pulls to left under braking.

[Dedragonknight]

I have the same issue after doing my pbr upgrade, I still need to install my SS's for the rear lines, but i believe i need to bleed the fronts more, as well as the abs pump, as i think one caliper isnt being pushed as hard as the other due to air.

 

[rcsavage]

in order to bleed the abs pump, don't i need some special tool?

 

[pjtoledo]

It would help, but a wet parking lot where you can safely envoke the ABS a few times will work just fine. Also the ABS is supposed to cycle every time you hit a certain speed, like 7 or 12 MPH. Thats a short buzz you hear everytime start and pass that speed. So it should self bleed after a few cycles.

Don't forget to check out the rear, a right rear caliper not grabbing will make the front of the car go to the left.

 

[rcsavage]

well right now the abs computer is unplugged due to some electrical gremlin. it likes to activate the abs as soon as i go to step on the brakes, and i can barely stop. i have to fight the abs to push it down. so i am wondering since the computer is unplugged, what state does the abs go into? do all the valves or whatever open in the abs? i don't understand how it fully works.

 

[rcsavage]

ok guys, im bringing it back up because its still not fixed. i tried bleeding the brakes and the left front will not bleed. it trickles a little. i tried following the hard line but as soon as it gets to the fire wall, i lose it. its impossible to continue following. which brings me to my next question. if the hard line is crimped, bent, etc, how am i supposed to replace it if i cant even see it? im very frustrated at this point and dont really know where to go from here. please dont tell me i have to drop the engine out to get to this line.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

The left-front brake line comes directly from the ABS pump, and is part of the 6-line assembly called the "bundle assembly". Search "bundle assembly" and my user name for a previous discussion on the assembly.

In order to replace the line, you will need to remove the airbox, the ABS computer and mounting plate immediately below. It is easier to remove and replace the entire assembly, versus any one individual brake line in the assembly.

 

[rcsavage]

the problem side is the right side of the car. where does that run out of? is it possible to replace that whole hard line with the engine in?

*edit* sorry guys, i just realized i posted that the left side wouldn't bleed. it was the right side, the passenger side, that would not bleed.

 

[Racer X]

My money is on the ABS valve assy/ pump being faulty. Hard lines don't just kink or get that blocked unless you had a huge wreck, or are running Evian for brake fluid.

 

[rcsavage]

My money is on the ABS valve assy/ pump being faulty. Hard lines don't just kink or get that blocked unless you had a huge wreck, or are running Evian for brake fluid.

ive been thinking something like this but havent really gotten a straight answer out of anybody of what part they suspect. im not gonna behead you if your wrong, i just want an educated guess from you experts.

 

[hawkeye18]

There could be an internal leak in the master cylinder. There are two pistons in it, one for front left/right rear, and another for front right/left rear. This is a "safety feature" from ford, and it's designed to let you still have at least two wheels braking in case one of the lines coming of the MC breaks. If the seal in the piston is weak/deteriorated, it will allow fluid to leak past it, and you won't be pressing down on that line as hard. So, if it's the FR/RL circuit that's leaking internally, your car would pull to the left. Check it out. MC's aren't THAT bad to replace...

 

[rcsavage]

ive been thinking master cylinder for awhile. i was just on my way here to post how to remove it.

another thing. recently my brakes have started doing something else. if i down shift to come to a stop, sometimes the pedal goes down by itself(without me pressing it at all) and sometimes if i press it down and let off the brake, while still decellerate using the engine, the pedal remains down. i know shos often have this problem and its causes by a failed/weak spring in the brake booster. how hard is that to replace as well? thanks for all your guy's help. its much appreciated.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

The right-front brake line is a two-piece line from the ABS pump to the flexible brake hose. The first line starts at the ABS, goes through the bundle assembly, and terminates at a small black plastic union-block located along the driver's side unibody rail, well below the master cylinder.

The second steel brake line starts at the black plastic union-block, then routes behind the master cylinder vacuum booster, up to and along the body-panel lip at the top of the firewall, where it is hidden by vacuum lines and the valence cover that also covers the wiper motor. The line then drops-down along the firewall behind the passenger side shock tower, before passing through the shock tower into the right-front wheel.

the problem side is the right side of the car. where does that run out of? is it possible to replace that whole hard line with the engine in?

*edit* sorry guys, i just realized i posted that the left side wouldn't bleed. it was the right side, the passenger side, that would not bleed.

 

[rcsavage]

ok guys i bought a new master cylinder and a Brand new (not rebuilt) Brake Booster (supposedly THE last oem one) im gonna replace these both and if i still have problems i might **** something. anything special about replacing either part. instructions say to brake bleed the master cylinder, not quite sure what that means.

 

[clindahl]

Bench bleed the master cylinder. Its a PITA with the setup used on these cars. Hopefully included in with the master cylinder are some cheap plastic adaptors and some plastic tube. Basically you want to bleed the air out of the Master cylinder - hook up the plasitc plugs and tubing and put the tubing into the resivoir on top of the master cylinder. Push the plunger in with a long screwdriver slowly and slowly let it out. Watch the bubbles move up the clear tubes.

When this becomes a PITA is the resivoir has a ****** that goes to the ABS controller, which you have to some how keep closed with the resivoir full of brake fluid. I used a small piece of hose and something else to shut it down.


good luck!

 

[rcsavage]

the new MC didn't come with any plastic plugs or anything like that. i went to the auto parts store and they knew what i was looking for but didn't have it and had no idea where to get them. so maybe you guys know. where can i get these?

 

[shobote]

I would take the car in to a cerified mechanic; or you can continue to spend money trying to fix things by replacing expensive parts without even knowing if they are even bad to begin with.

 

[rcsavage]

I would take the car in to a cerified mechanic; or you can continue to spend money trying to fix things by replacing expensive parts without even knowing if they are even bad to begin with.

thanks for your opinion. anyone know where to get those plugs?

 

[AREA 91]

Check for excessive play in your front strut rods. I have seen where the front wheels will move backward during heavy braking.

 

[rcsavage]

i checked them while i had the whole car apart and they were fine. nice and tight and little to no rust around them. like i said earlier, im not getting fluid out of one side, so i think ive got it pretty much pegged at a brake component problem and not suspension related.

still looking for those plugs...

 

[AREA 91]

Gotcha.

My master cylinder came with the bleeder lines.