Resolving the 2 yr old no start problem

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doclees

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For those that have helped and for those that might have or will have this problem. I have had a no start problem for the past 2 + years. The symptoms has been the same and goes like this: Everything works fine and starts fine. Then for no rhyme or reason I go to start and I get some clicks or nothing. Try to jump it and nothing.

The first change was the starter. The second LLT from Advance auto. It was bench tested and turned good but started to smoke after 5 - 8 tries. Advance said that was bearings going. Engine was leaking oil on it. Changed it and all was good for many months.

Next time I thought it was the key lock switch. The key seemed to jam when turning it. Changed it without an change. Put back the old one and all worked fine. I think the plastic column cover had lost a screw and was binding the key.

A couple of months later the problem returned. I had bought a new ignition switch from the last time and put it in. Good for a few days.

I would pull the neg battery cable and put it back on and it would sometimes start. Up until this time I did not have a Alternator light. Now it started to come on over 1500 rpm. I had the system checked and was only putting out 12.5 v. Was convinced by the Advance auto folks that it was a bad Alternator. Changed it. Was going to get the old one bench checked but forgot. Pulled apart the clamp on type battery cable heads. The positive one had lots of green/white oxidation in the strands. Put it together and all seem real good for a week. New Alt putting out 14.5v.

Yesterday problem returns. I have been keeping my tools with me. Pulled the positive cable, cleaned the fibers again and it starts. Get home and no start. Pull positive cable again to clean and it starts. I had been looking at the cable to cable head connection all this time and had missed the black lead oxidation on the battery terminal and clamp connection. I have sanded this mud off and it has started for the past 8 times.

I do not know what has caused what. Maybe the battery cable has caused enough resistance to stress alternator and starter. Maybe the alternator was just a coincidence with 176k miles on it. I assume the following: all the problem fixes required removing the battery cables. Usually I pull both because how the neg cable can fall back on the post. I usually just wipe the posts off at this time. I think I have been cleaning it just enough to get connection for a time. I have new cables and will install tomorrow. If this doesn't do it I'm calling in the priest.
 

Mr95Gl

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Replace both battery cables from starter, to battery with new terminals, and that should solve your problem. I've been dealing with this problem on my 95 (oxidized terminals) since late last week, so I'll be tackling that on my day off. You can only ever have one SHO working (barely) properly at a time, or at least thats been my luck! :nut: Good luck with yours.
 

doclees

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Glad I didn't spent that type of money. Well to follow up as I did in other threads it was my LLT palladium starter...again. I get about 10 months to a year out of these. As I was tightening the new cable to the solenoid I noticed that the solenoid was moving in its case. So now I am on my 3rd Advance auto starter in less than 3 years.
 

ilikepoultry

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that'll happen with cheap parts
after reading symptoms, it looked like bad battery connections - i've had this on both i've owned, just a little nudge and it doesn't work, then a little nudge and some swearing, and it started right up

i would recommend cranking down on the terminal to cable "bolts"
this resolved my issues with it
 

SHOMON

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no start

have you replaced the batt? you should i had an interstate killed my terminals alt. and prob. at least one starter the problem i had was over charging do to to much resitance at the batt also if the alt is under warr. replace it and the battery and at least the terminals at the same time !! i went through two alt. before i did it this way and no brolems since. also clean up your grounds ie: at the block , firewall , fender etc. a bad ground will not let the current complete its circuit causing undo stress on all the elec components.
a guy i work with had the same problems with his 95 lt1 firebird 1 alternator per year and at least one batt until i told him to replace both at once that was about a year and a half ago with no problems since
 

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