Rear Brake Job, couple questions....

[SaberSHO]

My drivers side rear brake has been sticking for a while, on and off. A couple days ago, i noticed it was sticking more and more. Not to surprisingly, the pads on it are now completly worn out and are grinding horribly. Im going to be getting new pads and rotors for both sides, and im probobaly going to replace the caliper on the drivers side. I have 3 questions:
1. If i purchase a new caliper from autozone for $35 + core, does that include new slider pins? because i assume i will probobaly need new ones of those as well.
2. From what I've read on the forums, one of the most common reasons for the rear brakes sticking are deformed hoses. A lot of people suggest the Earl SS brake lines. How hard are they to install? Do I need any special tools or connecters to install them?
3. This may sound stupid, but i will not get a chance to work on my car until later this week at the latest, but i absolutly need it to go to work tommorow. Is there anyway I can just disable the drivers side rear brake until then? I was thinking of just taking what is left of the pads out and leaving it like that, but im concerned that the caliper will then just be touching the rotor directly and still grinding. Is there anyway to take the rotor off without affecting the rim? This only has to be a temporory solution, obviously i dont want to drive around with only 3 working brakes, but the grinding is driving me nuts! i have to do about 100 mile round trip for work tommorow, and i just dont want to hear the grinding all day.

Thanks in advance for any help, especially on that last one
-SaberSHO
'95 Blue ATX

 

[HopefulSHO]

1. I don't know about AutoZone's, but the A1 Cardone rebuild calipers from O'rileys come with new slider pins. I did have to pick up a thing of lithium grease for them though. Call AutoZone and ask 'em.
On their website it says "COMPLETE WITH BRAKE LEVER, SPRING & NEW MOUNTING
BUSHINGS." I'm assuming by mounting bushings they mean the slider pins, but I'd make sure first.

2. I've replaced both rear brake lines, but I didn't bother with stainless steel ones. Stock style is fine unless you AutoX or whatever... Purchase the right size (11/12mm? I don't remember offhand) box-end wrench to help with the fitting. The brake line is painfully easy to replace, really.

3. Deal with the grinding. There's really no way to disable it short of cutting and welding shut a brakeline, I think.

 

[awb85]

The standard hoses are fine, I've replaced them on two cars. They're about $30 (or was it $50?) each where I am.

 

[92ShoOff]

Hey fellas, just did A 4-wheel brake job on my '92 today. I also had a stuck front driver's side caliper and it wore the inner brake pad down to the backing plate. I got a new caliper from AutoZone today and made the mistake of returning my old caliper for the core along with the slider pins. Got home with the new caliper and had to make a trip back to AutoZone and get my pins back. So DO keep your slider pins. Also keep your two brake line gaskets (those little copper washers when you remove the line).. the new kit comes with two new gaskets but they are a little different that the ones already on your car. use your old ones.

And there is definitely no way to disable your driver's side (or any other) caliper. If you remove the pads, the first time you press on that brake pedal the piston is going to fall out. I know you already need a new caliper anyway, but when that piston falls out all of your fluid is going to leak out with it. Then you'll be left with no brakes at all. Not good. Haha plus it'd be a mess to clean up if it happens in your garage or driveway. So by all means deal with the grinding. Use your tranny to slow you down and what's left of your brakes to get you to the stop. So definitely keep plenty of distance between you and the car in front of you to allow your tranny to slowly slow the car down. I hope that helps! Also, if you're not aware the slider pins use a T-40 (star-tip) bit. So make sure you buy one before you start the job if you don't already have one. And you can always re-use the slider pins as long as they aren't damaged (ie: stripped heads, bent, etc.).

-Andrew

 

[K-Dawg]

Stainless brake lines are a very worthwhile upgrade. They are also easy to install. If you need new lines, you might as well upgrade. You'll be glad you did.

No, there is no way to disable one of the calipers.

Those "gaskets" that 92ShoOff speaks of are crush washers and should be replaced when ever the banjo bolt is removed.

 

[92ShoOff]

There ya go, I couldn't remember the name for those little things!

 

[geoff]

Stainless brake lines are a very worthwhile upgrade. They are also easy to install. If you need new lines, you might as well upgrade. You'll be glad you did.

No, there is no way to disable one of the calipers.

Those "gaskets" that 92ShoOff speaks of are crush washers and should be replaced when ever the banjo bolt is removed.

Hi! i have to replace my brake lines on my 93 SHO mtx and when you replace the lines with the stainless, is that with the motor in or is that out?

 

[itwonder]

A sticking rear caliper may be a symptom, not the root problem. It can be evidence of a bad master cylinder or stuck rear brake load compensation valve (that attaches to the left rear control arm).

 

[jimtash]

A sticking caliper can also be because it's been on the car for so long, that the rubber seals on the bracket that seal the pins have rotted away and allowed them to be contaminated. Rear brakes rarely are serviced because they don't wear like the fronts. But it's definitely a good idea to take them apart every few years just to inspect the seals around the pins and also **** them.

I experienced a frozen pin when doing the rear brakes last year and ended up having to replace both the bracket and the caliper because one of the seals was completely gone. And who knows how many years it was like that.