Ripped fuel line (3rd time)

[Joe'sSHO]

Ok this has now officially become an on-going problem. The fuel line is getting a rip/tear in it right up near the passenger side front tire (midway up where it starts curving toward the engine; or inside the metal bracket holding the lines to the body if that is any clearer). Initially I had a local shop put a patch in it which I thought would hold and after 400 miles it split open again. The second time it happend I had a piece of rubber hose put in thinking that whatever it was that caused the tear/rip in the first place wouldn't be able to split the thicker rubber. Now, its happend a third time, albeit 2000 + miles after the section of hose was installed but still, it did rip again. I've yet to get completely under the car and see if it was the hose that tore or the line itself but its coming from the same area. Now, the only thing I can think of that would cause a rip/tear in the line three times is the fact that I have all solid mounts (mm and trans mount) and am still using subframe bushings that are absolutely destroyed. I recently looked at the rear sfb's when my y-pipe was being installed and they're very, VERY, badly worn. I'm thinking maybe the solid mounts don't allow the engine to move much and the subframe is moving and stretching the lines enough to tear them? This is the only idea I have so if anyone has had a similar experience or has a more plausable theory I'd greatly appreciate hearing about it, as I'm not looking forward to ever having to patch the fuel line during the winter in my school's parking lot again.

 

[Slo-Sho]

No no, that's a good theory. If $ is an issue you can get the Gen III rear SFB's for cheap from a yard or even new. I have them on both of my SHO's and I absolutely love them.

 

[Joe'sSHO]

It's more of an issue of location. Here at school I can't change out the SFB's so I have to wait till summer to do it along with a clutch that I need as well. I was just hoping the patch would hold up till then but obviously it didn't. My theory sounds good though? I can't think of anything else that could be ripping the lines. Thanks for the imput and as always, more is better!

 

[Bizzy]

Bad motor mounts will allow the motor to rock forward and backward in the engine bay. Bad subframe bushings will allow the motor to flex on a horizontal plane in the engine bay. I would say that it is feasible that this flexing of the motor is allowing something, whether it be a bracket or the motor itself to catch the line on something else and rip it or pinch it to a point where it ruptures the line.

You might want to double check the area where the line goes to see if there's a bracket around that area that could be doing this. You might also find that you could some how tie the line back a bit to help prevent it from being caught again as quickly. Do address it quickly though, a ruptured fuel line is very dangerous for obvious reasons, but bad subframe bushings are also quite dangerous.

Good luck with it, keep us posted on how things turn out.

 

[Joe'sSHO]

The more I think of it, it seems like the metal bracket that encases the lines (near the passenger side front wheel) could be causing the lines to rip. Would I be able to leave this bracket off and just zip tie the lines or would they hang too low?

 

[sdpatt]

Until you visually inspect the damaged area, you are just guessing. Get under there and take a long, hard look at the problem area. Look for clues and the method of breakage. Only after you determine the cause of the breakage can you prevent future problems.

 

[Bizzy]

Another idea also would be to allow someone else to turn the wheel back and forth while you watch the area from above. At least that way you can see what's going on or if the bad subframe bushings is the culprit or not.

As for letting something hang down that should be in a bracket. All I can say is that if something, whether it be a hose or a wire harness, is in a bracket then it's there for a reason. Letting it hang loose or putting a tie on it to hold it back is only solving the symptom. You must correct the problem for the car to be 100% safe again.