Replacing fuel pump??? How Hard???
- Thread starter DigDeez
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SASHO91
Zoom Zoom
not too hard... there is a write up on www.shophoenixproject.com ... IIRC thats the right address...
you basically take the back seat out, cut an access hole, very carefully.... and pull the pump straight up... he gives you all the measurements as well.
you basically take the back seat out, cut an access hole, very carefully.... and pull the pump straight up... he gives you all the measurements as well.
justin mccluske
New Member
carful doing that the fuel lines are up against the floor thet you have to cut i also did that mod ,my friend wasent so lucky ,he nick the fuel line and didnt know it till his car was full of gas
NKPlus
New Member
Just drop the gas tank down... Its only 2 screws, 4 hoses and a plug... 
then do what ever you want...you can even clean under there... :corn:
then do what ever you want...you can even clean under there... :corn:
Rockledge
Pluggin' away
I second that.NKPlus said:Just drop the gas tank down... Its only 2 screws, 4 hoses and a plug...
roswell998
Member
NKPlus said:Just drop the gas tank down... Its only 2 screws, 4 hoses and a plug...
I 3rd that. Not that hard to drop the tank and it's better to not have cut a hole into the passenger compartment over 20 gallons of fuel in the event of a rear end collision. Others might not agree with being overly cautious, but as already stated, it's just not that tough of a job to drop the tank. Just make certain it's nearly empty by driving the fuel out or if disabled then pump it out.
O.K. I'm going with the mod route! I'm using the dremel tool w/ small cutting wheel. This looks to be a breeze, but my main concern is the sparks that come off from the cutting. Should I worry about this. Well, I did. So, I decided to continue the work Monday when there are much less cars surrounding me.
With this basic dremel tool, I've already cut about a 7" line, and I figure it'll take a total of about 30-40 to complete the cut, maybe sooner!
Again though, is there any worry with the spark coming off the cutting tool, as it relates to gas????
Thanks Allot! Had to do it myself because some mechanics didn't want to mess with it!
With this basic dremel tool, I've already cut about a 7" line, and I figure it'll take a total of about 30-40 to complete the cut, maybe sooner!
Again though, is there any worry with the spark coming off the cutting tool, as it relates to gas????
Thanks Allot! Had to do it myself because some mechanics didn't want to mess with it!
Still Issues????????????????
Well, I made the cut with a dremel tool, pulled the fuel pump out without taking off the fuel tank, however. The fuel pump still isn't priming and the car isn't turning over, not even with starter fluid. My continuous trying to start it seems to be wearing down the battery also.
It must be something electrical going on, so tomorrow I'll go and purchase one of those gauge that tell you the psi and other things related to the fuel system and charging system.
With doing this mod, it would seem that Ford would have made a door under the rear seat like I think they did for the contours to assess the fuel pump!
Any other suggestions would be great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On the fuel pump I disconnected that metal cyclical(sp) tube and replaced it with an Autozone Masters one. There was no difference after reinstalled.
Thanks!!!!!!
Well, I made the cut with a dremel tool, pulled the fuel pump out without taking off the fuel tank, however. The fuel pump still isn't priming and the car isn't turning over, not even with starter fluid. My continuous trying to start it seems to be wearing down the battery also.
It must be something electrical going on, so tomorrow I'll go and purchase one of those gauge that tell you the psi and other things related to the fuel system and charging system.
With doing this mod, it would seem that Ford would have made a door under the rear seat like I think they did for the contours to assess the fuel pump!
Any other suggestions would be great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On the fuel pump I disconnected that metal cyclical(sp) tube and replaced it with an Autozone Masters one. There was no difference after reinstalled.
Thanks!!!!!!
Rockledge
Pluggin' away
Try grounding the fuel pump pin on the EEC Test Connector, that should force the pump to run. See what happens.
There is also Steve's article on SHO FP circuit diagnosis:
http://www.superhighoutput.com/tech_view.php?id=7
There is also Steve's article on SHO FP circuit diagnosis:
http://www.superhighoutput.com/tech_view.php?id=7
shojuan
New Member
Tell that to guys that live in the rust belt!roswell998 said:
I used reinforced cutoff wheels on a dremel to cut my access hole. I flooded the area with CO2 while I was cutting for a safety measure since I didn't know exactly what to expect. It's not too hard to be *really* careful with a dremel to keep the wheel well above the lines. Don't drink beer before or during this operation!
shojuan said:
Yeah, even though it was a breeze cutting out the rectangular shape under the rear seat, it was very very nerve recking because you just didn't know what was underneath, like driplets of gas. I was very careful...even waited til most folks in my apartment complex were at work just in case I blew something up........no need to blow up somebody else's car too
.Rockledge said:Try grounding the fuel pump pin on the EEC Test Connector, that should force the pump to run. See what happens.
There is also Steve's article on SHO FP circuit diagnosis:
http://www.superhighoutput.com/tech_view.php?id=7
How do you ground the fuel pump on the EEC? I know that the fuel pump is initiated when you are running codes, but the pump isn't priming for that.
