S/C guys....belt questions

[BlackonBlack89]

OK well after working for muiltiple nights past 12 to get this thing running and fixing the little promblems, I think most of them are fixed. However after driving it around tonight for less than 10 miles it destoryed the belt. I noticed it before that it was fraying but did not see anything touching it.

The belt seems to slowly eat away at one side. Closest to the engine. Pulled over to check it and there was still 5 ribs left. At this point knew it was a problem as the gap switched sides (fender side) After another couple miles it finally gave up. Looked like it made it to 3 ribs.

I think the alt UDP may be causing the problem. Anyone have expirence with this??? I noticed later that it was rubbing a little on the bracket by the 2 bottom bolts as the p/c is gone. Going to address this next but do not wanna waste another 30 for a belt, just to have it shredded again if its not the problem.

Anyone else have any problems with this?? soultion or things to check???? TIA.

anyways the car runs great, while it was running. I was surpirsed how soon its actually in boost.....at 3500 it was at 2-3. Man its a totally different car. driving home w/o the s/c the car felt so slow. Anyways hopefully this will be the last of the kinks to get ironed out. After this I am going to install the WBo2.....makes me nervous w/ out it.

 

[gmorrell]

If this is a SHOShop style SC bracket, I'm surprised you can even run the alt UDP, there wasn't room in my setup for the oversized alt pulley. Additionally, there were several different alt UDP's to accommodate different model years of alternators. They had different offsets, and running the wrong one would affect belt alignment. It might be tolerable without a blower, but once you have all those pulleys so close together and supplying huge amounts of shaft HP to the blower, pulley alignment gets super-critical. If you have the OEM alt pulley, I'd give it a try.

Are you running a stock crank pulley?

Also, check the bearings in the idler pulley on the SC bracket, if these are worn, belt alignment goes bad in a hurry. The SC bracket idler is a NAPA item, I don't have the pn handy on this laptop, but if you need it, PM me and I'll hunt it up.

Gary M.

 

[BlackonBlack89]

Yes the crank pulley is stock. I am going to swap out the alt udp for a stock one. I am betting it is this. The idler feels fine but will check it since it has to come out anyways.

Yes the alt UPD is very close to the idler. Maybe a couple thousands gap. Its going to go, I didn't like it that close.

Thanks

On a side note. I am getting good at taking the bracket on and off. That long bolt on the bottom was such a PITA to get lined up!!!!

 

[shopartsnw]

I am running a SHO Shop style alt UDP with the supercharger and it fits. The car is a 95, so the SHOshop S/C bracket had to be modified to fit; this may be the reason it works.

When I first did the S/C install, I also had belt shredding issues. I found that the SHO Shop set up tolerances were off and the S/C was sitting at a slight angle, I had used fine shim stock to true up the bracket, and then we remade the spacers and/or machined the bracket to square it up.

Once I got the Reichard pulley, the problem came back. I found that since we mount the S/C pulley backwards, the shoulder is too long and it offsets the pulley. Again, back to the machine shop, but now everything works great.

The short answer: I recommend you use two straight edges to make sure all your pullies are lined up. Put one straight edge on each of two pulley faces and measure to make sure they are parallel. Once you know everything is running parallel, then you need to look at the offset on the supercharger and idler pulley to make sure they are not sticking out too far.

Hope that helps.

Mike

 

[Lupo]

I used to shred my belt too. With the braket, the alt pulley was so close to the idler pulley, that I couldn't even use a stock atl pulley, I actually had to use a modified smaller pulley to fit. So my alternator was actually "overdriven".
I changed the idler pulley location, which gave me plenty of room for the alt UDP, and more belt wrap. Along with a Reichard pulley, I have had nore more issues.

 

[BlackonBlack89]

Well drove it around last night for 10 or so miles around town. The belt seems fine, no fraying or any signs of it. The alt UDP offset must have been a tad different. Driving it around more today later to check. I am pretty sure that its fixed though. Its riding right were it should. Everything else so far seems good too.

All that is left that I wanna do is buy/install the wideband, figure out how I can get a FP gauge setup, and route the ccv to the inlet . Also I got my 3" mandrel bent builder kit friday so I can't wait to start that in the coming weeks. Just need another muffler

 

[yamahaSHO]

My setup was slightly mis-aligned when I added a Reichard pulley as it wasn't an exact fit. I then shimmed my alternator (w/ SHO Shop UDP) to help keep it from completely tearing up the belt.

Now that I have a Reichard pulley made specifically for our application via the group buy, my alternator pulley is the only thing mis-aligned... BARELY though. I will fix it, but I'm still on the belt I bought when I put the new motor in. I would be on the original, but I had to cut it off once to get the car home... Long story (actually not... I forgot to tighten the idler pulley bolt all the way when I put the motor in).

 

[shomethe$$$]

Anyone who doesn't run a dynamic tensioner and a 225-270 degree wrap on the SC is asking for shredded belts one rib at a time, mine is also misaligned by 1/16" so I'm using a 7rib 39.5" belt.

Anyone post a pic of there dynamic tensioner please

-Karm

 

[yamahaSHO]

I'll have to post pictures when I get back to NE, but I've yet to see anyone with as much belt wrap as I have on a SHO SC setup.

 

[ycode90]

I'll have to post pictures when I get back to NE, but I've yet to see anyone with as much belt wrap as I have on a SHO SC setup.

Please do I have slipping issues that **** me off .