Replacing waterpump, ps pump, oil pan seals, and front main seal

[SHOitoff95]

Ok is there anything I need to know before I replace all these. I am going to do all of them at once. How long do you think it will take me. I will be doing in my autoshop class with a hoist and all the tools.

 

[shojuan]

It always takes longer the first time you do it. I'm not going to give you an estimate. I work really slow and I've never replaced the power steering pump. If you start on a friday night and give yourself the weekend you will have more than enough time without any pressure of working too fast to get your car out of there. You'll learn the most if you take it as slow as you are comfortable with. How many miles on your SHO? Since you're going to drop the oil pan anyways you might want to consider replacing the rod bearings. They're pretty cheap, easy to replace, and even if you don't really need it done it will be a good learning experience for you. Lots of success stories here on the forum from DIYers replacing those. Plus no matter how you look at it they are a wear item and they WILL wear out before your motor is ready to die. These motors like to live a long time. It's good to not be afraid of touching the stuff under the oil pan. You might have other cars where you just need to dive into that shit. Do it once on your SHO and you won't hesitate to dive in on another car if you think it's needed. While perhaps not necessary now the experience might save you a major failure on another car because you won't hesitate to look under the pan and open up those bearing caps on other cars if you hear or suspect something wrong. Something to think about.

 

[Yamaha V6]

May as well install those Stage 2 cams waiting in the wings at the same time. You're going to pull everything off the engine front to get to the front crank seal. That means the t-belt is coming off, which has to come off for the cams. Remove the cam gears, the rear metal timing cover, and you're able to proceed with the cam swap. Otherwise, you're going to be repeating the labor later.

Changed your Cam & Crank Position Sensors lately? Have to remove the cam sensor for the cam swap.

Going to be pulling the oil pan, consider changing the oil level sender & gasket. O2's? If you're pulling the Y-pipe for the Oil Pan, and you need O2's now's the time to frig with that too (especially on an ATX).

Good luck!

 

[projectSHO89]

Make sure you have extra Teflon seals for the PS lines. They are easy to mess up. They're only about $0.50 each at the Ford parts counter. Do NOT use Teflon tape.

New cam seals would be a good idea at this time, too, even if you don't get to the cams themselves.

A new set of WP mounting O-rings is a good idea, also, as is a new lower radiator hose (NAPA 7311 works and is cheap).

Timing belt, CPS, etc are good ideas for the same time.

Steve

 

[SHOitoff95]

I have 128,000 miles on my car. Wow looks like I will need to get some more parts first before I start on it. Well I got it down starting monday at school so hopefully I can get all that done by friday.

 

[SHOitoff95]

Would it be easier to just wait on the front crank seal until the cams go in and just do the waterpump, power steering pump and the oil pan seals? That is what I'm thinking because I don't want to be without a car for too long.

 

[SLOSHO89]

How about just the oil pan seals? and maybe the P/S pump?

I have never done a P/S pump. So I'm not sure exactly how much stuff you would have to remove.

If your going to wait on the front seal you should probably wait on the water pump. Because you have to take off the timing belt for both. Do you have a good set of shims for the stage 2 cam swap?

 

[SHOitoff95]

Yea I have a good set of shims for the cams. Well the water pump is the main thing I'm replacing, its ******* coolant out pretty good. So if I'm doing the waterpump then I should do the front main seal also.