Help Needed!!!!!!!!!!!
O.k. At this point frustration and anger has definitely set in. I've used the search option and read numerous post regarding fuel pump issues, but non of them seem to have a conclusion to them, and most of the suggestions tend to go over my head....sort of like one official mechanic talking to another mechanic.....
Anyhow, there is a click that comes from the engine compartment when the key is turned to the on position. As this relates to the fuel pump, this is suppose to happen, right.
I checked to fuel shut off red button (everyone refers to it as a switch though). The button is flat and cannot be pressed down....don't know if it is suppose to be like that.
With the IRCM I took that off and I'm assuming that there isn't suppose to be a pin for all the outlets inside of it, right, because on the left side there is only 7 pins. Also, I don't seem to find a pink/black wire going into it.
I installed a D4ui about 4-5 months ago, and I think my fuel pump issues started after that, but don't know if the two are related. Also, I tried putting on a LPM to it that wasn't reprogrammed for my car, and the LPM didn't really work. Never could get the LPM reprogrammed though.
Before I go out and spend more money that I don't have to spare on a meter and fuel pump tester, I want to make sure I've exhausted all my other options.
While trying to start the car up, I can also hear this hiss/air noise coming from the accessory belt area.
Someone please give me a step by step way of getting to the bottom of this. HELP!
O.k. At this point frustration and anger has definitely set in. I've used the search option and read numerous post regarding fuel pump issues, but non of them seem to have a conclusion to them, and most of the suggestions tend to go over my head....sort of like one official mechanic talking to another mechanic.....
Anyhow, there is a click that comes from the engine compartment when the key is turned to the on position. As this relates to the fuel pump, this is suppose to happen, right.
I checked to fuel shut off red button (everyone refers to it as a switch though). The button is flat and cannot be pressed down....don't know if it is suppose to be like that.
With the IRCM I took that off and I'm assuming that there isn't suppose to be a pin for all the outlets inside of it, right, because on the left side there is only 7 pins. Also, I don't seem to find a pink/black wire going into it.
I installed a D4ui about 4-5 months ago, and I think my fuel pump issues started after that, but don't know if the two are related. Also, I tried putting on a LPM to it that wasn't reprogrammed for my car, and the LPM didn't really work. Never could get the LPM reprogrammed though.
Before I go out and spend more money that I don't have to spare on a meter and fuel pump tester, I want to make sure I've exhausted all my other options.
While trying to start the car up, I can also hear this hiss/air noise coming from the accessory belt area.
Someone please give me a step by step way of getting to the bottom of this. HELP!
SHOtimer
#2910
I would investiage further the inertia switch, the red button in the trunk. Do you have a manual? The click in the engine bay is the relay sending power to the switch which in turns sends it to the pump. So, if the pump isn't getting power it is between the ICRM (which is working) and the pump. Which leaves the inertia switch, the wiring, and the connections.
Doug
Doug
SHOtimer said:
O.k. Also, forgot to mention that the only two codes I'm pulling are 113 and 543-which is fuel pump related. And I now know that the red button is suppose to be depressed at all times.
I'm wondering if the entire fuel pump needed replaced. Only the long metal cyclincal part was replaced on the pump. The wiring on the pump all visually appeared o.k.
Thanks!
roswell998
Member
SHOtimer said:
No guarantee that the IRCM is working just because it's clicking. Look at the wiring diagram and check the voltage at the IRCM output that should be 12v when the relay is energized. The clicking could mean that the mechanical armature of the relay and coil are OK but perhaps the contacts are burned/pitted etc.
As another check, you can also check voltage at the inertia switch and if necessary at the connector to the pump when the relay is energized.
Rockledge
Pluggin' away
Run a wire from the negative battery post (or any other known good ground) and stick the other end of it inside the FP pin slot on the EEC Test Connector. The pump should run.DigDeez said:
ohfosho
ontario SHOwner
you have checked all fuses related right? and also, you have the hole cut out, and do you have a new fuel pump already? if so put it in and try it...if you have not already
Well, this new fuel pump? is now what I'm thinking about. I didn't acquire the complete fuel pump, just the long metal cyclical piece on the pump.
After reading this thread, http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=9701&highlight=fuel+pressure+regulator
...I'm wondering if this piece on th pump is the check valve that is suppose to hold the fuel pressure. If not, then I should replace the entire fuel pump and go from there, right?
Also, now that I know where the fuel pump regulator is located, there has been a gas smell coming from that area. What should be done about that? Anyone know what the fuel dampener is for?
Thanks!
After reading this thread, http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=9701&highlight=fuel+pressure+regulator
...I'm wondering if this piece on th pump is the check valve that is suppose to hold the fuel pressure. If not, then I should replace the entire fuel pump and go from there, right?
Also, now that I know where the fuel pump regulator is located, there has been a gas smell coming from that area. What should be done about that? Anyone know what the fuel dampener is for?
Thanks!
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