Quick idle question...

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

LeddZepp8687

The Keg Rider
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
966
Reaction score
19
Location
Naperville, IL
I cleaned out my TB really good with carb cleaner and paint thinner (ran out of carb cleaner halfway through) Well now the car idles at like 1k which is high and the throttle stopper is completely OUT of the hole. I bought a new TPS and I think Im gonna do the idle re-set thingy in the "how do I?" section. Also Im running a custom CAI and its sucking air like MAD its really freakin loud and I can hear it when driving, and I never heard this before I cleaned the TB out. Is it possible I cleaned it out TO well?? Like maybe the TPS is all wigged out cause now it closes all the way?? I feel like such a fool for posting such a simple sounding problem. Been workin on cars for years and I know my stuff, except this electronically controlled idle BS..Anyways, what would you guys do??


Ohh yea forgot to add, I did all this about a month ago, Ive just been dealing with the high idle since then, Tryed cleaning the IAB ect, ect nothing.
Also When it first happend I got a TPS code, something like TPS out of range or something, AND I got a SPOUT error code that went away a day later. The odd thing is I havent seen a CE light in a good 3 weeks if not more!!


Thanks in advance!!
 

NoSlo

SHO Owner
Joined
Aug 21, 2003
Messages
908
Reaction score
655
Location
Portland, OR
Vacuum Leak? How to reset the idle etc.

If you removed the throttle body it's possible that you created a vacuum leak if you didn't replace a worn out or chipped gasket, letting unmetered air into the engine. That would make the car idle high, and the computer would be confused trying to compensate for your car being lean at idle. Replacing the damaged gasket would be the solution. You should also inspect any vacuum lines to see if they are cracked or if they all got put back on right.

Of course you should try the re-learn idle procedure. Cleaning the carboned up ports can make more idle air flow through the throttle body. The throttle body stop should not be adjusted; if you can put it back where it was originally that would be best. You can also adjust your throttle position sensor by loosening the screws and twisting it while you probe the output voltage. It should be around 0.95 volts at closed throttle.

Here's the re-learn procedure:
1. Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, turn on the lights to make sure any charge is drawn out of the system to wipe the computer's adaptive memory.
2. Turn off the lights and reconnect the battery.
3. Put the car ignition in the run position and make sure radio, heat, lights and everything else is off. Start the car, without touching the gas and with all the accessories and EATC off. Let it idle for 60 seconds.
4. put the A/C on max, turn the steering wheel back and forth, still not touching the gas. If you have an automatic, push the brake down and put the car in reverse for a few seconds, then in drive for a few seconds. This teaches the car the maximum amount of IAC it will need to maintain an idle.
5. Take the car for a 10 minute drive after the temperature is into the normal range. It's best if you can go through a variety of driving conditions, partial throttle, max throttle, heavy load (like straight up a hill), coasting.
6. If your car is still wacky, you've got problems, Buster. Pull out the continuous engine codes to see if you set any codes during your joyride. Then do the Key-On Engine-Running test.
 

SonicRiot

Handbanana!
Joined
Nov 27, 2003
Messages
1,252
Reaction score
1
Location
CT
There shouldn't be a need to adjust the trottle stop on a vehicle with an electronically controlled idle.

The wiring diagram can be found at AutoZone.com under Repair Guides.
 

F-22 Raptor SHO

New Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2001
Messages
2,788
Reaction score
71
Location
7015 feet above Sea Level
I'm sorry to hear of your idle problems....that little screw needs to go back in. Its a "no no never touch" kinda screw.

To test the voltage on the TPS, you can measure it right on the sensor itself. Put your multimeter electrodes in through the back of the sensor where the clip is.

You could remove your IAB valve which it that silver cylinder near the TB and clean that out with carb cleaner. Funny thing about SHO's is that the sensors can be fine but if the idle isnt reset correctly, you will get high idle or bouncing idle
 

SHOZ123

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2000
Messages
12,152
Reaction score
673
Location
Illinois
I've been fooling with the TPS on my '97. You need to put a paper clip through the back of the connector. It is the middle wire. Then connect the voltmeter to it and the other lead to ground. Test with the key on engine off. Try to get it as close to 1V but under, .997V is the goal.

You can drill out the rivets a bit to get some more play in the TPS.

The throttle stop should have ~3 mm clearance and should never contact the actual throttle lever.
 

