92sho16
b00sted
Would 4 gauge wire be adquet enough to relocate the battery to the trunk or would 2 gauge be needed?
relocating battery
- Thread starter 92sho16
- Start date
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Ishodu
SHO Member
I would go thicker then 2 even try 0 or 00.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Four would "probably" be okay, since you're not cranking for long periods, but I always over-build when dealing with high amperage, low voltage systems. I use 0 and 00 cable (get it from welding supply place) whenever my run is long also.
Tom
Tom
92sho16
b00sted
thank you for your quick responses. does anybody have an online source for wire? and should i run it like i would run wire for an amp or should i run it underneathe the car.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Definitely on the outside of the cabin, in a flex conduit (1/2" blue Carlon from Home Depot) tucked up where it can't be snagged. You could cable tie it I guess but I prefer to use rubber insulated "P" clamps. And if you really want to do it right, put in a circuit breaker that you can reset from the outside of the trunk area. You can get that at an RV or motorhome supply place.
Tom
Tom
I used #2 THHN that is inside two layers of split loom conduit. Wire tie it to the underside of the car. The type of battery is just as important as the wire size. Do not use a normal car start battery and be sure to put a 250A fuse on the positive battery cable. Probably want to add a 14 ga ground back to the engine block too.
92sho16
b00sted
not use a normal battery? is this so you dont have to vent the trunk? i might just buy a hawker oddessy batery and keep it up front.
Bizzy
SHO Member
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I've got a little to add to this thread in hopes of getting some good advice. My plans to move my battery to the trunk have been on hold for a little while jsut like my 3.2 swap has been waiting for all the other pieces to fall into place.
I plan on using welding wire to run from the trunk to the front of the car, and was thinking that I should prolly put one of those **** switches in the back of the car so that I can have the battery "legally" mounted in the trunk. One thing I was thinking about is what should I do about where the terminals were.
Can I run the battery leads directly to the starter and ground there next to the starter, then jsut run a single heavy Gauge wire to the fender and tie in the ground to the ECC and perhaps a few spots around the engine bay?
I plan on using welding wire to run from the trunk to the front of the car, and was thinking that I should prolly put one of those **** switches in the back of the car so that I can have the battery "legally" mounted in the trunk. One thing I was thinking about is what should I do about where the terminals were.
Can I run the battery leads directly to the starter and ground there next to the starter, then jsut run a single heavy Gauge wire to the fender and tie in the ground to the ECC and perhaps a few spots around the engine bay?
I connected my wire from the trunk to the OEM leads. This way it is reversible. I did take the battery post clamps off. I would not run a large ground wire back but maybe just a 14 ga or so.
Why I like and used THHN wire is because of it's stiffness. It is somewhat self supporting and can be bent to the position you want.
Why I like and used THHN wire is because of it's stiffness. It is somewhat self supporting and can be bent to the position you want.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
You still need the heavy ground cable back to engine (for the starter to work), to the frame (for all the lights to work) etc., etc. If you use a heavy enough wire like AWG 1 or AWG 0 or AWG 00, it's just like the battery is in the original location, close to where the juice is needed.
Tom
Tom
Slo-Sho
It wasn't me!
May I ask why it is so imperative to run the cable outside the car?? I run 4 awg wire to my amp on the INSIDE of my car. What gives? 
Dave Ladely
New Member
DO NOT use solid wire in a car. Even in boats, they are sure to use stranded wire and warn against using solid wire. 4 gauge is not thick enough as 12v causes a relatively large voltage drop with resistance, and the currents are huge compared to a house due to the low voltage for the amount of watts. check it out with electronic math! 12 v is limiting!
Welding wire is good; I used Marine 0 wire. Since it is thick, pretty hard to run inside, I ran it outside the car, underneath, inside garden hose for protection, then used marine fittings through the metal. Used Marine breaker near the car battery, a deep discharge battery in the trunk, an Optima, and used sensitive, quality marine/aircraft DC breakers in a marine panel in the trunk for each amp. Very sanitary, very hi tech, very high quality.
