Riddle Me This....

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What would cause this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcINaMqlyNY

what i have done:

checked for vaccum leaks,found none
replaced all coil packs
replaced all spark plugs
reinsulated rear cp harness
checked for intake leaks, found none
unplugged and plugged back in just about every sensor i could find, no change
new fuel injectors

what i haven't done...(your answer here)

thanks i have been trying to figure out this thing since last summer, i am at the end of my rope any help or suggestion would be greatly appreciated
 

russrad25

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Reset ECU....disconnect battery for about 5-10 minuutes to let it relearnt he idle curve. Clean MAF at the same time.
 

rick-ng

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If that doesn't help clean or repalce the idle control valve...
 

SHOZ123

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Is that with the AC off? The idle will bump up 50 rpms or so when it cycles. Still it looks to high as the idle speed should be around 700. May be the TPS too as well as the other suggestions.

The TPS is pretty easy to test with a voltmeter. It should be below 1V when the key is on, engine off.
 
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the a/c is off, i unplugged the maf there was no difference and no code, so im wondering if it just doesnt work, does anyone close by got one for me to test my theory?
 

SHOZ123

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What happens when the engine is warmed up and idling and you unplug the IAC?
 
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nothing really happens after awhile it will die, but cant tell if its because of unplugging the IAC, cause it will die either way and set off a code
 

SHOZ123

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The engine should die immediately if the IAC is unplugged. It is leaking air. Or you have a vacuum leak.
 
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Ron1n

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what did you measure when you check your vacuum? what did you vacuum gauge read? also have you tried checking the voltage at the CKP sensor? make sure that is within spec as well.
 

93rev2sev

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If there's no codes, I'd bet that's one of the following:

Vacuum leak


What's causing the vacuum leak could be as simple as a cut hose or as bad as a slipping cam gear.

I think it's time for a compression test based on what you've already done.
 
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SHOZ123

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Try this. When the engine is fully warmed up and sitting in drive with the brake on/ engine running, quickly turn the steering wheel. What happens to the idle RPM and how quickly?
 
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i will try that and let you know what happens

i did a compression test and they were all consistant, a little low but all the same
 

93rev2sev

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Glad to hear compression is consistent. I hope you're welded. I just imagine that sprocket walking 5-7 degrees and causing the idle to wander around a bit
 
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no, cams are welded, by kirk. so i did the trick with the car on and turn the wheel and nothing happened. but i did encounter this, now i knew the battery was dead but i got it charged a little bit and this is what happened any ideas, im not an electrical person.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5DB80BIbHs

also on a side note, not sure if it has anything to do with this whole problem but i will throw it out there to see if someone can help with a fix.

the button on my shifter is stuck, i can push it in with ease, but it wont pop back out, i have to hit the top of the shifter a few times for it to pop out, i sprayed a little wd40 in there but to no prevail


Update: battery is fully charged(its a brand new battery). Did the same thing will not turn over but just click, and speedo jumps, here is the weird thing. I heard some humming coming through the radio speakers(the radio is off) so i started playing with the cd player, everytime i would switch tracks, i wouldnt get a new song but the blower(for defrost) would kick on for a few seconds. this would happen everytime, i have no idea where to begin if its electrical

i want to try to change out the pcm to see if that could be the problem, anyone have a good working extra one? i mean could a bad pcm cause all this?
 
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93rev2sev

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If you take that battery to another car, I'll bet you will find out that it's dead.
 

nomov8sho

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This sounds a lot like some of the strange stuff my wife's '97 was doing a little while back right before the alternator had a melt-down. When I took a close look at the wiring I ended up finding that the big ground wire from the megafuse was partly melted, and the long alt-to-megafuse wire was brittle and in bad shape. Replaced both along with the alt., and the car is great now. I'm guessing this is at least partly what killed the alternator. Is your battery light coming on? Also, See if your lights dim at idle and brighten when you give it some gas. Both of these were symptoms, too. Hope that helps.

-Josh
 

SHODWN

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Battery is dead.. Put a new one in the car Pete.. then see how it idles.. I have one in the shop now that was doing this and it was the battery..

get a multimeter and test the voltage on the battery, Ill bet you find its low and Ill also take a bet that the alt is dead of the alt fuse is blown..

if you check it and its at 13+ volts, then unplug the IAC, if it dont die with in 5 seconds then you have a vacumm leak, or the valve is clogged in the open position..

Close? really? 1 hr away is to far for you?
 
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yeah kirk my bad your not too far.

i know the battery is not holding a charge. kinda ****** me off just bought the damn thing at the beginning of the summer, hope i can get a refund without receipt.

when the car is actually running the multimeter says 13.30 so the alt. is working, and after the battery charger says fully charged the the battery alone will only read 7. so it is probably far beyond charging capabilites.

i will get a new battery and see what happens, if it doesnt work. ill bring it up to you kirk

oh btw when i unplug the IAC it does die within 5 secs.
 
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