How the rotors are used (heating and cooling cycles) has a great deal to do with the tendency to warp. You can use higher quality rotors or break in the rotors properly by heat cycling them. Another way to prolong the time before warpage is to properly torque the wheel lugs on our floating rotors. I believe the torque spec is 80-100 lb-ft. You should keep it in this range and never leave an air-gun installed lug in place without properly retorqueing it. I have worked on SHOs where the lugs are so tight that I have sheared 1/2" drives trying to get them off. I can apply a great deal of torque to an 18" wrench and some of these lugs have cost me tools. I have broken two 1/2" drives in the last few months on lug nuts. Ninety lb-ft of torque can be applied with one hand on the wrench. It shouldn't take an Arnold to get them off.
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Scott
1991, 253K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
Class II hitch, Silver award at the SHOklahoma Car Show