Welding wire is good; I used Marine 0 wire. Since it is thick, pretty hard to run inside, I ran it outside the car, underneath, inside garden hose for protection, then used marine fittings through the metal. Used Marine breaker near the car battery, a deep discharge battery in the trunk, an Optima, and used sensitive, quality marine/aircraft DC breakers in a marine panel in the trunk for each amp. Very sanitary, very hi tech, very high quality.
iselltonsofthings
New Member
Dave, I'd love to see some pics of that install if you don't mind.
Thanks. Scott
Thanks. Scott
Dave Ladely
New Member
no camera, but the marine breakers and panels are readily available; I used ones similar to "Blue sea" brandFor the life of me, I cannot understand why car freaks are still using fuses when airplanes and even boats dont, except for economic reasons in small boats. I mean, so these people still use fuses in their home panels?? Are they sheep whose minds are so conditioned by ripoff manufactures who gold plate fuses as if a Flash Gordon rocket ship is as sophisticated as the one in 2001? Can't anyone think for themselves? Can't they analyze at all? By what logic are they being led?
Very strange.
I use a Xantrex volt, ammeter, much more accurate than auto stuff.
Very strange.
I use a Xantrex volt, ammeter, much more accurate than auto stuff.
Dave Ladely
New Member
For keeping track of electrical system, will work fine in cars, much better than ordinary meters for evaluating charging system and battery condition:
These are voltmeter/ammeter combinations for DC which work well for cars; the Link 10 will fit in a 2 1/16" standard gauge panel.
Call Toll Free To Order 1- 866-477-3283 Or Order Securely Online - All Major
Heart Interface Link 10 Battery Monitor
10857
$193
Link 10 and Link 20 use sophisticated microprocessor technology to provide complete battery status information for one and two battery banks, respectively
Simple and easy-to-use multicolor displays show volts, amps, amp hours consumed, and operating time remaining. The Link 10 and 20 allow you to select Automatic, Sleep and Scanning modes and automatically calculate and display charging efficiency. The Link 20 can monitor a house bank and starting bank or two house bank batteries at the same time. By adding an optional prescaler, Link 10 can monitor single battery banks up to 500 volts.
Features
Digital Numeric Display - LED display shows numeric read out of volts, amps, amp-hours and time remaining
Easy to read multi-color LED bar graph
Splash proof panels allow for outdoor mounting and hands free operation
Displays key historical battery information such as charge efficiency, deepest discharge, and average discharge
Compatible with 12 and 24 volt DC systems
Works with any battery type
Includes DC shunt (part#84-2010-00)
Diameter (face) 2.5" (63.5cm)
One year warranty
These are voltmeter/ammeter combinations for DC which work well for cars; the Link 10 will fit in a 2 1/16" standard gauge panel.
Call Toll Free To Order 1- 866-477-3283 Or Order Securely Online - All Major
Heart Interface Link 10 Battery Monitor
10857
$193
Link 10 and Link 20 use sophisticated microprocessor technology to provide complete battery status information for one and two battery banks, respectively
Simple and easy-to-use multicolor displays show volts, amps, amp hours consumed, and operating time remaining. The Link 10 and 20 allow you to select Automatic, Sleep and Scanning modes and automatically calculate and display charging efficiency. The Link 20 can monitor a house bank and starting bank or two house bank batteries at the same time. By adding an optional prescaler, Link 10 can monitor single battery banks up to 500 volts.
Features
Digital Numeric Display - LED display shows numeric read out of volts, amps, amp-hours and time remaining
Easy to read multi-color LED bar graph
Splash proof panels allow for outdoor mounting and hands free operation
Displays key historical battery information such as charge efficiency, deepest discharge, and average discharge
Compatible with 12 and 24 volt DC systems
Works with any battery type
Includes DC shunt (part#84-2010-00)
Diameter (face) 2.5" (63.5cm)
One year warranty
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