Replacing valve cover gaskets

[bubbs609]

So, im pretty sure this needs to be done so last night I removed the entire top of the intake manifold off (surprisingly, cuz I am no mechanic). As i was removing all of the vacuum lines and hoses, I noticed that the throttle body was extremely dirty and also one of the hoses that comes from there had coolant in it. Is this normal?

Also, now that I have that whole upper intake off the car, other than changing the valve cover gaskets, what else should I replace/clean? Inside the holes are really dirty and looks like there is oil in them too right along with the spark plug wells. Now that Im in there pretty deep, I want to get the best performance possible since she doesnt really have the get up and go like she should.

I hear that the cam seals should be replaced? Where exactly are they?

Should I clean the injectors maybe??

Help me get this car to fly like she should!!

 

[Fordlover96]

Clean the throttle body with some throttle body cleaner and a lint-free rag. Pretty straight forward. Open the throttle butterfly, spray a little, and wipe that carbon away. Yes, there are 3, iirc, coolant lines to the throttle body. Totally normal.

When you change the valve cover gaskets, the six round seals go on the valve cover. They stop the oil from going in the spark plug wells. So if there's oil in the spark plug tubes, thats probably the problem. Might want to clean the spark plug boots out as well with some electrical contact cleaner.

Cam seals are behind the timing belt sprockets. Not something that you usually do with the valve covers. It requires removal of the timing belt, water pump, timing belt idler and tensioner, and rear timing belt cover.

Yes? I've only had just added some fuel additive in my fuel tank. That can be done at anytime.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

You would also want to do the valve adjustment which is part of the 60k: SHO Source

 

[bubbs609]

Glad to hear the coolant near throttle body is normal and not a blown head gasket. Also glad to hear that replacing valve cover gaskets and seals will fix the oil on the plugs and in the wells. Maybe I should get new plugs and wires just to be on the safe side and hopefully gain a lot of horse power I've been missing out on.

I'm going to check the cam position sensor and see if there is any oil by the connection. If dry I'll leave it alone. Just want to fix and replace everything possible since I've never had the engine torn down so much.

 

[bubbs609]

What is all involved in a valve adjustment? I actually have both sets of the valve stem seals. I've also seen the YouTube video on how to replace those on this motor and I know for a fact I myself wouldn't be able to do that on my own. Oh well, wonder if I can find some local volunteers that could help with that.

Really love this forum. I don't get crazy looks when I ask about he'll with this car on here.

 

[rubydist]

yes, I recommend new plugs and wires, since the old ones are likely compromised due to sitting in the oil in the plug wells.

valve adjustment is primarily a matter of using a feeler gauge to confirm that the valve clearance is in the proper range. these engines very rarely need valve adjustment, so I would not sweat that.

when you put the new valve cover gaskets on, be very very very careful to get the gasket in the right place. the passenger side back corner of the rear valve cover has a tendency to roll the gasket out of place when you slide the valve cover down - check that 5 times to make sure the gasket is in the right spot before you tighten it down. if it rolls out of there, it will pour oil out of the engine at a very fast rate!

and, once the intake is back in place, make absolutely certain you have all the ground wires back in place, and that you have all the clamps on the little hoses back in place. the engine does not run without those ground wires connected, and the coolant will leak out if the hose clamps are not put back. some of those hoses are hard to get to, but you must put the clamps back on.

take your time and double and triple check your work, and you will do fine.

 

[itwonder]

+2 the above. Also, use a little RTV on the bottom of the new spark plug tube seals; it really helps prevent their tendency to leak oil into the plug wells. On the valve cover gaskets, there are a few tight corners where you supplement the gasket with a dab of RTV. I think that is covered in the 60k instructions. The wire looms on the firewall really get in the way of installing the rear cover. I tie them up and out of the way, and I've found that helps a lot. I concur with your plan wrt the camshaft seals; do not mess with them if they are not leaking. The coolant lines in the throttle body warm it to prevent icing in cold weather.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

valve adjustment is primarily a matter of using a feeler gauge to confirm that the valve clearance is in the proper range. these engines very rarely need valve adjustment, so I would not sweat that.

I have done enough valve adjustments to see hat for some it is needed. Not every SHO needs it but some do. Maybe due to oil type, oil change interval, driving type, etc...

I have done some engines where I have replaced almost every shim.

Also since I handle the SHO Source shim kits I do have people replacing quite a few shims.

 

[tery]

what a great forum!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Devin]

Also, when reinstalling the intake, check the metal intake gaskets for chipping of the coating. If you see bare metal they need to be replaced. Though it is said that you can slap a coat of paint on them, but if available you should probably get new ones.

 

[bubbs609]

I have taken off the valve covers and def can see where there has been an oil leak. Cannot get over the fact that they cost over $100 for just the gaskets!!

As far as the valve adjustment, what exactly am I adjusting? I bought some feeler gauges from the parts store last night along with some carb cleaner to get all the oil and **** cleaned out of the tubes.

I pulled a couple of my plugs and they had a reddish tint to them at the spark end. What could that be from?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

I have taken off the valve covers and def can see where there has been an oil leak. Cannot get over the fact that they cost over $100 for just the gaskets!!

As far as the valve adjustment, what exactly am I adjusting? I bought some feeler gauges from the parts store last night along with some carb cleaner to get all the oil and **** cleaned out of the tubes.

I pulled a couple of my plugs and they had a reddish tint to them at the spark end. What could that be from?

To do a valve adjustment you would be checking the gap and if it is too large you put in a thicker shim. This is why you need a shim kit.

 

[bubbs609]

Checking the gap between which parts? Thicker shim? I will have to google all of these. Does anyone have any pics they can post to show me what to gap?

 

[sperold]

Your first tip-off concerning valve adjustment is.... do you hear any clatter from the valve train? If there is excessive wear, you will hear it.

 

[rubydist]

checking the gap between the camshaft lobe and the shim that sits on top of the valve.

if it does not clatter, then just ignore it. I have never seen one get too tight during use, and out of all the engines I have had apart, only 3 valves have needed to be adjusted to stay in spec. I have even changed cams without having to change shims!

 

[Devin]

From what I've seen is that if properly oiled they don't wear appreciably

 

[LOUDSHO92]

A how too: shophoenixproject.com

The point of the 60k is to avoid the clatter and prevent damage.

 

[bubbs609]

It says gen 2. Would this be the same for my gen 1?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Yes it is the same.

 

[Devin]

Over $100 for the gaskets? Where? RCM has them for $77. Even Napa has a set for (barely) under $100.