Rod bearing help please

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SLoW_SHO_316

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I have a kind of emergency on my hands...

So I've been noticing that the ticking my car makes at 1/4 throttle around 2500-3000 rpms has been getting worse. The car still runs fine, drives fine and all, but there is a slight knocking/ticking noise. I'm positive it's the rod bearings. At idle the oil pressure light will sometimes flicker.

Question, should I even bother trying to fix the rod bearings or is it new motor time?

Thanks in advance...

-Nick
 

MorpheusGPR

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Can he swap the bearings out like we have been talking about? Once you hear it its too late? If so I might get started on mine sooner then I thought to be safe!

I will use the puddy trick though, once I find some.
 

SuperchargedSHOguy

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MorpheusGPR said:
Can he swap the bearings out like we have been talking about? Once you hear it its too late? If so I might get started on mine sooner then I thought to be safe!

I will use the puddy trick though, once I find some.

normally the crank is messed up and it is not worth removing it and having it machined.

rod bearings are really not that hard, just don't wait till its too late...then again swapping in a 3.2 is not that bad of a thing for the MTX guys :)
 

SLoW_SHO_316

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Listen, the knocking/ticking is only noticable under 1/4 throttle at certain rpms. The thing that got me today was when the oil pressure light flickered.

Would I be totally wasting my time by swapping bearings, or is it worth a shot?
 

Jonny Cash

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If I was you, Id pull that motor, and see whats really going on in there.

Sorry to hear that, but Id say put a 3.2 on a stand, and just build it until the current motor goes to crap.

Unless you ever thought of rebuilding it.
 

Jonny Cash

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SLoW_SHO_316 said:
Listen, the knocking/ticking is only noticable under 1/4 throttle at certain rpms. The thing that got me today was when the oil pressure light flickered.

Would I be totally wasting my time by swapping bearings, or is it worth a shot?


Its definitly worth getting some new bearings, and start ripping it apart. Why not?? Your not junking or selling it right?
Youll know right away if you need a new block or not.

Worst case scenario is pulling the motor, and replacing it with a better one that you actually know whats going on inside of it..lol
 

Ishodu

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You may as well drop the oil pan and take a look at them. No need to go nuts right away.
 

SLoW_SHO_316

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Well I just let the car warm up for awhile and listened. I couldnt hear anything, OP light was not flickering. I revved it a few times and I can hear the ticking coming from the bottom end. Hopefully no damage was done and I can salvage the motor by replacing the bearings before its too late. If it's not too late already.
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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I wouldnt run that motor, AT ALL, until you drop the pan and take a look.

Seriously, park it until you have the bearings in hand to do the job.

Also, it is no surprise that you do not hear much with the motor cooled down. The oil is much thicker.
 

SuperchargedSHOguy

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there was someone on here recently that had similar problems and the bearings and crank were shot
 

SLoW_SHO_316

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So when I rip into it, what are the tell tale signs that I'm screwed?

Also, if I am screwed, but I go ahead and install the new bearings anyway since I'm in there, about how long could I drive the car before it's not driveable?
 

SuperchargedSHOguy

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look for groves in the crank and loose bearing caps. Hopefully a bearing is not spun after removing the cap(s),if so the crank is shot for sure

The new bearings will go out in a few miles if the origional ones you pull are shot
 

SLoW_SHO_316

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SuperchargedSHOguy said:
look for groves in the crank and loose bearing caps.

The new bearings will go out in a few miles if the origional ones you pull are shot

Alright thanks, I guess all I can do now is just see what happens.
 

SuperchargedSHOguy

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definitly do not drive it, you will only make it worse, but be prepared for the worse so then if it does check out okay, you can celebrate :)
 

SASHO91

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there are some pics on the forum with chewed up RB's in them....
how long? about 5 mins. if the the crank is screwed..

what i would do nick, is just get in there. See what is going on, and see how bad it is.
That i what mine was doing, slight knocking at 1/4 throttle...
i pulled them, and sure enough, they were about to go...

maybe if its not to late, you can put some new ones in and be done with it.

I suggest not driving the car at all, or very little until you have changed RB's.
mine were chewed up badly. but luckly these forged cranks can take a beating...

dont go out and buy a 3.2 yet... pull the pan, and see whats going on. if its shot... well, then you know what you have to do....

good luck.
 

DVJ38

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I would deffintly spend the $60 or so for the rod bearing kit. I got mine from RCM. But I got to them too late. I replaced them anyways and hoped to keep it together for a while. They still knocked after the install, but not nearly as bad. I have put on about 7k and the knock has gotten worse. Time for a 3.2. Damn

Even if the new bearings don't fix it, it'll give you enough time to get money and build a 3.2 swap, so when it's getting bad again you can just swap engines.

I think you should measure those cylinders though while you're in there. ;) Could already be a 3.2 with all that power you're making.
 

SHOMurph

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even if the crank is scored one thousands it is toast.

TexanTony just tried to fix someboy's car with one thousands score on the crank. New bearings didn't work and the motor was done/still knocked. He had to rebuild the motor for him.

As I've said before: everybody on this board should have their rod bearings done.
 

DHMag

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a spun bearing wont knock at mid RPMs only. it will knock loudly at idle and slowly go away as RPMs are increased. it doesnt take long to drop the pan to inspect.
 

bmcreider

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Hmmm...

I never even noticed an OP light on the 91, it was toast.

I did get an OP light on the bean, it was definitely toast.

I think it's too late, personally but I could be wrong
 

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