gixxer1000 said:
I'm hoping if it did spin the cam that it didn't ***** the engine.
Spun cam=fubared engine, it's that simple. It's an interference engine, so once a cam spins pistons impact valves.
gixxer1000 said:
While it's torn down it will also have a plug change and be welded.
Complete waste of money. Cam welding is a
preventative service, NOT a corrective one. All welding the cams does once a sprocket has spun is permanently set the out-of-time condition and just about guarantees bending 8 valves in one head.
If you are paying someone else to look at it, just start with a compression test. A comp. test is simple and inexpensive, and just about any mechanic should be able to do it. Biggest hurdle for most will be getting the surge tank off. Any loss of compression means stop there, tow the car home, and consider your options. A really good mechanic can also just check it with a stethoscope while the engine is cranking to hear the cam failure.
You can also check for front head cam failure very simply on your own by pulling the fuel pump fuse (or tripping the IFS switch in the trunk), and observe the water pump drive pulley (the "highest" one, on the end of the front intake camshaft, directly below the main wiring harness that runs along the top of the front valve cover) while a friend cranks the engine (you don't need to remove the vanity cover, you can view this pulley by standing by the driver's side fender). If the water pump drive pulley doesn't turn at all, or it turns in an intermittent or jerky fashion, then you have a front head cam failure. Once again time to consider your options.
A rear head failure is easiest to isolate with a compression test.
Let us know what you find out.