Removing crank pulley, engine out of car

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LJRuddy

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I have read everywhere about people removing the crank pulley with the engine in the car but what about with the engine sitting on an engine hoist?? How does one remove the pulley?
 

Ishodu

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Use an impact or poor mans impact. Poor mans impact is to use a long breaker bar with a chunk of wood, smack the end of the breaker bar with the 4X4 or so and it will jar it loose. If not use a longer bar or put a pipe on and repeat.
 

LJRuddy

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Hmmm.... I used an impact for about 20 minutes without any luck. Guess i will attempt the same again tomorrow.
 

pjtoledo

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I've used the poor mans impact several times. I use a wrench, not a breaker bar, for better results. You need a good boxed end offset wrench, like a Snap-on XBM 1922 which is only 11 3/4" long. The key is an offset wrench, it will fit on the bolt without hitting the pulley. You need to be a bit careful, wrenches don't mix well with human face parts. Take a short piece of rope or whatever and tie it to the wrench so it can only go about a foot when it takes off flying. Use a bungee cord to pre-tension the wrench. It helps if an assistant places a broom handle on the bolt head to keep the wrench from flying when whacked. A smaller piece of hardwood works better than a large massive chunk. Velocity is the key, you need to transfer the energy of a speeding piece of wood to the wrench, not whallop the engine right off the stand. :eek: Two or three whacks should do it.
Is there still a flywheel/flexplate on the engine? If so, grab a double boxed end wrench, put a tranny bolt thru one end and into the block. Grab whatever bolt will work and put it thru the other end of the wrench and into the flywheel/flex plate to keep it from rotating.
Have fun.



Perry
 

SHO_Time

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i'm not quite in the same boat, i already have the pulley off etc, i was curious if anyones actually bought the referb crank, i purcharsed one from recon, and it has the woodrif key on the crank already, was curious if anyone's tried a crank similiar.
 

ManySHOs

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I don't see the need for a refurb crank as long as the one you have is in good shape. If you use a crank that wasn't originally matched to the rods that you have, you must have the rotating assembly balanced. (not a bad thing; I'm glad I had mine done but it will set you back $150 or so). If you keep your crank and rods/pistons matched, having it balanced isn't as necessary.

Ian
 

element913

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What I did was put 3 of the flywheel bolts in (all the way) and wedge a big (really big) flathead screwdriver inbetween them, have someone hold it that way while you use a breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt. Doing this did not damage the bolts in anyway when I did it, but you may have different results. If you have access to an impact gun, I would recommend that because you can loosen it without even holding the crank.

Thanks,
Mike
 

LJRuddy

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I dont have the flywheel or anything on the back of the motor... Just the pulley. I went back to working on it last night with the impact for another few minutes. Nothing worked so I got an idea that worked for me when i tried to loosen heavily torqued bolts before... Heat. I had a friend hold a propane torch on the pulley which heated it enough to expand. After about 5 minutes, the bolt came out pretty easily. Thanks for all the help!
 

pjtoledo

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LJRuddy said:
I dont have the flywheel or anything on the back of the motor... Just the pulley. I went back to working on it last night with the impact for another few minutes. Nothing worked so I got an idea that worked for me when i tried to loosen heavily torqued bolts before... Heat. I had a friend hold a propane torch on the pulley which heated it enough to expand. After about 5 minutes, the bolt came out pretty easily. Thanks for all the help!

While playing with fire is fun, it doesn't compare to beating the **** out of a wrench,,,,Soooooo much more relaxing :oogle:
Glad ya got it out.

Perry
 

SHO_Time

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thats the problem my crank is stripped. either way the crank is nice and it came with bearings.So guess i'am pulling my pistons as well to match the new crank? or would my better option just to have the old crank machined, and use the new crank for the other engine i have on the way to rebiuld anyways?

A pic of my crank in the car atm


DSC01196
 

SonicRiot

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Word of advice: After torquing the mains, spin the assembly and make sure she rotates all nice-nice by hand. If not, you have an issue.

Good luck! :thumb:
 
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