Rust Repair.

[SHOspazz92]

The 89 we just picked up has one single little spot of rust. The underside is as clean as can be as well as the rest of the car. Here is where the rust spot is.

Now, I have not even seen the car in person but it is already driving me absolutely insane. I've never had to deal with Rust before, So a little insight on how a body shop would repair it would be appreciated.

HOWEVER, I do not want to have the whole right rear 1/4 panel painted for this one little spot. The paint on this car is original and damned near flawless. Not to mention, While this car is mint it will still be drivin quite often. I don't mind if that tiny little spot is repaired, Repainted and doesnt match 100% perfect. However, The rust just needs to leave ASAP.

-Sam

 

[BlackonBlack89]

I know its a very small spot (my 89 had it too with other spots along the back bumber and where the metal meet)

but for them to correctly do it I am 99% sure the paint will have to be "faded" in, to match. and for the rust to go away, it has to be cleaned away 100% to clean metal. Which turns a dime size spot into over an 2-3 In spot of bare metal. Now that little spot is now 4-5 inches of primer that has to sanded flat. And u can see how that spot get bigger and requires the fading.

yea it suxes, I know.

however maybe there something else that could be done. that part of the car is not flat or visible and maybe there is an alt. method of doing it.

 

[SHOspazz92]

I know its a very small spot (my 89 had it too with other spots along the back bumber and where the metal meet)

but for them to correctly do it I am 99% sure the paint will have to be "faded" in, to match.

yea it suxes, I know.

What would I be looking at to get just that one spot repaired? 5-600 Dollars?

-Sam

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

It's rusty, smash it

 

[BlackonBlack89]

What would I be looking at to get just that one spot repaired? 5-600 Dollars?

-Sam

idk bout that part (pricing). but that sounds bout right, maybe less depending on who.

 

[sperold]

Grind down the rust with a grinder, wire brush the area until you don't see any more rust. Put on a rust killer in spray can form and let it dry.
If the rust has gone through, you may need access to a plasma cutter and a welder to do a superbe job. By the looks of things you won't need that.
Do the obvious things.... install a layer of white lighning, let it dry and sand it off, do the spot putty phase and hit is with some primer... probably grey. This last part is the most important as you have to feather out the filler, spot putty and primer to match the surrounding.
Go to automotivetouchup.com and order the spray bomb that corresponds to your paint code, which is on the door. It will cover about 10 square feet of area.
I guarantee that you will be happy with the match of this paint to your paint, no matter how long it has been on there. And don't fall for the story that it will never last, and the rust will come roaring back. If you have done the prep correctly, it is permanent. You can buy the clear coat locally, so when you are done, hit it with a couple of coats.
The paint is not cheap, $20.00 a can and $10.00 to ship, but 4 cans can be shipped for the $10.00 cost.

 

[Jonny Cash]

^ what he said, but I would just use 60-80 grit by hand after i scraped out the rust instead of a grinder. Removing the tailight is two seconds, but taking off the bumper maybe overkill. Over there with a grinder and you slip up onto the plastic, could be a problem. Tiny little spot, very easy diy. Local auto-body supply, one can for 15 bucks- good to go.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Sweet, Thanks guys - I feel a lot better about it.

All I need to find now is a set of wheels. No bigger then 16''. I'll probably use a set of Gen III wheels, That or find a Similar wheel to the basket-weave in 16''. I just can't deal with a 15'' wheel haha.

-Sam

 

[randy'sho]

imo that 89 would look nice with a set of slicers!

