Man, you guys scare me sometimes.
The bias or limit valve plug was originated here, ritht here at TCE. First set on my wifes car back in about 95. I did this as a result of the adjustable crontol arms and the need for the removal of the drop link.
I then, and only then, stumbled upon the valve and how it worked and what happened when I bypassed it. The increse in rear brake torque was immediate. No doubt about it. BUT, when subjected to higher pressures the ABS was noticed right off. That means that under hard braking the car will lock up the rear brakes.
This mod is NOT FOR NON ABS CARS! Period. The only way this should be even considered is if the car is a track only car and fitted with the proper proportioning valves to compensated for the increase in rear line pressure.
When done to proper ABS cars it will increase the rear brake ability, however it will go into an ABS mode under extreme braking. The more you use your brakes the less effective it becomes. Huh? Yes, the more brake applied the less use the rears have to a great degree. Modest street driving (or a lot of sand bags in the trunk) the more the bypass will work. But under extreme pressure or braking, the less value this mod has.
Track use: so-so mod depending upon the front brakes in use.
Street use: pretty nice change to get some more work out of the rears.
This is NOT a Pep Boys/Checker auto parts change! The plug is a metric thread if I recall and require an o-ring to fit properly. Yes if you are a idiot you might try fitting a pipe thread plug into the valve body....but hey, it's your calipers that the chips of the cross theading are getting into. If you must, the only way to do this right is to weld the stock alum plug and re fit it into the valve body with the proper sealing ring.
Best I can offer nearly you 8+ years later.
<small>[ September 17, 2003, 12:39 AM: Message edited by: Todd TCE ]</small>
