Prospective purchase advice

[Subietech]

Hey everyone, new to the forum.
My wife and I are looking to purchase a 4th gen SHO in the upcoming months and I had a few questions before settling on one.
1) Are there any major things I should be on the lookout as far as common problems I could find on a general inspection or test drive? I am an automotive technician (Subaru) so I feel confident checking it out but obviously I’m not as up to date on the TSB’s and such for this as a ford tech might be.
2) I am very interested in the package which includes ACC, LDW, park assist, etc. I know that this is not available with the PP. Once we get the car I have plans on doing bolt-ons (likely LMS) including intake/exhaust/t-stat/plugs/tune and eventually meth injection. Are there any concerns with doing these upgrades without the PP to provide added cooling etc.? I’m sure I could at a trans cooler if necessary but this will be a daily driver and I don’t want to tear it up needlessly.

Thanks in advance you guys, from my reading over the past few months you all seem like a great group of people and very helpful and knowledgeable. I’m looking forward to joining the EcoBoost club!

 

[Lostneye]

Welcome.
1) Not a lot that shouldn't be routine when inspecting a used car. The PTU(power transfer unit or transfer case coming off the trans) is the weak point in the driveline, but without inspecting the fluid there isn't much to tell the shape it's in. A natural gas smell and or fluid coming out the vent tube may be a sign it's going bad. Changing the fluid regularly seems to keep them healthy. The water pump is behind the timing cover and while not particularly failure prone it is a lot of labor to change and if not caught can dump coolant into the oil and take the motor out. Rest is normal stuff including turbo things you should be used to if working on Subies
2)As with any car maintenance is key. Preferable to use quality synthetic oil and have a fluid change schedule including the PTU and these cars are relatively reliable. Plenty of non PP cars with the mods you are looking at.

 

[SM105K]

Park assist comes on the PP's. My 13 PP has it. Basically everything Lostneye has said from what I have researched has been spot on.

 

[sperold]

There are 2013 model SHOs that have all the assisted parking features as well as PP, but they are rare.

Turbos, water pump, and Power Transfer Unit (PTU) are the areas of concern.

 

[Subietech]

I was corrected on another post in here, I’m actually looking at a 5th gen (probably ‘16). I was mistakenly under the impression that 13+ was all 4th gen. My wife doesn’t want to go any older than 15-16

 

[6500rpm]

Any idea what year(s). I'm bias to the 13+ MY and I think you'll find a lot of out of the box benefits with a PP car. You're a Tech so it's just back to basics stuff...Look for leaks, check the condition of the fluid(s), scan it and check for DTC's and make sure the monitors have ran and passed so you know nothings being hidden. Road test, road test, road test- listen for drivetrain and suspension noises, vibrations, and the general stuff you do every day. Mine has 50k+ miles now and it's smooth as glass, it's like driving 80mph down the highway on your couch. Last, lower miles are your friend in terms of PTU, RDU, water pump type things. Anything you get over 40K miles I'd change the PTU and RDU fluids and use a good synthetic oil. Check to see if it has summer tires or not. I was in the same shoes as you about 2 years ago when I found mine, take your time and shop around-if you can get a Ford Oasis report on it from a dealer, a friend, or maybe one of us will hook you up so you know the service history. Enjoy, it's a great ride.

 

[ridered74]

Any SHO's that you go to look at, have them pop the hood before starting the car and touch the engine to verify it is cold. When starting cold, listen for a rattle for a second or two when first started. If you hear the rattle, either knock a couple grand off the price or move on to the next one.

If it has a power sun shade, verify that it works. Move all the air controls and verify that they work, heat and AC included. When you test drive it, turn with the wheel turned fully left and fully right at slow speeds and make sure you don't hear any clicking noises.

I also like to take a flashlight and look underneath to make sure there aren't any oily wet spots. If you see a particularly bad looking spot sometimes it helps convince them to knock some money off the price.

Most important, be ready to walk away. Most of the dealers I visited kept calling me weeks after I had visited them, offering various things from gift cards to knocking money off their price. These cars typically do not sell fast, so take your time buying one and have comps from other dealers at your fingertips when you walk in. The dealer will have lots of unrealistic comps at their disposal to try to convince you that their price is market value.

 

[tech10002]

I was corrected on another post in here, I’m actually looking at a 5th gen (probably ‘16). I was mistakenly under the impression that 13+ was all 4th gen. My wife doesn’t want to go any older than 15-16

If it’s definitely 15-16, I’d go for the 16 simply because of Sync 3 being standard. It’s vastly superior to My Ford Touch. You can upgrade the 15, but there are potential issues with upgrading like ability to update maps later on nav equipped APIMs, and it will probably cost you more to upgrade than the price difference between a 15 and 16 anyway. Good luck with the hunt. I passed up a few before I found the right deal on my 16.

 

[dinojc86]

I purchased my 2015 two weeks ago and I recommend you get the PP, especially if you are into modifications and upgrades. I watched the market for a few months to find what I wanted and I was lucky to get one with only 10k miles. There should be a 7 year / 100k mile powertrain warranty still in place, make sure you get it. Good Luck

 

[Subietech]

So am I correct in understanding that 2015 (MyFord touch / sync 2) does not have support for Apple CarPlay? That may be a dealbreaker for my wife lol

 

[Subietech]

And is there a way to tell by the VIN to identify if the vehicle has the PP? Lots of cars for sale online don’t specify lots of the options and some even say “power package” when they don’t actually have it equipped.

