Removed my Sax

[SHOgun_it]

Well, I just took out the sax and I replaced it with some 3" aluminum ducting. All in all, it was a pretty easy job. The bottom half of the sax was a bear to get out. There was a little bolt holding it in, and I had a hard time getting at it, big hands. But after that, it was all gravy. After I got everything back together, I started it up and I could tell the exhaust was a bit deeper. Also, the intake noise was noticeably louder. I'm gonna unplug the battery overnight, and see how it drives tomorrow morning. Was too tired to take it out tonight.

This isn't going to be my permanent intake, when I get the money that my mom owes me off a bribe, I'm gonna get a conical filter. I'm also going to build a custom box that will be insulated/heat resistant, so the incoming air will be much cooler. Also, I'm going to try and mount a duct right in the middle of the front spoiler, to force more air in. The setup I'll be doing will be very similar to this one. It'll be a nice, clean, well-done install. Also, it'll be quite a bit cheaper than the SHO Shop (if they're still around?) one was. When I get around to it, within the week, I'll do a write-up with pictures, and post it up here. Stay tuned! Pics will be coming around later this week....

 

[shoteen95]

Cool, I'd like to do this on my moms old 98. Her car's completely stock and seems a little tame. I'm used to hearing the secondaries on my 95 very clearly at 4k, especially after I removed the outer airbox.

 

[SHOgun_it]

Cool, I'd like to do this on my moms old 98. Her car's completely stock and seems a little tame. I'm used to hearing the secondaries on my 95 very clearly at 4k, especially after I removed the outer airbox.

Yeah, if you thought your 95 sounded bad... just wait till you experience that with the V8! Oh boy, with Flowmasters and no sax, it's eargasmic!

 

[NebraskaSHO]

I removed all the tubing and loved the sound but could definately tell the car was SLOW. I cut the sax off and just have the tube run into the air box. It doesn't really sound any different than stock. I'm currently designing a tube CAI for my car. I just found some rubber couplers that I've been looking for.

 

[wuzzzer]

I removed all the tubing and loved the sound but could definately tell the car was SLOW. I cut the sax off and just have the tube run into the air box. It doesn't really sound any different than stock. I'm currently designing a tube CAI for my car. I just found some rubber couplers that I've been looking for.

If you're talking about the factory tube, that is the most restrictive part of the entire sax! The solution is to put a cone intake in the fender or do the porterized intake as outlined at www.v8sho.com.

 

[SHOgun_it]

If you're talking about the factory tube, that is the most restrictive part of the entire sax! The solution is to put a cone intake in the fender or do the porterized intake as outlined at www.v8sho.com.

Yeah, I'm going to do a combination sorta of the two. I'll do a conical intake, but it'll be in a box in the engine compartment. I'll have piping going all the way up and into the air box.

 

[Mr. SHO]

Well that's a waste of time and money. The panel filter flows just fine and isn't a restriction. Once the sax is gone, just make sure it's replaced with tubing that draws air from the fender (which you already did.) Now, if anything, just pretty it up.

Insulating the box and tubing is a waste of time and money. The intake air does not heat up to any appreciable degree from conduction through the plastic airbox or tubing.

 

[nothingtoseehere]

Essentially, throwing a cone in a completely enclosed box would cancel out the effect of having a cone. With the tubing leading to it, you are restriciting the amount of air to what is coming through the tubing. If you want to use a cone, just put it in the fender.

Otherwise the "porterized" method is your best bet and easy to boot.

 

[SHOZ123]

Yeah, I'm going to do a combination sorta of the two. I'll do a conical intake, but it'll be in a box in the engine compartment. I'll have piping going all the way up and into the air box.

A cone filter in a box under the hood will just heat up. There is not enough air flow except at WOT to keep the air from picking up heat absorbed by the large surface area of an underhood box.

If you put a cone filter in the fender be sure to block off the area that is open to the engine compartment by the front end of the subframe so as not to pull in hot air and the fender liner which is open to the wheel well so dirt and water won't be throw into that area.

Doesn't take much just some sheet plastic.

 

[MotorMouth]

I'm working on something similar to what paul has. Using a MAF adapter and some 4" exhaust tubing and a 4" conical air filter. Here is the parts.

I'm going to cut and weld the bends to get the proper geometry to fit the filter in the wheel well.

Here is a pic of the CIA partially installed.

**I'll post some more pics and a quick how to when I'm all done.**

 

[SHOZ123]

Trade you MAFs.

