Quick rear camber plate question

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RI-SHO

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Ok I was looking at some diagrams of the camber plate that are sold for the Taurus and maybe I just cant picture it or something but how do they work? I read you drill the two holes using the adjuster/plate that comes with the kit but if each gets closer and closer for positive camber how could you get the 3strut holes to align if they cant get closer themselves?
 

RStalveyARFF

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Edien. The plate has two holes (which you stick bolts through the existing holes on the strut tower), then you drill 3 more holes to mount the strut through. I think it's a ******** product. I will pull LCA's off and press new cams into them anyday over doing the drilling.
 

nc89sho

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here's a question, why not just drill holes in the strut tower beside the existing holes and mount the strut there?? what do you need a plat for?
 

RStalveyARFF

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the plate is a piece of plastic so you don't mess up drilling the holes. It's a template. You are much better off getting the adjustment bushings from TRW, etc.
 

SHODWN

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Eddie get me the adjustable bushings from Napa, and your rear arms and Ill press them in for you for nothing..

Yes the GTP arms also resolve this.
 

sdpatt

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nc89sho:
here's a question, why not just drill holes in the strut tower beside the existing holes and mount the strut there?? what do you need a plat for?
I used a little high school geometry and calculated the distance the upper strut must move to get the camber at the desired value on my passenger side rear strut. The driver side was already at -1 degree and I wanted to match that with the out of spec pass side. I drilled three new holes and relocated the strut to get teh camber at -1 degrees on both sides.

The catch is that to move the upper strut mounting position outward also moves the upper edge of the tire closer to the fender (on the Gen I body). I have had to remove a good portion (about 3/8" to 1/2") from the inner fender lip to allow my 7.5" wide. 35mm offset wheels and 225/55-16 tires to fit inside the fenders without rubbing.

Even with the "plate," you still have to provide slots for the bolts to move in. That would require cutting out some of the top of the strut tower. That is not a good idea.

<small>[ October 17, 2002, 08:51 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
 
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