rear brake bias plug
- Thread starter cyanmauve
- Start date
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SHOTIME
Giver of life
what are you trying to fix, im unsure you know what your talking about.
There is a bias block under the rear wheels mounted on the body. A lever is mounted to one of the control arms. 2 lines run in, 2 lines run out.
The actual plug is the rubber piece's under the lever. there should be two.
There is a bias block under the rear wheels mounted on the body. A lever is mounted to one of the control arms. 2 lines run in, 2 lines run out.
The actual plug is the rubber piece's under the lever. there should be two.
K-Dawg
SHO Member
I'm also not sure what you are asking. Are you talking about just removing the valves? Or bypassing and removing the whole assembly?
Mike Kopstain
New Member
I think you're all a few shades of confused. 
Plugs are blank pieces of brass stock with threads and an O ring that give full fluid flow to your rear brakes. They replace the valves that are in the block stock.
Valves are what you have threaded into the block, stock and are connected to the control arm through an arm. There is no need to remove the valve or do any modification to it, unless you are installing the plugs.
<small>[ December 16, 2003, 04:57 PM: Message edited by: Mikeys_Taurus ]</small>
Plugs are blank pieces of brass stock with threads and an O ring that give full fluid flow to your rear brakes. They replace the valves that are in the block stock.
Valves are what you have threaded into the block, stock and are connected to the control arm through an arm. There is no need to remove the valve or do any modification to it, unless you are installing the plugs.
<small>[ December 16, 2003, 04:57 PM: Message edited by: Mikeys_Taurus ]</small>
91taurisho
New Member
Where can I get the plugs at??? shrugMikeys_Taurus:
I think you're all a few shades of confused.
Plugs are blank pieces of brass stock with threads and an O ring that give full fluid flow to your rear brakes. They replace the valves that are in the block stock.
Valves are what you have threaded into the block, stock and are connected to the control arm through an arm. There is no need to remove the valve or do any modification to it, unless you are installing the plugs.
shoinoff95
New Member
www.midwestsho.com is where you will find the plugs at.
<small>[ December 16, 2003, 08:36 PM: Message edited by: shoinoff95 ]</small>
<small>[ December 16, 2003, 08:36 PM: Message edited by: shoinoff95 ]</small>
Mike Kopstain
New Member
What's a Midwest SHO?
<small>[ December 16, 2003, 11:01 PM: Message edited by: Mikeys_Taurus ]</small>
<small>[ December 16, 2003, 11:01 PM: Message edited by: Mikeys_Taurus ]</small>
K-Dawg
SHO Member
Its a midwest thing, y'all. Ain't got a clue.
He used the incorrect terminology, but it reads like he wants to remove the whole assembly. shrug
He used the incorrect terminology, but it reads like he wants to remove the whole assembly. shrug
Sorry about the confusion, what I am looking to do is allow the rear brakes to get full flow. I believe that Mikeys_Taurus hit the nail on the head as to what I am trying to do and has the part that I'd like.
With that settled, does anybody have an opinion about the effectiveness of this modification? I have stainless steel lines all around, PBR dual piston calipers with 11.6 discs on the front and PFCM R pads, and like the feel. What kind of difference can I expence these part to make?
With that settled, does anybody have an opinion about the effectiveness of this modification? I have stainless steel lines all around, PBR dual piston calipers with 11.6 discs on the front and PFCM R pads, and like the feel. What kind of difference can I expence these part to make?
Shoaz
Studly dood
The proportioning valve to the rear brakes does serve a purpose, and I'm not always sure whether people fully understand what they're accomplishing by defeating it with the plugs. The existing valve does have a lot of adjustment range, so if it isn't doing what you want you might try adjusting it first.
I take my car to the track a lot, and I threshold brake a lot, and I trail brake a lot. Once in a while under trail braking the ABS kicks in, which means that the inside rear has lifted enough that the rear brakes are making it skid. In other words, I can't use any more rear brake or I'll be hitting the ABS a lot more, which is not what you want to happen on a road course.
My car is a 95 and I have the stock wimpy solid rotors on the rear with the stock calipers and Porterfield R4-S (street) pads. I routinely take their temperature after a track session and they're not working super hard, but they're definitely doing their job. I also still have the proportioning valve, but I adjusted it a bit when I put in my adjustable control arms.
So from a performance perspective for my car on a road course, I don't need more rear brakes, and if I had them it'd be hurting me because the ABS would be engaging more often under trail braking and hard straight line braking, and that's a bad thing.
I said all that just so folks might consider whether bigger rear brakes or bias plugs are really doing what they want or not. I think it's good that they're available for those who do want them.
I take my car to the track a lot, and I threshold brake a lot, and I trail brake a lot. Once in a while under trail braking the ABS kicks in, which means that the inside rear has lifted enough that the rear brakes are making it skid. In other words, I can't use any more rear brake or I'll be hitting the ABS a lot more, which is not what you want to happen on a road course.
My car is a 95 and I have the stock wimpy solid rotors on the rear with the stock calipers and Porterfield R4-S (street) pads. I routinely take their temperature after a track session and they're not working super hard, but they're definitely doing their job. I also still have the proportioning valve, but I adjusted it a bit when I put in my adjustable control arms.
So from a performance perspective for my car on a road course, I don't need more rear brakes, and if I had them it'd be hurting me because the ABS would be engaging more often under trail braking and hard straight line braking, and that's a bad thing.
I said all that just so folks might consider whether bigger rear brakes or bias plugs are really doing what they want or not. I think it's good that they're available for those who do want them.
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