Repainting front bumper

[Redneck1465]

I have a 91 SHO that has kinda been my toy car for a few years but my mother had some auto issues and I am going to let her start driving it as a daily driver. The problem I am wanting to fix before she drives it is the front bumper is really flaking paint pretty bad and the paint is horrible on it. What is the best way to strip the paint so I can repaint the front bumper before I let her drive it?

 

[SHOtime2511]

A dual action (DA) sander with 120 grit paper works great for paint removal.
Just be careful to not sit in one spot and over heat the plastic bumper.

 

[shown]

You might bump that up to 150 grit at first just to be safe. Watch out for the edges, you don't want to rough them up or take them off with the machine. Buy some stock size (8 1/2"X11") sandpaper from a paint jobber (autobody supply house) and so some block sanding in the tight corners and along sharp edges. Also, I've found that 3m wet or dry in the 120 range is such an open grit that it may seem a little to course. Experiment by hand sanding some and go slow.

You will need flex additive in the paint for the primer coat and color/clearcoats. Talk to the jobbers and they will know what will work best. I did a load of bodywork in HS/college 30 years ago, and I still do a bit here and there. I know that the paint systems have changed a lot, so find out from your local jobber.

 

[93rev2sev]

I used a mouse by Black and Decker. DA sanders make my brain vibrate.

When you get to the dull black primer...stop. If you get down to the yellow thermoplastic REALLY STOP...


Here's your process:

Sand and feather the entire surface until it's 90% black primer with little streaks of yellow running through it...and maybe some color on the places that look good still...probably not too many...fill pinholes and repair cracks with bumper repair adhisive (use fabric screening to reinforce the bumper repair glue on all cracks).

Use Bulldog Adhesion promoter as directed before applying PPG 2k surfacer. Do not use flex additive (It's only used in production shops when the car won't be assembled right away. It allows the paint to remain flexible ONLY WHILE ITS STILL CURING.) It's the adhesion promotor that keeps the paint from cracking.

Use 400-600 wet or dry paper to smooth the surfacer.

Paint with PPG Shopline Base/Clear or single stage (depending on the original color).

Here's my before:


During


and after

 

[sperold]

Nice, really nice.
The car looks great, even without the body cladding.
The grille adds alot, it seems to compliment the horizontal lines on the lower part of the bumper.