 

[RonPorter]

Grind down the rust with a grinder, wire brush the area until you don't see any more rust. Put on a rust killer in spray can form and let it dry.
If the rust has gone through, you may need access to a plasma cutter and a welder to do a superbe job. By the looks of things you won't need that.
Do the obvious things.... install a layer of white lighning, let it dry and sand it off, do the spot putty phase and hit is with some primer... probably grey. This last part is the most important as you have to feather out the filler, spot putty and primer to match the surrounding.
Go to automotivetouchup.com and order the spray bomb that corresponds to your paint code, which is on the door. It will cover about 10 square feet of area.
I guarantee that you will be happy with the match of this paint to your paint, no matter how long it has been on there. And don't fall for the story that it will never last, and the rust will come roaring back. If you have done the prep correctly, it is permanent. You can buy the clear coat locally, so when you are done, hit it with a couple of coats.
The paint is not cheap, $20.00 a can and $10.00 to ship, but 4 cans can be shipped for the $10.00 cost.

You can also use POR 15 for a small spot, it kills rust. You can then paint over it. I believe a few folks have even done Por 15 on their subframes. Nasty stuff to work with, and it ain't cheap, but it works.

 

[Ashley_MTX]

Ok everyone keep in mind we don't have any of the tools you've mentioned to do this job. We might be able to borrow these things from friends but...in the worst case scenario of having to buy everything...how does that expense compare with taking it somewhere?

 

[Jonny Cash]

You own three SHO's and dont own tools? You're screwed.

seriously though. sandpaper and a couple spraycans. iirc dont the tails come out finger tight, plastic wingnuts?

 

[SHOtime2511]

thats a very tricky spot to fix correctly,my 90 had the same issue on both sides.
I had to fix both sides last summer when I was getting it ready for primer.
the issue is that there are two pieces of sheet metal that over lap at that spot.
On my car the rust was in between the two pieces of metal so i had to pry them appart only to find the rust was unreachable so I had to cut out that seem with a reciprocating saw and use some fiberglass and resin to fill the area then went over that with Bondo.I was so suprised that a tiny bubble that looked just like your's Sam could be hiding so much rust.
part of the problem is all that seem filler in the trunk areas hold moisture in on the metal.

Its also tricky to get that area's Bondo sanded correctly because of the concave shape of that panel.

In short,it looks like a tiny rust spot but if your wanting to fix it correctly im willing to bet its more than meets the eye.

 

[Ashley_MTX]

You own three SHO's and dont own tools? You're screwed.

seriously though. sandpaper and a couple spraycans. iirc dont the tails come out finger tight, plastic wingnuts?

We also don't have a garage.

 

[SHOspazz92]

You own three SHO's and dont own tools? You're screwed.

seriously though. sandpaper and a couple spraycans. iirc dont the tails come out finger tight, plastic wingnuts?

lol.

We have the tools needed for a lot of repairs. Just not repairs involving rust. I've never owned a SHO, Or any car for that matter with a single spec of Rust before.

-Sam

 

[SHOspazz92]

You know, The more I think about it....The more I think I'm probably going to take it somewhere.

I've never done any kind of Body work and on a car this nice, I really don't want to screw it up, That's for sure. So what do you guys think, What would a shop charge for a repair like this?

-Sam

 

[Bob Gervais]

Depending on the severity of the rust (sometimes it's worse underneath than it seems on the surface), figure somewhere between 200 and 500. Most body shops should be able to give you a fairly accurate quote.

They're most likely going to have to mix more paint than they need, ask them if you can have the rest for touch ups.

 

[93rev2sev]

Shop it around. Get a bunch of quotes, ask what needs to be done...Hopefully you will find a body man that has worked in the rust belt.

Before you take it for quotes, remove anything you can to allow visual access to the back side of that panel.

 

[Jonny Cash]

You know, The more I think about it....The more I think I'm probably going to take it somewhere.

I've never done any kind of Body work and on a car this nice, I really don't want to screw it up, That's for sure. So what do you guys think, What would a shop charge for a repair like this?

-Sam

Only one way to find out. Really depends on who you take it to.

 

[stangeater]

lol.

We have the tools needed for a lot of repairs. Just not repairs involving rust. I've never owned a SHO, Or any car for that matter with a single spec of Rust before.

-Sam

You my friend are truly blessed!