Question need advice by the end of tonight

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95SHOgirl

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I've did a search and there seems to be two opinions of what to do about this problem I'm having with the SHO. Ok, here goes...


I try to start the car and nothing. I try a couple more times and sometimes nothing. Sometimes the car starts right up. Other times, I have to let it sit for awhile before trying to start it again. She cranks but just hard to start. Also, sometimes, she will start and start stuttering. The tach bounce's and it sounds like a heart beat from inside the car coming from the exhaust. I take her out for a spin and the tach returns to normal and the stuttering goes away. She runs strong then. Next thing I know, (after about 10-20 min of driving) she starts stuttering and it is really difficult to get her up to speed because the engine feels like it going to come through the dash. The tach drops to zero and there is no reading as I accelerate.

Now I've been reading on this site that some say that this behavior is caused most likely by the CID. Other say it is the CPS. I've read that it could be both or the coils. I've ruled out the coils since I've read that the tach will not completely fall off to zero and then after driving for a while come back to life. With the coils, the tach drops off by 1/3 for each failure of the three. Thus, it cannot be the coils. The waterpump does not leak and I've read that waterpump failure's are the #1 reason for CPS failure's. However, there have been some on this board who have just replaced the CPS and the problems went away.

Thus, I'm at a lost as to which one I should buy. I CID will only cost me about 33.00 from autozone. I can my CID replaced for total of 50.00. If it turns out to be my CPS, I'm going to need more money because this involves more work. I need your help because school starts back up on Wednesday. I need to get this problem solved by Tuesdays so that I can drive my daily drive of 60 miles a day.

Remember to take it easy on me. I did the search. :wave:
 

Redline

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Ok, well it sounds like it could possibly be either one. Since the CID is cheap and very easy to replace, I would try that first. Your problems sound similar to mine when my CID went bad. A lot of times part stores will let you return a part, so if that isn't the problem your not out anything. It should only take you about 20 minutes to replace it.
 

shorage

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Sounds like CID to me. Is your water pump leaking? Last 60k? Check for fuel pressure? Does the Fuel Pump prime everytime you turn the key?

Just throwing some ideas out.

I would venture to say CID or Fuel Pump.




95SHOgirl said:
I've did a search and there seems to be two opinions of what to do about this problem I'm having with the SHO. Ok, here goes...


I try to start the car and nothing. I try a couple more times and sometimes nothing. Sometimes the car starts right up. Other times, I have to let it sit for awhile before trying to start it again. She cranks but just hard to start. Also, sometimes, she will start and start stuttering. The tach bounce's and it sounds like a heart beat from inside the car coming from the exhaust. I take her out for a spin and the tach returns to normal and the stuttering goes away. She runs strong then. Next thing I know, (after about 10-20 min of driving) she starts stuttering and it is really difficult to get her up to speed because the engine feels like it going to come through the dash. The tach drops to zero and there is no reading as I accelerate.

Now I've been reading on this site that some say that this behavior is caused most likely by the CID. Other say it is the CPS. I've read that it could be both or the coils. I've ruled out the coils since I've read that the tach will not completely fall off to zero and then after driving for a while come back to life. With the coils, the tach drops off by 1/3 for each failure of the three. Thus, it cannot be the coils. The waterpump does not leak and I've read that waterpump failure's are the #1 reason for CPS failure's. However, there have been some on this board who have just replaced the CPS and the problems went away.

Thus, I'm at a lost as to which one I should buy. I CID will only cost me about 33.00 from autozone. I can my CID replaced for total of 50.00. If it turns out to be my CPS, I'm going to need more money because this involves more work. I need your help because school starts back up on Wednesday. I need to get this problem solved by Tuesdays so that I can drive my daily drive of 60 miles a day.

Remember to take it easy on me. I did the search. :wave:
 

95SHOgirl

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Someone said they actually had a write up on changing out the CID on this site. Does anyone have information on going about this. I like to do it myself.
 

95SHOgirl

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Ok I went out and pulled the codes. I'm sure it's the CID now.

KOEO

157- MAF Circuit below min volt (I think I know the reason for this)

172- HEGO sensor indicates system rich ( I have no clue what this means)

211- PIP circuit Fault ( Now we are getting somewhere)

214- CID Circuit Failure (Bingo)

542- Fuel pump seconday circuit Failure (explainable since the CID no longer works)

KOER

115- Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor out of self-test range. This is my fault. Car was not properly warmed up before test

159- MAF out of self-test range

172- HEGO sensor indicates system lean (RH).

411- Cannot control RPM during self-test low RPM check.

538- Operator error (dynamic response / cylinder balance tests). This is my fault.

Ok..so now I'm really starting to think it's the CID.
 

ShelbyDoug

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Make sure that you have consistent fuel pressure. The fuel pumps don't necessarily give a code when they start to die. Low or erratic fuel pressure will also cause some of these symtoms you describe.
There is a "schrader" valve on the fuel log. Take off the cap and make sure that fuel squirtsout when you press the valve. If you can borrow a fuel gauge, hook it up to the valve and turn the ignition on and read it then start the car and read it. It's a 40psi pump.
You need to eliminate the fuel pump as the problem before you go further.
 

voogru

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I had the same problem and my first thought was bad connection at the battery, so I went to the battery cleaned the terminials and cables and reinstalled them tight, that will eliminate bad battery connection, then I did koeo test and pulled the cid code, I replaced that sensor and all has been good since, good luck!!
Javier
 

Redline

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95SHOgirl said:
Someone said they actually had a write up on changing out the CID on this site. Does anyone have information on going about this. I like to do it myself.

I'm not sure about a writeup. You could try searchig I guess, but its pretty easy. Its on the passenger side of the engine kinda down low neare the firewall. I unbolted my power steering resivoir so i had more room to work. There was only one or two bolts holding that on so it was easy. The CID is round and looks about like a hockey puck with a wide electrical plug in the side. Unplug it and the there are two bolts holding it in place. Pull them out, being careful not to drop them, and it should come right off. Put the new one it and your done!
 

F-22 Raptor SHO

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ShelbyDoug said:
Make sure that you have consistent fuel pressure. The fuel pumps don't necessarily give a code when they start to die. Low or erratic fuel pressure will also cause some of these symtoms you describe.
There is a "schrader" valve on the fuel log. Take off the cap and make sure that fuel squirtsout when you press the valve. If you can borrow a fuel gauge, hook it up to the valve and turn the ignition on and read it then start the car and read it. It's a 40psi pump.
You need to eliminate the fuel pump as the problem before you go further.


Use a tire pressure gauge. 30-40 psi when you turn the key on. 40 psi when it starts up. Make sure you check the pressure when it starts exhibiting the problems...dont press schrader valve in just to see if gas comes out. If you cant measure the pressure, then dont press it.
 

Amy 95 SHO

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I realize this is an old post, but for those of you (like myself) going thru old posts trying to figure out what is currently going on with your car....Auto Zone WILL take back and refund parts, just be sure to keep your receipt!!
 

Devin

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I realize this is an old post, but for those of you (like myself) going thru old posts trying to figure out what is currently going on with your car....Auto Zone WILL take back and refund parts, just be sure to keep your receipt!!
I my experience, they usually don't except electronics returns once they have been installed.
 
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