Quick question about AC clutch replacement

[drdave]

I've had a compressor with a good clutch in my garage for about a year. I took it apart to use it on my 93 and noticed that the clutch surface and pulley are rusted. Not really a surprise, kind of how brake rotors rust quickly without use.

Question is, will the rust clean itself on the AC clutch by use, or should I consider these parts trash?

 

[rangerj]

Dr.Dave,

Rust in Texas? Hold the clutch face with a Strap Wrench", of any other way, and remove the nut (or bolt). Then pry the clutch face off of the compressor shaft. Do not use screwdrivers, as they can gouge, nick, or scratch the clutch surfaces. There are pullers for this purpose, but if you do not have one try the suggestion below.

I use a couple of wood shims to wedge in between the two surfaces and force them apart. Once you have them apart clean up the clutch surfaces with sandpaper, emmory cloth, wire brush, etc.

Be careful not to lose the washers(shims)that are in the clutch face (where the compressor shaft goes). The shims provide the spacing between the clutch surfaces, which should be about .035 inch.

Reassemble the clutch and it should be good to go. rangerj thumbs_u

 

[drdave]

Am I missing something?

I took off my wheel and the liner, and there is barely enough room to get to the compressor. When I removed the clutch from my spare compressor, the snap rings were kind of deep. They were easy to remove because I could see them.

How in the world do you get these rings out blindly, and with almost no clearance for tools?

Getting the 12mm socket on the nut was even a challenge.

 

[drdave]

^

 

[rangerj]

DrDave,

You get a little more room by removing the battery and setting the cables aside. Obviously you have to remove the drive belt also.

The inner fender well makes it difficult to work on the compressor because the narrow distance makes it hard to manuver tools. So, I remove the four bolts holding the compressor to it mount so I can angle the compressor for easier access to the snap rings that hold on the coil and the pulley. Note, I said easier, not easy.

Take note that the snap rings are beveled on one side. The beveled side should face you, that is outward, when installed correctly.

Once you have it all back together run it for a few minutes then recheck the gap between the clutch surfaces. Once you have the gap correct, then "run in" the clutch surfaces by cycling the clutch "on" for about 20seconds, then off for about 20 seconds. Do this about 20 times.

Your working on the A/C system in March? Has it
become that hot in Texas already? You'all sure are lucky, we're still buried in snow.
Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[drdave]

My car is black, and I was born and raised in Philly. 70 is more than hot enough for me to run the AC! In fact, anything above 55 is fair game to me.

Well, it's time to regroup. It turns out that I have no charge in the system, so it's decision time. Do I stay R-12 or retrofit? Do I keep the OEM compressor and change the clutch, or use a reported good compressor with the clutch that I was going to put on my OEM? Or, steal the compressor off of my 90, which had the ability to blow 32 from the center vent when it was 100 outside, using R134a?

All I need is cold, fast, and cheap! Is that too much to ask?

 

[rangerj]

Doc,

Consider $65 a lb. for R-12 vrs. $12 lb for R-134a. You need to find and repair your leak no matter which refrigerant you decide on.

If you decide to switch to R-134a heres a list to consider;

R-12 compressor - drain out R-12 oil DO NOT attempt to clean any of it out, just let it drain.

Replace the filter dryer line, I would also replace the oriface line,

Have condenser pressure tested for leaks by a radiator shop,

get flushing kit at a parts store and clean out the condenser core and the evaporator core,

replace all "O" rings and springs at connections, you can get a kit for this at most auto parts stores. Note that the "O" rings are made of a different material to be compatible with R-134a, the kit should have 8 ounces of R-134a oil for the conversion (use only the R-134a oil THAT IS INTENDED FOR CONVERSIONS) Put 5 in the compressor and divide the rest between the condenser and the filter dryer,

After the system is assembled vacuum down to 27 to 30 inches of vacuum for 30 to 45 minutes, then check for any leak down for 30 minutes, if none, vacuum for another 30 minutes then charge with about 28 to 30 ounces of R134a,

When you're fixen' thumbs_u (get ready )to do this Doc, let us know if you need any more info. rangerj