Replacing fuel pump??? How Hard???

[DigDeez]

***New Minor Developments***

Just came from grounding the fuel pump test pin on the EEC to the negative battery terminal and the pump still didn't initiate, assuming I did it the right way.

However, I then proceed to tap on the IRCM harder and harder and by the 4 hit, there came a constant noise (hard to describe, but a dull slightly rough winding-like noise) coming from this area (couldn't been the IRCM), and the noise got a bit more slightly intense and it was a constant noise. I then proceeded to turn the key to off and the noise went away. I couldn't get the noise back though. The fuel pump still not priming.

Like I said previously the IRCM is making the click noise it's suppose to make when the key is turned to the on position, and about 1.5 seconds after that click, there is another slighter click that comes from the drivers side between the wheel and the engine area.

Does that tapping of the IRCM and what it did means that it should be replacded? Where to buy? Cost?



Thanks, again



Also, I forgot to mention that when this noise started, I immediately began to smell fuel, but the pump still didn't prime!!!

 

[Rockledge]

It doesn't sound like you've broken out the multimeter yet. These are instructions for testing the FP circuit:

(1) Turn the ignition switch to RUN.

(2) Ground the FP TEST pin. This should energize the FP relay in the relay module, turning on the fuel pump.

(3) If while grounding the FP test pin the pump does not run, then using a multimeter, measure at pin 5 (PINK/BLACK) of the IRCM/CCRM:

(a) If measurement at pin 5 is battery voltage, go to the trunk and get access to the inertia switch. Measure both sides of the switch:
- If battery voltage is on both terminals, either there is a wiring fault to the pump or the pump is defective.
- If voltage is present on only one terminal, the switch is open. Either reset it or replace it if resetting it does not work.

(b) If no voltage was measured at pin 5 earlier, ground and remove the jumper from the FP test pin several times while listening for any clicking from the IRCM/CCRM:
- If clicking is heard, either the relay is defective or there is a wiring harness fault in the FP power supply circuit to pin 12 of the IRCM/CCRM.
- If no clicking is heard, check the 60A fuse "COOLING FAN" in the engine compartment fuse box.

 

[DigDeez]

Thanks!!!

As far as #2, I attempted that last night, and nothing happened....will try again. I took a piece of threaded wire and stuck it through the fuel pump test pin and the other end I stuck into the negative battery post. The pump wasn't heard.

As far as #3, I don't think that there is a pink/black wire going into the relay. I think I read another similar post that stated that there isn't one for the 93atx....that it was yellow. I'll go track that thread down. Yeah, I'll go and buy a meter now.

As far as #3a, I'm assuming that I should measure the voltage in the two wires that connect to the inertia switch. I'll do this also Thursday morning.

As far as #3b, I may have ran down my battery a bit from all the trying to get it started, so I'll first test for voltage in the battery. However, how do I know which relay pin is which? On one side (left) it has only 7 pins, and the other side has all of them (12). I'm assuming this is the way it's suppose to be.

All fuses, both under the hood and inside the car have been all checked and they are fine. The cooling fan is working completely. It initates everytime I test codes.

Now, as I mentioned previously, there is a click of the relay when the key is turned to the on position, but I know you're saying that it should click when I'm grounding the fp test pin. Should the ground wire be wrapped around the post and screwed on tightly with the cable wire, or is it just a matter of touching the post with the wire?

Question? What does anyone think about the noise I mentioned earlier coming presumably from the relay after I hit it a few times while the key was in the on position? This definitely wasn't right for it to do that, I know, right?

Much appreciated. I definitely want to post a conclusion on this since most threads regarding the fuel system mostly don't have a conclusion.


Getting closer..............

 

[DigDeez]

Also, I forgot to mention that when the noise from tapping on the IRCM began, I immediately began to smell fuel. Maybe that just mean that the fuel injectors are working. I guess they could still be leaky though?!

 

[Rockledge]

Also, I forgot to mention that when the noise from tapping on the IRCM began, I immediately began to smell fuel. Maybe that just mean that the fuel injectors are working. I guess they could still be leaky though?!

I wonder if it will start when you hear the noise and smell the fuel. To me that sounds like the pump might be engaging intermittently while you are doing the tapping on the relay which, if true, might pressurize the system enough to at least start the car. It would probably help also to be able to watch the readings on a fuel pressure gauge while this is occuring.

When I had fuel pump circuit problems I was able to start and run the engine while I had the FP test pin grounded, so in my case the pump would indeed engage. FWIW, it sounds like you are grounding yours properly, so the pump should be running.

The fuel injectors shouldn't be allowing any fuel into the cylinders unless the engine is either cranking or running. But if the pump isn't running and the fuel system isn't pressurizing, which seems to be the case here, then the injectors don't even come into play.

And another thing, I'm pretty sure that the wire leading from the relay to the intertia shut-off switch to the fuel pump is Pink with a Black Stripe (PK/BK). I don't know why Ford would change it around to Yellow only on the '93 and no other years. My '93 Ford EVTM shows it to be a PK/BK wire, as well. Moreover, on all three of the Fords I own, the same wire (i.e., power to the pump) is PK/BK.

 

[DigDeez]

Yeah, you're right about the wiring colors.

Had to have the battery charged first; but, when I just took off the IRCM again, the gray plastic was cracked down the center on the top and the bottom where it connects to the wiring harness. Don't know if I did that while screwing it back on, or if it stems from the noise I described earlier.

Anyhow, to put the battery back in and test with the meter.

 

[DigDeez]

CAR STARTED!!!

I'll post more later when time presents itself.


The SHO survives another repair.........til' next time.........

 

[DigDeez]

Final Call!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The Solution!!!!!!!!!!

O.k. I spoke too soon. One day of the car sitting, and it didn't start up again.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

However, I replaced the ICRM box, and all is good again. No gas smell within that last two days. I guess this box was the main problem within my fuel system problem I was having. But, before I replaced that ICRM box, I had replaced the sender? in the fuel pump, and replaced the fuel shutoff switch in the trunk.

I guess it's stil good I replaced the fuel pump because now it sounds much better. I don't think anything was ever wrong with the shutoff sensor but hey, it was only $20.

Those ICRM boxes are univeral for all Taurus'; that's what the Ford guy told me, so I went to a u-pull-it junkyard and unscrewed the box from a like 91 Taurus GL. The numbers didn't match up, but my car is back on the road again. That ICRM almost came at a 5-finger discount though, but it only ran me $25.00, a discount of $135 that Ford was asking for it!

Thanks to all for helping this sometimes hapless DIY'er take care this problem. :corn: