RE: Running really hot...

[nistah]

Please After checking previous posts on this I still want to run my story by the members who know a lot for advice:

On my way home today I noticed my temp guage was indicating towards the red hash above the word normal.

I stopped at a gas station checked that the radiator fan was working (it was) then topped off the coolant which was a little low, and drove home really slow. Turned the car off and let it sit in the parking garage for 4 hours and then went and restarted it and the guage went right back to red with in one minute of start up, usually it will not even get to blue within one minute, nevermind normal.

Driveability was not affected so far and the intake on the engine did not feel hotter than normal.

I am thinking that I need to check the temp sensor and thermostat, possibly water pump for malfunction/replacement or possibly radiator?

Is this thing safe to drive down to the shop or have it towed?

any advice appreciated.


thanks,

 

[frosho]

Sounds like the temp sensor is bad. There's no way the gauge should be in the red after running for less than a minute.

 

[Ishodu]

I agree, check the 1 wire temp sender its located near the thermostat housing slightly to the rad side of the engine. Make sure the wire is good as well and not corroded

 

[SHOMON]

Just make sure you get the temp. gauge sensor not the enginge temp. sensor for the pcm.

 

[nistah]

so if it's the temp sensor

:thankyou:

would it be safe to drive it to the shop vs. tow it?
Thanks,

 

[frosho]

Yes indeedy.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Yes, as long as it's not a significant distance and you haven't noticed any leaks or the smell of antifreeze.


The single-wire lead to the temperature sensor is immediately behind the coil. Pull the wire and run a Q-tip down into the connector to see what you pull-out on the cotton. If you pull-out any crud or rust, squirt a bunch of electrical cleaner in there, and then thread-in/-out several Q-tips until they come out clean. Threading the Q-tip in/out like a screw will allow the cotton to partially follow the threads and better clean the contact area. Then clean the sensor's post that the wire attaches to.

If that doesn't fix it, you can risk spending ~$10 to replace the sensor, versus $50 or more for someone else to troubleshoot and do the repair. You can test the sensor while it is still on the car with an ohmmeter. If you're interested, it is a very simply procedure that takes all of 5 minutes. Resistance should measure 74 ohms when the gauge is indicating cold (needle on the "C"), and 9.7 ohms when it is indicating hot (needle on the "H").


As SHOMON stated, there's two separate temperature sensors - the Gauge Temperature Sending unit provides information to the instrument panel "TEMP" gauge and the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (provides engine temperature feedback to the PCM). The Gauge Temperature Sending unit [ F1SZ-10884-A ] is the small brass sensor in the lower-left portion of the image - the sensor with the white teflon tape:

​

:thankyou:

would it be safe to drive it to the shop vs. tow it?
Thanks,

 

[nistah]

Went to my local Ford Dealer today and bought The Gauge Temperature Sending unit [ F1SZ-10884-A ],

is this something I can replace myself with only basic tools and no jack?

Where exactly is that piece you have posted the picture of above located in the engine bay and what type of tools are necessary to get it apart to swap the temp sender?

Thanks again,

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Basic tools - no jack required.

When looking in from the airbox, the Gauge Temperature Sender is immediately behind the coil. The large opening in above and immediately right of the sending unit is where the thermostat goes, and the two exposed studs hold the 6-inch long housing extension that connects to the upper radiator hose.

You do not have to remove anything other than the sending unit, after removing the wire harness lead.

The sending unit requires a 17mm or 18mm socket, and 3- or 6-inch extension - that's it.

 

[SHOZ123]

When you topped off the coolant where did you add it? If you have to add it to the radiator then there is some kind of leak, either the cap or the tanks.

If the cap is bad it will cause you to lose coolant and overheat. Cheap and easy to replace and most people just don't for some reason. You should change the cap every two years with the coolant.

 

[93rev2sev]

Also, if you were in the red and pulled off the road and popped the rad cap...you would be complaining of severe burns. I think it MUST be the sensor.

 

[SHOZ123]

If the cap is bad it may not allow the pressure to build up.

 

[93rev2sev]

If the cap is bad it may not allow the pressure to build up.

Tru-dat...maybe it is the cap. Replace both.

 

[sho_shane]

My SHO did the same thing when i get it and it was that senser. Well not the senser, The wire was bare and it was shorting out on metel Taped it up and no probs.

 

[Ishodu]

Make sure you drain a gallon or so of coolant before you unscrew that sensor. And when you put new stuff in (good time for a flush and fill) make sure you add it slowly with the engine running and cap off of course till its fully warmed up.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

But it wouldn't go from cold-start to in the red within just one minute - that's more indicative of the sensor's resistor shorting. And overheating due to pressure loss (leaking or cap) is a much more gradual process.

Cleaning the connector and testing the sensor only takes a few minutes, whereas simply throwing parts at it will cost more than $40 without any certainty of correcting the problem.

Tru-dat...maybe it is the cap. Replace both.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Do a search for the term "burping" - it will describe how to refill the system and eliminate air pockets that result from the SHO's cooling system design.

Make sure you drain a gallon or so of coolant before you unscrew that sensor. And when you put new stuff in (good time for a flush and fill) make sure you add it slowly with the engine running and cap off of course till its fully warmed up.

 

[shovermont]

I hate that part of the SHO more then anything else in my life...

im going to let you know be VERY careful when you put the new one is as I went to the auto parts store for my dash gauge sensor, different then what is being suggested but same housing and it didn't fit and cracked the good housing making me have to replace the whole thing. that might be fragile if its old so take that into mind. did you try the actual thermostat? that could have been bad too, maybe a little cheeper? good luck

 

[frosho]

did you try the actual thermostat? that could have been bad too, maybe a little cheeper? good luck

A bad thermostat isn't going to make the car overheat in less than a minute. It's probably worth taking a look at it though, while you're in there.

 

[shovermont]

A bad thermostat isn't going to make the car overheat in less than a minute. It's probably worth taking a look at it though, while you're in there.

why couldn't it? if the thermostat is not opening and the car is already warm i certainly believe that it could be the problem. you should just replace while your there its like 8 bucks then you wont have to do it for a really long time.