pulls to left under braking.

[rcsavage]

alright i have had this problem for awhile, but now its very noticable and getting dangerous. under any amount of brake, you can feel the car pull left. its not a broken subframe, its not any bushings up front(i just replaced them all), its not an alignment as i just had one done.

i just did the front pads and the drivers side was worn down badly( it went from being fine to digging into my rotor with in a minute. i had to have the rotor cut down) the passenger side was not worn nearly as bad. still lots of meat on it. what would cause a front brake to not work?

 

[LJRuddy]

Collapsed hose? stuck caliper?

 

[rcsavage]

when u say collapsed hose, are u talking about the rubber line or the metal one. if rubber, i think i will upgrade to braided lines.

 

[LJRuddy]

The rubber hoses are what collapse

 

[projectSHO89]

I would suspect the rt frnt brake hose first. Probably sealed almost shut due to corrosion inside the mounting bracket.

Steve

 

[SeanMc]

You'll love the SS lines.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

You'll love the SS lines.

yeah, just get them first and if its not the problem youll lovee the peddle feel anyway

 

[dantheman68]

yeah, get the SS lines from RCM, the SS are great, and RCM is a great vendor

 

[SeanMc]

I got mine from Summit..overnight (it was an emergency) for $123. No waiting for RCM. As you notice, he's not on top of my vendor list.

 

[rcsavage]

alright. i ordered the lines this morning and got them shipped 2nd day, so if they come sunday, ill bleed all the brakes and replace the hoses. thanks guys, ill keep you posted.

 

[Phoenix]

yeah, get the SS lines from RCM, the SS are great, and RCM is a great vendor

Times 2.

Mark is a great guy.

 

[rcsavage]

i ordered my lines through summit. not becasue i dont like RCM, i just like being able to use my credit card and get it cleared immediately. and also, they have shipping options. i know i can have a credit card on paypal, but it just feels like it would be so easy for someone to hack that. my dad was a victim of identity theft so im paranoid

 

[rcsavage]

alright guys. i got the lines on along with 3 new calipers(2 front and passenger rear) and bled the whole system. the car still pulls left. what going on here?

 

[St Louis SHO]

I've had an ABS pump valve screw me like that... Is the RF caliper collapsing properley?

 

[rcsavage]

Don't want to revive an ancient thread, but I am still having this problem. i'm sorry I never answered the last poster. Its a brand new caliper, I just put new pads and rotors on, and it moved in and out fine when I had to push the piston back in.

I had someone pump the brakes slowly with the car running while I held the caliper, the piston moved in and out freely.

Its not a frozen caliper, no collapsed lines, and I have bled the brakes. The "problem caliper" has started to rust which, to me, shows that its not getting hot, which means not braking as hard (if at all) as the others.

Does the hard line from the caliper run into an ABS assembly and then out of that into the Master Cylinder? Is there a proportioning valve anywhere?

Please, I really need help with this. The car is not safe.

 

[ohfosho]

get the car on to a gravel parking lot and try many styles of braking. probably having some one or 2 people (on both sides of the car) there to tell you which wheel locks up and which one doesnt might help. if one is indeed grabbing harder/faster than the other, then replace the one that is slowest to grab. it could be partly clogged/corroded inside. there may be a rebuild kit for these calipers... might be an idea if you want to open it up and really find out why. you may have to open up both to see a difference though.


if it is not the braking system, then it is your subframe... tell us what has been done and when, to do with your subframe.

 

[rcsavage]

well i have taken the car off the road for a short time while i'm getting the sub-frame recall performed. the right rear nut broke loose and i cant tighten it so that corner is loose. (dont worry im not driving it). But i had this problem before the sub-frame let go. and like i said before the caliper is brand new and works fine. the caliper is covered in surface rust from not being used, which leads me to believe that its not a suspension issue, but some sort of partial blockage, or a proportioning valve malfunction.

 

[ohfosho]

well it could be a blockage near the master cylinder, or ABS setups, but unless your fluid is black and never been changed... or the cap has been off, that would be very rare. i would suspect more a kink in a line somewhere, rather than an internal blockage.

start with your subframe though. and then get into the flex hoses. they are a more likely spot to clog (could be much like the rear brake flex hose issues we all have) than hardlines... well just scan over the hard lines good, and make sure there is no damage/kinks.

 

[rcsavage]

Your thinking the hard line might be kinked somewhere? I remember the problem manifesting itself as slowly developing, but I will visually scan the line. Anyone have experience with a failing proportioning valve though?

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Have you had the ABS pump bled since the last time the brake system was opened up? Did the problems begin to manifest themselves after any work was done on the brake system, or after any work was done in the driver's side of the engine compartment? Does the ABS idiot light actually work (ie. not removed or taped-over) and have you pulled the ABS codes?

Remember, pulling left can be due to either a left brake braking more effectively than the others, or a right brake braking less effectively than the others. I would also *not* consider the presence of surface rust, to be an indication that a caliper is not working correctly. I've seen many calipers rust in a very short period of time after installation, that are working correctly. So look into the right-front caliper as well.

Unlike the other three main lines, the left-front line comes directly from the ABS pump. So after you've verified that the right-front caliper is working correctly, start looking at the left-front line from the ABS pump to the frame-rail mount where the flexible lines attaches.

First, look to see if any significant rust is present anywhere along the line. If so, trace the entire line to look for signs of severe corrosion. Next, bleed both front calipers into indvidual large semi-transpartent containers to see if the is any difference in color (compare directly), indicating contamination or internal rust damage to one of the lines. Also look for suspended solids and/or metal fragments which can partially block a line passage. It would also probably be a good idea to heavily bleed *all* the lines.