PTU fluid replacement interval?

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Wbaubl1

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I did a search and didn’t find much on how often to perform the service. Since I have the 2010 it’s pretty expensive. $170 at ford. The previous owner had a reliable family
Owned shop that would perform it for him every 6k Miles. That seems like over **** if you’re paying dealer price. Would once a year be good?

I’m at 80k miles and I drive 40-60 miles Monday through Friday, and drive in stop and go traffic and highway cruising speeds.

Thanks!
 

SM105K

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I plan on changing mine every 20K miles.
 

SHOdded

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Performance driving all the time or otherwise known as leadfooting - 10K, otherwise 30K if mixed driving. Highway only driving you can stretch it out further, but establish a baseline first and use a GOOD product. RDU changeout is at 2x the PTU interval you choose to do.

Writeups are on ecoboostperformanceforum.com in the HOWTO section. Not very different from other platforms that share the 3.5 transverse AWD layout.
 

Wbaubl1

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Performance driving all the time or otherwise known as leadfooting - 10K, otherwise 30K if mixed driving. Highway only driving you can stretch it out further, but establish a baseline first and use a GOOD product. RDU changeout is at 2x the PTU interval you choose to do.

Writeups are on ecoboostperformanceforum.com in the HOWTO section. Not very different from other platforms that share the 3.5 transverse AWD layout.

Thanks a lot!
 

Wbaubl1

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Performance driving all the time or otherwise known as leadfooting - 10K, otherwise 30K if mixed driving. Highway only driving you can stretch it out further, but establish a baseline first and use a GOOD product. RDU changeout is at 2x the PTU interval you choose to do.

Writeups are on ecoboostperformanceforum.com in the HOWTO section. Not very different from other platforms that share the 3.5 transverse AWD layout.

Yikes, I hope the RDU fluid has been changed before. What is the factory recommendation for the RDU?
 

geophb

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I say 50k for RDU.
When i Bought my 2010 had 133k. I am almost positive ptu and rdu had original factory fluid because it had the original spark plugs still. Fluid looked fine when changed btw
 

Wbaubl1

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I say 50k for RDU.
When i Bought my 2010 had 133k. I am almost positive ptu and rdu had original factory fluid because it had the original spark plugs still. Fluid looked fine when changed btw

Ok, good to know. Thanks.
 

SHOdded

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the interval is floating for the RDU just like for the PTU, based on your driving conditions. That's why the rule of thumb no more than every other PTU fluid change. Yes, RDUs do fail, but much less frequently.

Lifetime fill per Ford :nut:
 

Wbaubl1

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the interval is floating for the RDU just like for the PTU, based on your driving conditions. That's why the rule of thumb no more than every other PTU fluid change. Yes, RDUs do fail, but much less frequently.

Lifetime fill per Ford :nut:

When you said GOOD product for the ptu & rdu, would I expect good products if I had them replaced at ford? Or maybe a DG certified place?
 

SHOdded

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Some dealers will put in what you bring them. Most will go Motorcraft, and a few will do BG if the offer BG services. Trick is finding a dealer that will service the diffs.

Redline is probably the best you can get - Lightweight Shockproof specifically. Works in both units. But there are other choices from Amsoil, Royal Purple etc. Again, as with engine oil, change frequency is the most important factor.
 

Wbaubl1

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Some dealers will put in what you bring them. Most will go Motorcraft, and a few will do BG if the offer BG services. Trick is finding a dealer that will service the diffs.

Redline is probably the best you can get - Lightweight Shockproof specifically. Works in both units. But there are other choices from Amsoil, Royal Purple etc. Again, as with engine oil, change frequency is the most important factor.

Gotcha.....a reputable performance shop near me (revolution automotive) will do everything, and even inspect/drain/remove any oil or sludge in the intercooler system. Unless I bring fluid they use motorcraft with additives. They said that’s what they use on the awd rally cars.
 

SHOdded

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i would bring my own fluid. all awd systems are not the same. the ptu is a clutchless "differential", basically just a gearbox, for example. No additives, just pick a better fluid to start with. Redline is easily available from Amazon, and doesn't cost much more than Mobil1 or Valvoline etc.
 

6500rpm

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On the PP cars with a drain plug, has anyone just drained and then used a suction gun to refill back up through the drain hole? I have to double check, but I thought the PTU holds 18oz. Seems like it would be easy enough to measure what you drain and then just refill that amount (or 18oz) back up through the drain plug hole and cover it with your finger tip and quickly put the plug back in without loosing anything much. Seems like a quick easy alternative.
 

geophb

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Don't need to measure with a fill hole on the side like that. If car is on level surface the bottom of the fill hole is the correct amount. I used the pointy looking gear oil jug then put a long hose over the top of the motor and into the fill plug, then just squeezed it in. Any extra will just run out the hole.
 

Wbaubl1

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i would bring my own fluid. all awd systems are not the same. the ptu is a clutchless "differential", basically just a gearbox, for example. No additives, just pick a better fluid to start with. Redline is easily available from Amazon, and doesn't cost much more than Mobil1 or Valvoline etc.

Thank you!
 

Wbaubl1

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i would bring my own fluid. all awd systems are not the same. the ptu is a clutchless "differential", basically just a gearbox, for example. No additives, just pick a better fluid to start with. Redline is easily available from Amazon, and doesn't cost much more than Mobil1 or Valvoline etc.
Is this the stuff? Sorry for being such a rookie.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/redl...pc&gclid=CLnI6-Kxg90CFT2VswodkZMIhg&gclsrc=ds

https://www.americanmuscle.com/redl...pc&gclid=CLnq1oGyg90CFUmMswodi-ICCg&gclsrc=ds
 

Wbaubl1

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6500rpm

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Don't need to measure with a fill hole on the side like that. If car is on level surface the bottom of the fill hole is the correct amount. I used the pointy looking gear oil jug then put a long hose over the top of the motor and into the fill plug, then just squeezed it in. Any extra will just run out the hole.

Nope, the fill hole on the 13+ PP has a temp sensor in it with a shield and it's buried behind the down pipe. The Drain plug on the other hand is easy to access. I might be the acid test, but I figured after you drain the PTU, it might be a simple option to just fill a suction gun with 18oz, or whatever you recovered as long as you don't have any leaks and trust the initial fill was correct, and inject it back in through the drain hole. Some have stated that they fill through the vent tube, but in my mind it's kind of counter productive since it's trying to fill and vent through the same hole at the same time. If you force feed it through the drain hole with a suction gun, air vents through the vent tube naturally. Just pop the fill tube out and stick your finger over the hole after all the new fluid's injected and quickly install the plug with minimal loss. That's the idea in theory....I'll have to post how it works out.

As for the RDU, Ford has an extra exhaust hanger (probably for the N.A. engine exhaust) right behind the RDU plug that interferes with access a bit. If you have a sawzall, do yourself a favor and cut that sucker off flush to buy a bit more room for servicing. It's no more than extra clutter.
 

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