cubanboi89
Member
Is raising the idol speed on a stock motor good or bad? Will it effect gas? Will it throw a code? Why raise the Idol Speed?
Raising Idol Speed
- Thread starter cubanboi89
- Start date
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frosho
WOLFMAN
You can't raise the idle speed without a tuner which is big money. I have no idea why you'd want to in the first place. Why do you ask?
cubanboi89
Member
I do alot of internet reading and I saw somewhere that it is supposed to help with air flow. A friend of mine did it on his 3000GT VR-4 when he upgraded his turbos. Just had to as and see for sure because not everything on the internet is true. I'd rather ask people who would really know thats why I asked the people of SHO forum. Thanks for the info.
SHOspazz92
Banned
Raising your IDLE speed will do absolutely nothing for performance, gas mileage...etc.
This will do nothing for the car, as the computer will eventually learn this and adjust certain variables so your idle will settle back down to stock.
-Sam
This will do nothing for the car, as the computer will eventually learn this and adjust certain variables so your idle will settle back down to stock.
-Sam
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cubanboi89
Member
Thanks alot you guys for you help! If I need anything about my car I will come to you guys first before consulting the internet!
cubanboi89
Member
Good Question...
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
No.
Don't **** with it.
Don't **** with it.
actually, raising the idle speed will almost certainly reduce gas mileage, unless you spend virtually zero time at idle.
shobote
SHO Member
With extensive upgrades, e.g. high lift cams, ported heads, with big turbo's, you have to raise the idle above stock, or else it will die. Doing this on any stock vehicle will just throw gas money away.
cubanboi89
Member
Well I won't touch it then lol not until I get those things added to the motor.
somedude_001
SHO Member
DO NOT DO THIS! just in case it was not clear before. You can adjust the idle with a tweecer. My turbo ATX would idle at 300rpm if you brought it down slowly. It made absolutly no noise and it was neat to watch the pulleys turn at a snails pace. Doing a low idle has no practical application though. The only reason you would want to raise the idle is if you had problems with it stalling because of a super light flywheel and really aggressive cams which we don't have for the SHO that I am aware of.
Leo(209)(707)
Member
....I have the SHO Source lightened flywheel and would stall out sometimes because of it. I messed with the idle screw and got it to idle a little higher(900-1000ish). I havent stalled it out since. I havent gotten any codes either and i have been running it for a few months now. I dont imagine there being any problem with this. Or is there something i should worry about?
frosho
WOLFMAN
That screw is not there for idle adjustments. It's a stop meant to keep the throttle plate from smacking the wall of the throttle body when you lift. Since you opened the gap, you don't have to worry about the plate hitting the wall, but I'd be a little leery of running into IAC issues since you're basically doing its job with that screw. I'm wondering if you might have had a sticky IAC to begin with, and that could have caused your stalling issues.
EDIT: Now that you're letting extra air past the throttle plate, there will be less flow through the IAC. Whether that's good, bad, or indifferent, I don't know.
EDIT: Now that you're letting extra air past the throttle plate, there will be less flow through the IAC. Whether that's good, bad, or indifferent, I don't know.
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Bob Gervais
Wut?
Technically, it's called a "minimum air gap" screw. On most fuel injected engines, there's a spec of what that gap should be. It's set from the factory to be correct, and while it seems like an easy thing to adjust, once it's moved from its stock position it'll throw the TPS off. The PCM expects to see a certain voltage at closed throttle, and a certain voltage at WOT. In between those points, the value is used along with other sensor values to calculate timing, fuel, and I'm sure a bunch of other shit I don't know about.
Short story: it's not an idle adjustment screw. Don't **** with it.
Short story: it's not an idle adjustment screw. Don't **** with it.
I expect that you have a code for "unable to control idle speed" or something to that effect.
If the pcm does not see the idle speed go down to the proper number, it will kick the iac open a little about every 6-10 seconds, so every SHO that I have seen with the throttle stop screw mis-adjusted will flare the idle speed on that 6+ second interval, which is quite annoying.
If you are not experiencing that, it means your iac is sticky or stuck, which is the real reason for having stalling issues - no one else with a 8lb flywheel and a properly working iac has stalling issues.
Adjusting the idle is hopeless as the PCM will use the IAC to try and limit the rpm to what is in the PCM program. That being said.
I use to adjust the idle screw on my V8. As it is from the factory the throttle stop never actually hits the screw. But to give the IAC more headroom and to prevent the annoying throttle plate hangup at closed throttle I would do this procedure.
On a hot engine, screw the stop is so the car is idling around 1500 rpm, not important to get the exact number. Then disconnect the IAC and start backing the screw out until the idle is under 500 rpm.
Then turn off the car, plug in the IAC, and disconnect the battery to clear the learned IAC values.
I use to adjust the idle screw on my V8. As it is from the factory the throttle stop never actually hits the screw. But to give the IAC more headroom and to prevent the annoying throttle plate hangup at closed throttle I would do this procedure.
On a hot engine, screw the stop is so the car is idling around 1500 rpm, not important to get the exact number. Then disconnect the IAC and start backing the screw out until the idle is under 500 rpm.
Then turn off the car, plug in the IAC, and disconnect the battery to clear the learned IAC values.
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