change gears to minimize disk wear, Ron!

Most of the of clutches I've replaced in the last 20 years had worn fingers rather than worn disks. A Ceramic TOB which is kinder on the fingers makes a big difference.

 

[RonPorter]

Been driving a manual since I took my road test in the family 61 Chevy 3-on-the-tree back in 66!

I've driven other folks MTXs, and have only felt a near-death clutch when it was near the top of the travel. Never have heard of one being bad with travel at the bottom.

Maybe in the setup, with the TOB riding the fingers? I have not heard of a low clutch pedal in my years of SHOs.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Lowell Galliani's '89 that I spent 10 months restoring:

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Team Dick Lemons car. I could go on.....