problems after top and front 60k

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benjammin

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92 134k...Just finished the top and front...what a PITA. Now it feels like a loss of low end torque, Exhaust is noticably louder when you get on it, and the secondaries arent opening. At first I thought the secondaries were sticking open but I dont think thats the case, Im thinkin vacuum switch for the secondaries, But could the other issues be related to the cam sensor?

Its a long story but I ran into some problems with the seal behing the sensor and ended up ruining the brand new sensor I put on it. I had to put the old sensor back in, even though there was some oil on it when I originally took it off, it still worked.
 

Ocnaj

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Is it throwing any codes?(CE Light) If so check those first and go from there. Are you positive you reinstalled the timing belt correctly?
 

benjammin

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no codes at all. And yes Im sure the timing is correct. It seemed to run great right after the work was done. I didnt start to notice these symptoms till right before I noticed the leaking cam sensor seal. Except for the secondaries problem, Ive only had the car about a week or so, and since ive had it sometimes I could hear them open just fine and other times I could not hear them open at all
 

Ocnaj

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So it ran better before you ripped it apart and did the maintenance? Was it throwing any codes before hand?
 

benjammin

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it wasnt throwin any codes but the valve covers were leaking internally, and it had a cracked plug. Apparently I didnt get the seal in all the way behind the sensor and thats why it leaked.
 

Ocnaj

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What do you mean the valve cover was leaking 'internally'? Are you positive you put the plug wires back on correctly where they are supposed to be?

I'm not positive the Cam Sensor would cause the loss of low end. Someone else will chime in about that later I'm sure. But you would definitely feel it if the plug wires aren't in correct order.
 

Devin

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On my car the CPS caused random dying and bucking.

As far as the secondaries are concerned, are they open when you are idling? They should be open with the engine off, and closed with the engine on. If you pull the vac supply from the black canister on the back of the intake it should open the secondaries, so you can test it while not moving. If it works like that, you can rev it up to 4K (if it is a manual) in neutral using the TB.
 

typhoon5000

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I would look at the vacuum lines for the secondaries too. I had a crack develop from it rubbing on my valve cover and it couldn't hold a vacuum so the secondaries were open all of the time. I noticed it was harder to start, higher idle speed and a lag in low end torque also, until about 3500rpm of course. Even a small pin hole can grow quickly if you knicked the vacuum lines while r&ring the intake.
 

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