Rattling noise on start up

[mclark]

2010 ford taurus sho with 75,000 miles on the clock . On cold start up the engine rattles for about 2 to 3 seconds then the engine is quiet . Have done a little research and have read that this is a common issue with this engine. I use motor craft oil filter and motor craft synthetic blend oil . Any info about this issue will be helpful .

 

[glockcoma]

It's the timing chain tensioners "ratcheting" out on the chain guide.
It's pretty common on 2010-12 MY.

The tensioners lose oil pressure from the check valve or anti drain back valve on the oil filter.

If it get bad enough you will throw a DTC as the tensioners can no longer extend enough to adjust the vvt.
If you completely depress the gas pedal when starting it will just crank and crank. This will build oil pressure before the engine starts and the noise will not be as noticeable.

I've had this issue on my 2010 since about 25,000 miles it has not gotten any worse.(54k now)
I just use a high-quality oil and a Motorcraft oil filter and it seems to help.

 

[rubydist]

I have noticed on some of the Motorcraft oil filters, the check valve seems to start leaking after a month or so, and then you get more of the startup clatter.

 

[SilverSH0]

If you completely depress the gas pedal when starting it will just crank and crank. This will build oil pressure before the engine starts and the noise will not be as noticeable.

While true, this only masks the sound while the engine is cranking. The engine is still making that noise but you don't hear it over all the other noises.
Mine makes the noise and at some point you actually stop noticing.

 

[markathome]

Ditto

Sent from my XT1094 using Tapatalk

 

[Jeff2017]

I have noticed on some of the Motorcraft oil filters, the check valve seems to start leaking after a month or so, and then you get more of the startup clatter.

Isn't the filter opening facing up? If so, how could it ever drain?

 

[SilverSH0]

Isn't the filter opening facing up? If so, how could it ever drain?

It's not about the direction the opening faces when talking about draining. Try this experiment to show the concept or idea. Take a hose (or some tubing), hold both ends at the same height, and fill it up with water until the entire tube is full. Now with both openings facing up, lift one end of the hose while holding the other in place. What happens? The water drains out the lower end even though the opening is facing up. In a line, while there is liquid at a higher elevation (thus pressure) than the lower opening it will flow out that opening regardless of the opening direction.

The same thing happens in an engine. Oil that is still in the supply line up towards the top of the engine will be pulled down backwards through the oil filter (if there's no check valve) and into the oil pan (lowest opening). With a check valve it will not let the oil flow backwards and keeps it "primed" in the supply line. If it's "primed" in the line then that line doesn't have to fill with new oil once you start the car.

 

[rubydist]

that was a much better description of how that works than I could have done, thanks!

 

[Jeff2017]

It's not about the direction the opening faces when talking about draining. Try this experiment to show the concept or idea. Take a hose (or some tubing), hold both ends at the same height, and fill it up with water until the entire tube is full. Now with both openings facing up, lift one end of the hose while holding the other in place. What happens? The water drains out the lower end even though the opening is facing up. In a line, while there is liquid at a higher elevation (thus pressure) than the lower opening it will flow out that opening regardless of the opening direction.

The same thing happens in an engine. Oil that is still in the supply line up towards the top of the engine will be pulled down backwards through the oil filter (if there's no check valve) and into the oil pan (lowest opening). With a check valve it will not let the oil flow backwards and keeps it "primed" in the supply line. If it's "primed" in the line then that line doesn't have to fill with new oil once you start the car.

I see. That makes sense. Thx!

 

[moonie]

I was wondering why I noticed it on my 2011 but my 2016 doesn't do it at all.

 

[ticoscen]

So, no one replaces the VVT sprockets? Just blame the chain?

 

[luigisho]

I have noticed on some of the Motorcraft oil filters, the check valve seems to start leaking after a month or so, and then you get more of the startup clatter.

Since I use Motorcraft 500s consistently and change every 3-3.5k is there a filter you like that has a better check valve?

 

[SHO_OFF_CO]

.

 

[Yankee Traveler]

Bump...

I use Mobil 1 or Pure One filters.
Is there a better filter to help prevent this?

 

[Boochy47]

So, no one replaces the VVT sprockets? Just blame the chain?

Is that the fix?

 

[rubydist]

So, no one replaces the VVT sprockets? Just blame the chain?

no one likes raising a 5 year old thread from the dead.

Motorcraft filters are as good as any I have found. The Mobil1 and Purolator are very good as well.

Sometimes the sprockets need replaced, but generally you can wear out several chains before the sprocket is worn out.

Also, when cranking, if you put your gas pedal to the floor for the first 1-2 seconds of cranking that will allow the oil pressure to build up before you put fuel into the cylinders and let it fire, which significantly reduces timing chain noise at startup. This is a widely used practice in the 4.0 sohc world due to those engines history of timing chain issues.