?'s after GTP arms install on '89...

[shobikes]

So I finally did it. I got the GTP arms to replace the silly stock stamped units with the built-in rattle. Of course I went headlong into the job without consulting the Forum, 'cause they just looked so cool. I did shorten them 1/2" each, by cutting 1/4" off every threaded end, and the car has since been aligned. My rattles from back there are mostly gone. Everything went swimmingly EXCEPT:

How important is the placement and adjustment of the brake-biasing valve actuator? I removed the mount from the stock arm, and hammer-formed it to fit around the GTP arm, then randomly drilled a hole for the self-tapping screw that held it in place on the stock arm, after eyeballing it. No joy. I had to re-eyeball it once I had it in place, and relocate the mount, drilling another hole in my new lower control arm. My engineering background tells me the holes are in a non-stressed part of the arm, but I still hated drilling it, TWICE. Oh well- it's done, and SEEMS to be functioning, but I can't find any verbage on adjustment of this device. Can anybody give me some direction? I'd like to get it right, then tack-weld it there, 'cause I don't wholly trust the little screw.

 

[jelloslug]

I just trimmed a bit off the bracket and attached it with hose clamps. I took measurements from the old arm to align it properly. I has not move one bit. As for drilling the arm it should be OK. The control arms don't really see that much stress as most of the forces are directed through the strut. The forces that they do see are compression and tension in the axial direction of the tube. I don't know if I would weld on them though. The might weaken them unevely and cause them to break.

 

[DHMag]

i just removed the actuator arm from the proportioning block. removed the valves, drilled em, tapped em, and plugged em. hence my sig notation, "bypassed porportioning valve".

 

[fricker66]

DHMag:
i just removed the actuator arm from the proportioning block. removed the valves, drilled em, tapped em, and plugged em. hence my sig notation, "bypassed porportioning valve".

Yes, but bypassing the valves is not the best idea in his non-abs equipped 89. Rear lockup in a panic stop wouldn't be too much fun to deal with in traffic.

 

[DHMag]

fricker66:

DHMag:
i just removed the actuator arm from the proportioning block. removed the valves, drilled em, tapped em, and plugged em. hence my sig notation, "bypassed porportioning valve".

Yes, but bypassing the valves is not the best idea in his non-abs equipped 89. Rear lockup in a panic stop wouldn't be too much fun to deal with in traffic.

im aware he has an 89, no ABS. there are some 89ers who say its not a big deal, others who say NO WAY. in my book, it all depends on how squirrely ya like to drive/handle the car thumb

 

[gosho89]

Here was my answer on my '89
.89 cent clamp from Home Depot, use one of the existing holes on the bracket and drill another so you can install the clamp around the GTP arm. Then I used the other existing hole and a zip tie to fasten the e-brake cable to.

<small>[ January 28, 2004, 03:57 PM: Message edited by: gosho89 ]</small>

 

[shobikes]

Thanks for the replies, guys! I guess everything's alright then. I'll invest in another hose clamp to bolster the self-tapping screw, and try to forget about it...