FWIW I have my IAT immediately before the TB. This was done to monitor temperature differences between the different types of intake materials.

Metal in the intake will absorb heat and transfer it to the intake air. Even rubber picks up heat. The silicone hose is absolutely the best I've seen so far. With 90F temps and the AC running there is only about a 3F temp rise when driving down the highway. This is 3F-10F better than the rubber hose I did have.

 

[Wess]

MotorMouth,
I attempted almost the exact same setup you did and threw the MAF reading way outta wack. The car ran way rich and ran like sh_t! I've been told the reason was most likely the curve in the pipe being so close to the MAF, throws it out of wack. My next thought was figuring out a way of relocating the MAF to a straighter section of tubing. I'd like to know how yours turns out.

 

[SHOZ123]

Anytime you change the pre MAF setup you will change the MAF curve. This is the one big thing I've found out with the tuner. Finally have it all figured out.

Bottom line is if you can't tune it don't get rid of the OEM air filter box.

 

[NebraskaSHO]

If you're talking about the factory tube, that is the most restrictive part of the entire sax! The solution is to put a cone intake in the fender or do the porterized intake as outlined at www.v8sho.com.

Realllllly... looks like I get to fix that, again.

 

[MotorMouth]

Anytime you change the pre MAF setup you will change the MAF curve. This is the one big thing I've found out with the tuner. Finally have it all figured out.

Bottom line is if you can't tune it don't get rid of the OEM air filter box.

I kind of assumed that was going to occur. My plan is to data log with the software my SCT came with also using my Innovative WB. First test it in all stock form and then test with the new intake. I'm honestly surprised that the tube makes a difference over the stock air box. The stocker is not exactly what I would consider a straight shot or a clean design by any streach of the imagination.

Just thinking out loud here but dose rotating the MAF make a difference in the readings? I was trying to figure out if re-clocking the MAF (changing the sampling tube location) would change readings.....

 

[SHOgun_it]

Anytime you change the pre MAF setup you will change the MAF curve. This is the one big thing I've found out with the tuner. Finally have it all figured out.

Bottom line is if you can't tune it don't get rid of the OEM air filter box.

Alright, so how do I tune it? I understand what you're talking about, however I don't know how to do it...

 

[Mr. SHO]

Bottom line is if you can't tune it don't get rid of the OEM air filter box.

We have a winner! The flat panel filter is there for a reason. It smoothes out the airflow and makes it very uniform across the cross-section of the MAF sensor.

The tuning Paul is talking about is software-related, not something like turning screws on the MAF. You'll need an Xcal or similar to compensate for changes to the MAF.

 

[SHOgun_it]

We have a winner! The flat panel filter is there for a reason. It smoothes out the airflow and makes it very uniform across the cross-section of the MAF sensor.

The tuning Paul is talking about is software-related, not something like turning screws on the MAF. You'll need an Xcal or similar to compensate for changes to the MAF.

Fiddlestick! I was hoping it was something I could do manually. Without having to buy something else.... Well, I guess I'll have to wait to do what I was hoping with the intake until I get an XCal or something similar. I'd rather use the money to weld my cams. Anywho, where can I get this XCal or something of the sort?

 

[SHOZ123]

What needs to be done is to monitor the WOT AF ratios and what you have commanded them to be. With the OBDII there is not much to change except the MAF curve of lbs of air per volt. There are some FI tweak numbers but not much needs done as compared to OBDI.

Basically the MAF is tuned for the stock intake coming from the factory. By modifying the intake to be freer flowing then you get more air but it is not accurately measured by the MAF. OEM commanded WOT fuel mix numbers seem really rich when looking at them but this is offset by the crappy intake.

When you open the pre MAF intake up you will need to lean out the commanded values and increase the MAF voltage curve. There are also some air adders for 2nd and 3rd gear that throws a wrench into the perfect curve too.

It can be tuned but you need a Wide Band O2 to see where you are at. Using the STFT vs LTFT numbers can get close but that is not using the WOT commanded values unless adaptive learning is disabled.

Changing the MAF orientation will affect the curve also. But it is hit and miss again unless you can see the outcome. I leave mine in the normal orientation connector pointed down. I know some have improved dyno numbers by putting the connector on top but this is just a stab in the dark, again unless you can see the change in AF ratio output.

 

[nothingtoseehere]

here

Save your money and get the cam weld