Rust damage, please help!!!

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Splitz

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I need some advice on what to do about rust damage I have on the window frame...

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Dave Ladely

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Get a gallon of phosphoric acid (the active ingredient in Naval Jelly where it is much diluted) from a chemical supply company.
Mix 1/2 cup with very warm water and a few drops of detergent (for water wetting) and swab on the rust. The rust will go away. Sand with 400 wet and dry sandpaper. Mask the area. I would mask the entire area and spray over the non-rusted areas also, for uniformity and for rust protection.
Prime with black epoxy primer using a spray gun or one of those little hand sprayers (like the Preval brand) where you have a little bottle and a propellant cartridge) and spray the primer on. I use Dupont epoxy primer, which is MUCH better than the crap usually used for priming, and which will resist any future rusting.
Then spray with Ford trim paint, small amount available through Ford parts or a paint shop, per specification.
 

SHOemup

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Dave Ladely:
Get a gallon of phosphoric acid (the active ingredient in Naval Jelly where it is much diluted) from a chemical supply company.
Mix 1/2 cup with very warm water and a few drops of detergent (for water wetting) and swab on the rust. The rust will go away. Sand with 400 wet and dry sandpaper. Mask the area. I would mask the entire area and spray over the non-rusted areas also, for uniformity and for rust protection.
Prime with black epoxy primer using a spray gun or one of those little hand sprayers (like the Preval brand) where you have a little bottle and a propellant cartridge) and spray the primer on. I use Dupont epoxy primer, which is MUCH better than the crap usually used for priming, and which will resist any future rusting.
Then spray with Ford trim paint, small amount available through Ford parts or a paint shop, per specification.
I would not suggest doing this for the simple reason that there is a possiblity it can come out worse. If you've never used a spray gun before, I'd think twice about doing this. Spraying paint or even primer can be quite the trick. Getting all the mixtures right and if you want it done right, mixing in fish-eye resister. Also spraying itself can be tricky. watch out for fish eyes and orange peel if you can help it. After it is all sprayed, you're going to want to wait a few days, then wetsand and buff it. buffing it could be hard because of the rubber seal around that area. I'd just take it to a body shop and have it done if you havn't had any kind of experience in this area. good luck with whatever you decide to do!
 

jthomas68

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Your pics didn`t come thru,but i assume you`re talking about the black trim that runs around the windows with the rubber on it.Those parts come off the door,and are replaceable.They are part of the window track,and are a high rust item,it`s not just you.
 

jthomas68

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Those are the parts i was talking about.I have no idea of a cost,but i don`t think they are overly expensive.
 

munkee

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To remove the window tracking from the rear door you have to roll the window down, then slip a screwdriver under the strip at the bottom rear edge of the window on the inside of the door to pop it loose from the door. Then carefully work your way around the window edge pulling the track off by hand. Be careful, you can pry a little but it is easy to bend. The front door is pretty much the same except the tracking goes down into the door further and connects to a brace. You will probably have to remove the door panels up front so you can reach in to remove it. I would check with a local boneyard for pricing. You can use the tracking from the same year slo if you had to also. My old slo had chrome trim that I am transferring to my project sho. If you can't find anyting, I will probably have some in good shape that I will sell pretty cheap. Good luck.
 

pjtoledo

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Splitz:
I need some advice on what to do about rust damage I have on the window frame...

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picture_010.jpg
Those parts are not repairable, need to replace. The bulges are huge piles of oxide, a white powder that used to be some kind of metal. If you were to open one of those bulges you would find almost no metal left in there. The hardest part of replacing them is removing the inner door panel. The attaching points almost always break off until you get some practice in, must also use the correct tool.

Perry Toledo,Ohio
 

Dave Ladely

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epoxy primer resists fisheye and so does urethane, as long as the metal is clean, wiped with acetone. Not like the old enamel and laquer days! Practice on something similar. Its very easy to spray such a small area, mask it well, spray just enough to cover, watch out for runs.
 
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