Problems with newest SHO

[96lt1]

hey guys, i jsut got ahold of a green plus and i have noticed a few things that greatly differ from my current 89 i also drive.
the first is the clutch, in the 89 the clutch eases into grabbing as i let the pedal out. the plus, the moment u take ure foot off the clutch, ure in gear.
second, the gas pedal is much easier to press on the 89 vs the plus.
third, the cable shifter on the 89 moves soooo much easier than the rod shifter on the plus. the plus also goes into gear much harder, my arm starts gettin sore after bein in it all day. fourth, the 89 has WAYYY more pep and response than the plus. the plus is peppy, but not near what the 89 can do. my brother and i raced the 2 and i got spanked in the plus.
i am clueless as what to do on all of the above. only thing i gotta ask though....the plus uses a little oil and has a small leak in the y-pipe. could this be a big HP rob?? when i say the 89 is faster we r talkin a LOT faster. my brother was drivin the 89 and today we switched for a few days. the first thing he noticed was how under powered the plus was. first thing i noticed was how the 89 felt like a rocket vs a sled. if anyone has any info to provide on the following i would greatly appreciate it. this green plus will be such a nice car when i get it runnin right but for now its a HUGE pain in the ass!!

thanx

Sean thumb

<small>[ November 14, 2003, 03:29 PM: Message edited by: 96lt1 ]</small>

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

lol, the '89 OWNZ! lol

1. clutch on the '92 might just need to be adjusted via the 'self adjusting' ratchet.

2. the '89s are known for VERY sensitive throttle linkage, and kick in the pants throttle response. the '92 might just need to have its cable lubed though.

3. might be clutch related, otherwise... Id check trans fluid, and would suggest a flush

4. no comment.

5. yes, an exhaust leak will effect performance, and how the motor runs if the leak is upwards of the O2s

 

[AutoSHO]

Check for oil in the plugs wells, etc. on the plus. And clean the MAF.

As for the high shifter effort, I have a solution. Mine felt really stiff and hard to move. Took it apart, and greased the ball and socket, and (biggest worry) the spot where the rod enters the front of the box. I had to grease that spot once, drive around for a week, then pull back that boot and re-grease it. It works great now!

 

[96lt1]

thanx for all ure info both of ya. i wanna hit on a couple of things though so i can understand totally.

NotSoSlo:

1)ure saying **** the throttle cable right??

2) u say clutch related, u mean like a bad clutch?? what r the chances is a non stock clutch?? -ill check the fluid, never thought of that.

3) the cat has a small pencil sized hole in it, i have another y-pipe im gonna swap, hopefully this will help.

4) ITS A 91, NOT A 92!! finger j/k wink

And AutoSHo:

1) how and with what should i clean the maf with?? what till a clean MAF possibly make better??

2) i will try the **** thing. with what did u **** the rod shifter??

both of ya, thanx, this is the info i was hopin i would get. anyone else?????

LAter

Sean thumb

 

[AutoSHO]

I typically clean the MAF with a light spray of Electrical contact cleaner. Its available at any auto parts store.

I used wheel bearing grease to grease the shifter assy. Is the shifting notchy or does the whole shifter just feel heavy and hard to move?

 

[96lt1]

AutoSHO:
Is the shifting notchy or does the whole shifter just feel heavy and hard to move?

both, when i go to select the next gear, it kinda like gets held up and then bumps into gear. kinda like its ruubbing/bouncing into gear.

Sean

 

[AutoSHO]

Well, I would guess that lubing the shifter will help, but not alleviate the problem. Sounds more like a TOB/Blocking Rings problem.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

yes, and as i said... try a tranny flush, and some nice fresh fluid thumb


yes to the clutch cable ****.

 

[96lt1]

ok, one more stupid question. is there a drainplug to drain the mtx fluid or do i have to syphon it out?? if it wasnt 30 degrees out i would look for myself.

thanx

Sean

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

some people remove one of the tranny case bolts to use as a drain (forget which one), but there are possible problems with that method.

there is also info on the forum (use a search) for a drill and tap method to install a drain plug.

personally, I use a 12volt fluid pump to swap the fluid.

 

[Bizzy]

NotSoSlowSHO:
some people remove one of the tranny case bolts

Close, but no cigar. The bolt you're referring to is a detent plunger bolt that is located toward the bottom of the tranny when it's bolted up. You can do it this way, I have.

Word of extreme caution! If you take that bolt out to drain the fluid, do not move the car or the shifter, don't even bump it. If you do, the plunger and ball bearing can spring out of place and then you're in a world of hurt. If you remove the bolt, always use teflon tape on the threads before putting it back. (Not teflon dope, but tape...very important)

Edit: Sean, it sounds to me like you should replace the fluid first to see if it helps the notchiness. If not then it could be a blocking ring related problem.

To my understanding, when the clutch engages right off the floor (considering you've already tried to adjust the cable) it indicates a worn pressure plate. If the clutch engages higher up (past the half way point) then it indicates a bad disk.

Performance issues could be caused from the lack of a 60k, bad spark plugs or wires, or a combination of all the above. Get those things taken care of and I bet you'll feel more pep in her step. (arr arr arr)

<small>[ November 14, 2003, 10:15 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

thanks for the correction beth wink

 

[96lt1]

cool, as if i already dont have enough goin on in my garage, just ask justin (foxwulfe) he can vouch. i have 2 tauruses in there right now with 3 motors in there also. sunday ill have 4 motors in there and one taurus will be in as many pieces as i can make it (parts car). as much as i hate to do it, i am gonna have to drive this car with all these issues for a week or 2. nothing ****** me off more than limping a car around in below-average health. unless i had no job and a 3 car garage though, i have no choice. thanx everyone for the good info....ill keep ya all postesd on my progress. if i get ****** off at the wagon sunday puttin the motor in i may end up draggin it outta the garage and doin some of this crap to the plus. y couldnt i have stayed into MODEL RC cars like when i was younger?? they were so much easier to work on and they took up a lot less space!!
lemme tell ya how close i am to drivin a honda sometimes!!! headbang

later

Sean thumb

 

[Foxwulfe]

A transaxle fluid change does make a difference in shifting, plus it is a good practice. Do not even mess with the detent plunger bolt, because, as Beth noted, bad things happen when you do not what them to. Instead, fish a small hose (kind of like aquarium air hose, but larger, available at a hardware store) down to the bottom from the fill plug. Siphon the old fluid out, completely. Using that method gets more out than the plunger bolt way (and is less prone to error).

I like Redline MTL for the earlier transaxles, and D4-ATF for the later ones (experimented with both). Expensive stuff, though!

Do not expect this to make a really big difference, or to fix a problem that it is not.

Justin

<small>[ November 14, 2003, 11:10 PM: Message edited by: Foxwulfe ]</small>

 

[masho95]

Close, but no cigar. The bolt you're referring to is a detent plunger bolt that is located toward the bottom of the tranny when it's bolted up. You can do it this way, I have.

That's not the bolt you want to remove to drain the fluid Bizzy. You should be using the one to the left of it as you are looking at it, the shift shaft retaining bolt.

Word of extreme caution! If you take that bolt out to drain the fluid, do not move the car or the shifter, don't even bump it. If you do, the plunger and ball bearing can spring out of place and then you're in a world of hurt. If you remove the bolt, always use teflon tape on the threads before putting it back. (Not teflon dope, but tape...very important)

The ball bearing and spring can't come out unless there is alot of movement in the shift shaft internally. This is because the ball bearing and spring are behind the shift shaft (which is placing tension on the shaft) and the bolt holds tension on it on the opposite side.