Woodyb1
New Member
The power windows on my 94MTX SHO are inopperative, they have been ince I bought the car, everthing else seems to work fine, any ideas or tips on troubleshooting?
rear power windows
- Thread starter Woodyb1
- Start date
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i have a 94atx when i bought it both rear windows did't work either . i pulled the window motors out and fond that the gears had corrosion in them so i cleaned them up ond they have worked know for 6 months. this may be the case with yours. good luck
Frankiek3
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clean up other things like the switch while ur in there(electrical cleaning stuff)
sometimes thats the problem
the doors are easy to get into but if u want
a step-by-step, someone will do it for u (or they will copy-paste
)
sometimes thats the problem
the doors are easy to get into but if u want
a step-by-step, someone will do it for u (or they will copy-paste
)
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
All four windows not working? That would likely be a central problem such as a fuse or power lead to the driver's door window control panel. You can disassemble the switch panel in the driver's door or the local door switches and clean the contacts of the heavy gauge copper switch parts.
I work at a ford dealership and have had a little experience with ford windows. The rears recieve a ground and power through the master switch and work by reversing polarity. Often the problem is in the master window switch(driver's door) and not in those specific windows. At rest, both of the wires that lead to the motor should be grounds. Test this first! After that try to isolate the problem by using a test light to verify power and ground when you press different window buttons. You should test this with a test light because multi-meters can give false results if a wire is only partly corroded. This is kind of vague because all work a little differently. Let us know how it's going!
rangerj
Active Member
Woodyb1,
As SDPATT says, first check the fuse for the windows. If the fuse is OK remove the main window switch (gently)in the drivers door. Look up your model year wireing diagram in Bizzy's post and find the power wire to the windows.
Use a test light or meter and test for battery voltage at the main switch. If the fuse is good, but there is no power to the windows main switch, then there has to be a break in the power wire.
Between the front drivers door and the body there is a rubber accordian like tube that has the door wires in it. Pull back the rubber tube and look for a broken wire.
If there is power to the main switch, but it is not getting to the window motors, the switch is most likely corroded or worn out.
You can pull the door panels and check the individual motors by applying battery voltage to the motors. Disconnect the motor wires and apply battery voltage. With the positive and negative one way the window goes up. Switch polarity and the window goes down.
If the motors are OK, then you can apply battery voltage to the wires at the main switch to each set of window wires. If this works, then the main switch is at fault. You can try cleaning the switch, but if this does not work the switch will have to be replaced at about $35.
The individual switches at the other doors are about $10 each.
If you know someone who has a good switch you can borrow for a test, it would save you a lot of time! rangerj
As SDPATT says, first check the fuse for the windows. If the fuse is OK remove the main window switch (gently)in the drivers door. Look up your model year wireing diagram in Bizzy's post and find the power wire to the windows.
Use a test light or meter and test for battery voltage at the main switch. If the fuse is good, but there is no power to the windows main switch, then there has to be a break in the power wire.
Between the front drivers door and the body there is a rubber accordian like tube that has the door wires in it. Pull back the rubber tube and look for a broken wire.
If there is power to the main switch, but it is not getting to the window motors, the switch is most likely corroded or worn out.
You can pull the door panels and check the individual motors by applying battery voltage to the motors. Disconnect the motor wires and apply battery voltage. With the positive and negative one way the window goes up. Switch polarity and the window goes down.
If the motors are OK, then you can apply battery voltage to the wires at the main switch to each set of window wires. If this works, then the main switch is at fault. You can try cleaning the switch, but if this does not work the switch will have to be replaced at about $35.
The individual switches at the other doors are about $10 each.
If you know someone who has a good switch you can borrow for a test, it would save you a lot of time! rangerj
rangerj
Active Member
Woodyb1,
A couple of additional things came to mind. First, when checking for power to the main switch, and therefore all of the windows, the ignition key has to be in the on position (engine off).
I think that the power windows have both a fuse, and a relay. Check the wireing diagrams for a power window relay. If the fuse is OK, but all of the windows are not operative, it could be the relay!
If you do pull the door panels and disconnect the motors to test them, it would be a good idea to do a continuity test on all the window wires. That way you eliminate the wireing as a possible cause of the problem.
The switches are a contact type of switch. The contact points get a deposit build up from "arcing". The deposits can be cleaned up with a fine emory board (nail file). Be very careful taking the switch apart to do this, or you could ruin the switch. rangerj
A couple of additional things came to mind. First, when checking for power to the main switch, and therefore all of the windows, the ignition key has to be in the on position (engine off).
I think that the power windows have both a fuse, and a relay. Check the wireing diagrams for a power window relay. If the fuse is OK, but all of the windows are not operative, it could be the relay!
If you do pull the door panels and disconnect the motors to test them, it would be a good idea to do a continuity test on all the window wires. That way you eliminate the wireing as a possible cause of the problem.
The switches are a contact type of switch. The contact points get a deposit build up from "arcing". The deposits can be cleaned up with a fine emory board (nail file). Be very careful taking the switch apart to do this, or you could ruin the switch. rangerj
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