Pulled codes on my 92, some quick questions..

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SuperHO

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clicky

Just follow the steps outlined on the first half of this page to get the intake torn off the car.

As far as taking it apart, it's all about the 12mm bolts holding the runners to the plenum and the couplers. Just start dismantling stuff...but I'd advise against seperating the runners, as they are a BITCH to get back together again.

Just remember where you pulled everything off from...and rememeber to leave the hose clamps on the couplers loose when reinstalling the intake, otherwise it won't fit. :thumb:
 

plethaus

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Thanks for the info! I will probably take a crack at it tomorrow morning since the weather is nice and I still have an extra car to drive around in case the SHO ends up sitting for a couple weeks.

Is that $32 intake gasket set from RCM Automotive Performance worth getting? If I go through the trouble of yanking the intake off I'd like to just replace everything while I'm in there.

edit: Wow, that write up on SHO Phoenix Project is great... that's always a nice benefit of having a car with an enthusiast following, free guides and explanations :thumb:
 
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plethaus

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I tried unplugging the MAF to see what would happen...

I started the car and let it idle for a bit with the MAF plugged in as normal. Idle was a little rough and surged +/- 50 rpms. Unplugged MAF, settled into smoother 900rpm idle without surging. Plug MAF back in.. back to surging.

I tried taking it for a drive without the MAF plugged in. Seemed to run stronger. With the MAF plugged in I can barely scratch 2nd gear, with it unplugged I got healthy wheelspin.

I think I should try cleaning the sensor elements in the MAF. I'm not sure how though. I can see them inside the tube/tunnel but I don't see how to reach them. How does one go about cleaning them?
 

SuperHO

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If you can, remove the sensor from the MAF housing using those stupid tamper-proof hex keys and spray the shit outta it using electrical parts cleaner. Comes in an arosol can and usually costs about $4 at an auto parts store. If you can't get the sensor off, buy the same stuff, but don't spray as liberally. The engine don't like ingesting that stuff. After you hose it down with the parts cleaner, let it sit for a bit, and try to run the car again. If it still craps out, time to head to the boneyard to see if you can pilfer another MAF.
 

plethaus

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When the MAF is unplugged, does the car still use the O2 sensors for readings or is it completely running off of some "default" mode?
 

plethaus

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Cleaning the MAF right now (bought the tamper-proof Torx bit to take it out of the housing...) We'll see what happens...

I noticed that only one of the torx screws was in the MAF, the other one is completely missing. Could this cause a problem? It seemed to be firmly mounted still..

edit: Same deal after cleaning..
 
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SuperHO

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Yeah...when you unplug the MAF, the 'puter reverts to default mode, but IIRC, it also pulls signal from the MAP sensor bolted to the firewall (ECU geeks, step in and kick me in the balls if I'm mis-informing this poor fellow). At this point, if it's running good on the factory default setting, then I'd suspect a bad MAF sensor.
 

plethaus

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Alright.. one thing I just tried doing is unplugging the IAC's electrical connector while the car was idling.

With it plugged in, car running at operating temp, the car idles at about 950-1000rpm. When I unplugged the IAC, the idle dropped lower to about 750-800rpms. Is this normal behavior?
 

Mr Anonymous

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plethaus said:
Alright.. one thing I just tried doing is unplugging the IAC's electrical connector while the car was idling.

With it plugged in, car running at operating temp, the car idles at about 950-1000rpm. When I unplugged the IAC, the idle dropped lower to about 750-800rpms. Is this normal behavior?
Yes, it is normal when unmetered air is entering the intake tract.

Otherwise, unplugging the IAC should stall the motor -- if not immediately, within a few seconds.
 

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