 

[XSHOckerX]

Any SHO's that you go to look at, have them pop the hood before starting the car and touch the engine to verify it is cold. When starting cold, listen for a rattle for a second or two when first started. If you hear the rattle, either knock a couple grand off the price or move on to the next one.

If it has a power sun shade, verify that it works. Move all the air controls and verify that they work, heat and AC included. When you test drive it, turn with the wheel turned fully left and fully right at slow speeds and make sure you don't hear any clicking noises.

I also like to take a flashlight and look underneath to make sure there aren't any oily wet spots. If you see a particularly bad looking spot sometimes it helps convince them to knock some money off the price.

Most important, be ready to walk away. Most of the dealers I visited kept calling me weeks after I had visited them, offering various things from gift cards to knocking money off their price. These cars typically do not sell fast, so take your time buying one and have comps from other dealers at your fingertips when you walk in. The dealer will have lots of unrealistic comps at their disposal to try to convince you that their price is market value.

Whats that rattle you speak of when its cold and you turn it on?

 

[dinojc86]

And is there a way to tell by the VIN to identify if the vehicle has the PP? Lots of cars for sale online don’t specify lots of the options and some even say “power package” when they don’t actually have it equipped.

You can tell if it has the PP by the front seats with the two tone suede and the suede steering wheel. I don't know if the VIN indicates the option.

 

[rubydist]

the PP has a different axle ratio, which is on the door decal with the vin and other build info. I don't recall the axle codes right off, but I know I looked it up and posted it in another thread on here, so you can search for PP axle ratio and find it.

 

[SM105K]

So am I correct in understanding that 2015 (MyFord touch / sync 2) does not have support for Apple CarPlay? That may be a dealbreaker for my wife lol

You are correct. However, you can update to Sync 3 if you are savvy. There is a thread floating around exactly detailing how this is done.

Also biggest things with the PP cars: SHO PERFORMANCE PKG -inc: performance brake pads, EPAS calibrated steering, ESC track mode, 3.16 final drive ratio, 20" machined aluminum wheels w/painted pockets, P245/45R20 summer performance tires, tire mobility kit, sport tuned suspension, unique shocks & springs, alcantara suede steering wheel *Deletes STD spare tire* Also IIRC correctly: The trans cooler is visible through the front grill.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

Subje,

I would recommend 13+ and the regular MFT SYNC DID NOT come with Apple Car Play. The SYNC3 was for 2016 and above models. There is a retro fit kit out there that will upgrade the MFT to SYNC3. Pricey but not overly difficult to install. $1500 for NON NAV and $2100 WITH

Design wise I like the 2013 better. Definite good words on the PTU, Water Pumps and Turbos. Everything in the owners manual section regarding fluid changes at least half if not third. Spark Plugs call for 100K I believe I did mine at 25K. Partially due to the LMS Tune and get the upgraded ones if available. I also did PTU, Coolant and Transmission flush at 40K even though the owners manual says 100K Speaking of transmission there is a dipstick to check but kind of difficult to access between the air filter box and block.

My rear struts went out at about 30K but not overly difficult to replace.

Cabin Air Filter.....manual says 20K I would at minimum inspect at 10K trust me it will be dirtier than you think.

Good ride, and having two previous SELS to compare the Taurus is nice. Sedan like touring ride but sporty looks and comfort. Find one as loaded as possible but most SHO's are. Very rare to find a RS 400A package (Rapid Spec ordering is the base no options or stand alone options like NAV/Moonroof etc..

Each model had the RS *** the 00 is the base model for every sub fleet......example 100 (SE) 200(SEL) 300(Limited and 400 (SHO) some of the ordering packages got simplifies around 2014 I believe. They took some features out of both packages example SHO 401A and 402A They combined on other models but not necessarily for the better. Example 2013 SEL had Ambient lighting 2014 it didn't.

If you find one with decent mileage perform the usual post purchase items like I do, plugs, filters, tune up etc...


You definitely want a model with the back up sensors AND Camera the rear deck is higher than it looks especially when backing up. The Camera projects a clear image and the positioning is right in the Ford Emblem on the trunk logo so pretty much out of sight. If you can get Active Park Assist I believe those models have (PPT) Predictive Path Turning which when you turn the wheel a indicator tied to the EPAS will curve the back up guide. The camera also has a green/yellow/red distance indicator as you get closer the colors change from green to red and the back up sensor beep will flash louder and more frequently.

Try to get a model with 20" which most SHO's are. that will fill in the fender well nicely but not so much that it will scrape the inside.

Stereo: Others may disagree but in my opinion the factory stereo system is pretty decent. The real weak link in the full enjoyment is the speakers. You can have a $500-1000 system but when pushed through the dime store lowest bidder speakers that's what you get. Yes even the models with SONY. The weak speakers are pretty much the same in all stereo systems but if you order from dealer there is a mark up because of the SONY name.

