rangerj (AC Questions)

[drdave]

OK. I'm ready to do the AC. I have a few questions based on your previous replies to my AC questions.

How do you drain the oil from the compressor?

("replace all "O" rings and springs at connections, you can get a kit for this at most auto parts stores. Note that the "O" rings are made of a different material to be compatible with R-134a, the kit should have 8 ounces of R-134a oil for the conversion (use only the R-134a oil THAT IS INTENDED FOR CONVERSIONS) Put 5 in the compressor and divide the rest between the condenser and the filter dryer")

Can you explain this in a little more detail please?

I would also like the procedure for replacing the filter dryer line and the orifice line.

Lat but not least, you said to put oil in the compressor, condenser and the filter dryer. When I recharge the system, isn't the proper amount of oil already mixed in with the 134a?

 

[rangerj]

drdave,

There are two manifolds attached to the compressor, one for the high pressure side, and one for the low side. Mark one of them, and the compressor, so you can put them back in the correct possitions.

Disconnect and remove the manifolds, then remove the compressor from its mount (four bolts). Lay the compressor so that the oil drains out of the openings (overnight). Keep the compressor covered. You do not want to get any crud in the compressor.

You are going to add R-134a oil by pouring it into the high side opening (about 5 ounces), later.

Auto Zone sells a set of plastic tools used to separate A/C lines and fuel lines. The tool slips arround the line, then into the connection, and slightly spreads the spring that holds the lines together.

The total amount of refrigerant oil in the Taurus A/C system is about 7.5 ounces (no more than 8).
Some R134a cans come with oil in them (2 to 3 ounces) You can put 5oz in the compressor and a can with 3oz for your total of 8 (NO MORE).

The oil does vaporize (to a degree) in the system and flow with the refrigerant, but it is not inherently part of the R-134a.

Removeing the oriface line and the filter dryer lines is accomplished by using the tool and disconnecting them at both ends. It is not as easy as it might sound.

You will have to get some things out of the way, eg battery, engine anti-torque shock, etc. The connections at the firewall, behind the engine, are a bear.

When you remount the compressor, attach the manifolds and the short lines first. this keeps the oil from leaking out while you manuever the compressor onto its mounting.

Disconnect the manifold lines from the oriface anf filter/dryer line (accumulator) line and remove the compressor first.

I would check behind the clutch face for any sign of a leak from the compressor shaft seal while You have the compressor out.

See how you do getting things apart, then get back to me. We will walk you through it. rangerj

Make sure you have some bandaids, your hands are surely going to need them!

 

[drdave]

Ya know, I may just do a cheap test here. I'm considering purchasing the ol' 34.99 conversion from Wallmart and using it. This would be a pretty inexpensive way to determine if I have a leak, or if I lost my R-12 from the Schrader valves from non-use.

So I can use your suggestions and pull a vacuum on it for a long time, and then try this kit. My only concern would be how much oil is still in the compressor and how much is added with the kit.

If I could only find a flushing gun, I'd be more inclined to do the whole thing right! Well, maybe!

 

[rangerj]

Drdave,

In addition to the prior post, if you are going to go through this much effort you should pull the condenser (in front of the radiator) and have it pressure tested for leaks.

I would also get the chemical fluid for flushing the condenser and the evaporator core. Do NOT flush the compressor.

If the compressor needs a shaft seal, it takes several special tools made for pulling and replacing it. The tools come as a kit which is $100+ from Cornwall, Snap-On, etc.

I would take it to an A/C shop, but insist that they use the correct tools, AND the new seal MUST NOT BE TOUCHED BY BARE HANDS. Human acid (skin oil) shortens the life of the seal.

rangerj

 

[rangerj]

drdave,

Looks like we were posting about the same time.

OK, so you want to go cheap, or at least less work. Believe me, I can respect that.

If your system has any preasure at all you could have it recharged with R-12 and hope that the leak is very slow. If your only leak is the schreader valve, try tightening it a little, then recharge.

If you decide to go with the R-134a "kit" you still have to dump the R-12 oil out of the compressor, and it is best to flush out the system. Many shops do conversions without doing the flush, or replacing the filter/dryer (accumulator in Ford lingo).

You could dump the compressor, add the five ounces of R-134a oil (synthetic made for conversion), then vacuum (27 to 30 inches of vacuum) the system for at least 1/2 hour (3/4 to an hour is best).

Then add 2 to 3 more ounces of oil with the R-134a. A total of 27 to 30 ounces of R-134a refrigerant gets put into the system.

The R-134a can be purchased with a sealer/ conditioner also in the mix with the oil!

This is not the best way to do a conversion, but it will work. Just keep in mind that the first time I hear you complain that R-134a is not as efficient as R-12 I'll be all over you like a cheap suit!!!! thumbs_u rangerj

 

[drdave]

I have to start wearing my glasses more. When I first read your post, I thought you said you'd be all over me like a cheap slut! Scared the crap outa me eek!

It's not so much I want to go cheap, it just seams as though I need more tools to do the job than I have access to. I can't find a pump to flush with, and if I could, it would be an expensive investment for one time use.

If I use the conversion kit, I would at least know weather or not I had an important leak or not, and should at least have some cool air for a while.

I don't love 134a. My 90 SHO had a great retrofit done to it, and at 100+ degrees outside, I could get 32 degrees from the center vent. But it takes a long time to get there, and lord knows you don't want to get stuck in traffic in Texas in the summer with the retrofit. I know that some will disagree, but I'm a Yankee that never got used to the Texas heat, and I have never found an air conditioner that was too cold for me!

I may be better off getting the damn thing pressure tested and have the r12 put back in. Have to call my in-laws and see if they still have any cans left.

 

[rangerj]

drdave,

SUIT DOC, CHEAP SUIT! Put your glasses on, PLLease. eek! rangerj wink