Axianator

I am a banana!
Joined
Dec 20, 2001
Messages
1,372
Reaction score
25
Location
Roanoke, TX
SHOZ123 said:
I've been fooling with the TPS on my '97. You need to put a paper clip through the back of the connector. It is the middle wire. Then connect the voltmeter to it and the other lead to ground. Test with the key on engine off. Try to get it as close to 1V but under, .997V is the goal.

You can drill out the rivets a bit to get some more play in the TPS.
Actually, Paul, this old "trick" is pretty much useless on the Gen 2 ATX since both EECs use relative TP as the primary throttle position variable in their calculations. I'm also willing to bet that the Gen 3 SHO is the same way, though I haven't been able to confirm it yet.
 

Axianator

I am a banana!
Joined
Dec 20, 2001
Messages
1,372
Reaction score
25
Location
Roanoke, TX
SonicRiot said:
There shouldn't be a need to adjust the trottle stop on a vehicle with an electronically controlled idle.
Agreed. The throttle set screw should never be used to adjust the idle on any SHO. ;)

SHOZ123 said:
I've been fooling with the TPS on my '97. You need to put a paper clip through the back of the connector. It is the middle wire. Then connect the voltmeter to it and the other lead to ground. Test with the key on engine off. Try to get it as close to 1V but under, .997V is the goal.

You can drill out the rivets a bit to get some more play in the TPS.
Actually, Paul, this old "trick" is completely useless on the Gen 2 ATX since both EECs use relative TP as the primary throttle position variable in their calculations. I'm also willing to bet that the Gen 3 SHO is the same way, though I haven't been able to confirm it yet.
 

Axianator

I am a banana!
Joined
Dec 20, 2001
Messages
1,372
Reaction score
25
Location
Roanoke, TX
SonicRiot said:
There shouldn't be a need to adjust the trottle stop on a vehicle with an electronically controlled idle.
Agreed. The throttle set screw should never be used to adjust the idle on any SHO. ;)

SHOZ123 said:
I've been fooling with the TPS on my '97. You need to put a paper clip through the back of the connector. It is the middle wire. Then connect the voltmeter to it and the other lead to ground. Test with the key on engine off. Try to get it as close to 1V but under, .997V is the goal.

You can drill out the rivets a bit to get some more play in the TPS.
Actually, Paul, this old "trick" is pretty much useless on the Gen 2 ATX since both EECs use relative TP as the primary throttle position variable in their calculations. I'm also willing to bet that the Gen 3 SHO is the same way, though I haven't been able to confirm it yet.
 

SHOZ123

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2000
Messages
12,152
Reaction score
673
Location
Illinois
Seems the GEN3 if you go over 1.010V will give a high idle and screw up the tranny shifting. Or so I've found out. Actually if you stay a bit above 1.000V say 1.005V, the V8 has a bit faster idle and better driveability. IMHO
 

TankII

SHO Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
391
Reaction score
66
Location
Bolton, CT
1) NEVER use regular Carb cleaner on an EFI engine. Use Throttle Body cleaner. You can ruin your various EFI related seals pretty quick with the wrong cleaning supplies.
2) Check your IAB. It may still have something stuck in side OR the Carb Cleaner wiped out the little diaphram.
3) Check for vacuum leaks.
4) Get your voltage to just under 1.0 on the TPS. You *MAY* now have to take a screw out to get the positioning you need.

TankII
 

LeddZepp8687

The Keg Rider
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
966
Reaction score
19
Location
Naperville, IL
Yea, see the thing is I cleaned my IAB out with carb cleaner a while back..I guess thats what is bad. I snagged one from the boneyard. But my question is, where should I set the stopper to?? Should I set it so that where it sits the voltage is below 1.0?? Do I need to start the car to get the volatge reading?? Thanks guys!!
 

SHOZ123

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2000
Messages
12,152
Reaction score
673
Location
Illinois
The throttle stop should have a 3mm gap when the engine is off. The TPS should read about 1V or less when the key is on, engine off.
 

LeddZepp8687

The Keg Rider
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
966
Reaction score
19
Location
Naperville, IL
SHOZ123 said:
The throttle stop should have a 3mm gap when the engine is off. The TPS should read about 1V or less when the key is on, engine off.


3MM gap between the set screw and the throttle arm thingy? I thought they were supposed to make contact??
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,077
Messages
1,181,197
Members
16,142
Latest member
Kaevorlly
Back
Top