HINT: Don't replace OEM speakers with OEM, there are way better options for the 6X8 size, look at Kenwood, Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate etc...

Aside from that good luck in the search. One more item and more of a FYI. 2010 and above have a cap less fuel system where a spring loaded door opening reduces the need for a fuel cap. I went one step further and got the Ford OEM factory security cap. The design is supposed to keep anything larger than a normal fuel hose from opening but there has been one hopefully isolated case of foreign objects......Sugar or Diesel fuel I believe.

 

[Lostneye]

Subje,

I would recommend 13+ and the regular MFT SYNC DID NOT come with Apple Car Play. The SYNC3 was for 2016 and above models. There is a retro fit kit out there that will upgrade the MFT to SYNC3. Pricey but not overly difficult to install. $1500 for NON NAV and $2100 WITH

Design wise I like the 2013 better. Definite good words on the PTU, Water Pumps and Turbos. Everything in the owners manual section regarding fluid changes at least half if not third. Spark Plugs call for 100K I believe I did mine at 25K. Partially due to the LMS Tune and get the upgraded ones if available. I also did PTU, Coolant and Transmission flush at 40K even though the owners manual says 100K Speaking of transmission there is a dipstick to check but kind of difficult to access between the air filter box and block.

My rear struts went out at about 30K but not overly difficult to replace.

Cabin Air Filter.....manual says 20K I would at minimum inspect at 10K trust me it will be dirtier than you think.

Good ride, and having two previous SELS to compare the Taurus is nice. Sedan like touring ride but sporty looks and comfort. Find one as loaded as possible but most SHO's are. Very rare to find a RS 400A package (Rapid Spec ordering is the base no options or stand alone options like NAV/Moonroof etc..

Each model had the RS *** the 00 is the base model for every sub fleet......example 100 (SE) 200(SEL) 300(Limited and 400 (SHO) some of the ordering packages got simplifies around 2014 I believe. They took some features out of both packages example SHO 401A and 402A They combined on other models but not necessarily for the better. Example 2013 SEL had Ambient lighting 2014 it didn't.

If you find one with decent mileage perform the usual post purchase items like I do, plugs, filters, tune up etc...


You definitely want a model with the back up sensors AND Camera the rear deck is higher than it looks especially when backing up. The Camera projects a clear image and the positioning is right in the Ford Emblem on the trunk logo so pretty much out of sight. If you can get Active Park Assist I believe those models have (PPT) Predictive Path Turning which when you turn the wheel a indicator tied to the EPAS will curve the back up guide. The camera also has a green/yellow/red distance indicator as you get closer the colors change from green to red and the back up sensor beep will flash louder and more frequently.

Try to get a model with 20" which most SHO's are. that will fill in the fender well nicely but not so much that it will scrape the inside.

Stereo: Others may disagree but in my opinion the factory stereo system is pretty decent. The real weak link in the full enjoyment is the speakers. You can have a $500-1000 system but when pushed through the dime store lowest bidder speakers that's what you get. Yes even the models with SONY. The weak speakers are pretty much the same in all stereo systems but if you order from dealer there is a mark up because of the SONY name.

HINT: Don't replace OEM speakers with OEM, there are way better options for the 6X8 size, look at Kenwood, Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate etc...

Aside from that good luck in the search. One more item and more of a FYI. 2010 and above have a cap less fuel system where a spring loaded door opening reduces the need for a fuel cap. I went one step further and got the Ford OEM factory security cap. The design is supposed to keep anything larger than a normal fuel hose from opening but there has been one hopefully isolated case of foreign objects......Sugar or Diesel fuel I believe.

I'm waiting on my nav APIM to show up any day now but I am all in on the SYNC3 swap for under $500.00. Non-nav APIMs are cheaper.

I agree on staying ahead of fluid change recommendations especially if tuned. Plugs as well, there cars are relatively sensitive to them and figure 25k max with a tune, LMS recommends 20K. Stock SP534s are fine.

I didn't care for the stock Sony system but that is definitely subjective and I admit I am pretty judgmental when it comes to that. It is a pain to do more than upgrade speakers and add a sub as you need to spend $300 on an integration piece to bypass the Sony amp.

 

[ridered74]

Whats that rattle you speak of when its cold and you turn it on?

Timing chain getting stretched out. On my 2011 it had the noise when I bought it with just over 100K miles on it. I never did replace it, and drove the car til it had 168K miles on it and sold it, but it probably could have gone bad at any time. I was lucky.

 

[Jeff2017]

The non-PP cars are actually faster with a tune than the PP cars. Apparently the gear ratios on the non-PP cars are more optimal for the LMS tune. If you are not tracking the car, I don't think all of the PP add ons are really needed. As a tech you are no doubt well versed in the importance of fluid changes. As said above, the PTU is the weak link and needs extra attention especially with a tune.

 

[Lostneye]

The non-PP cars are actually faster with a tune than the PP cars. Apparently the gear ratios on the non-PP cars are more optimal for the LMS tune.

Yes, the PP cars need an extra shift to make it to the 1/4 mile which negates any benefit the gearing may have.