ok so i am in the middle of sanding down and priming my front end i have the hood done. i was wondering if anyone knows if i should wet sand and put a clear coat on top of the primer cause i will not be painting it for a while? here is my cardomain site its on the last page. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/263506
priming
- Thread starter zerg1024
- Start date
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Venom SHO s7
New Member
If you're not gonna paint it for a while, just leave it alone, dont even sand it yet.
If you sand it now, you're gonna end up with rock chips and gouges that will need to be resanded before you paint. Making your initial sanding pointless.
When you are ready for paint, use a sanding block with 320grit paper to block the primer, then go with some 400 or 500, then finish it with 600 or higher wetsand paper.
Then you ll be good to put sealer or even just spray basecoat on top of the primer.
If you sand it now, you're gonna end up with rock chips and gouges that will need to be resanded before you paint. Making your initial sanding pointless.
When you are ready for paint, use a sanding block with 320grit paper to block the primer, then go with some 400 or 500, then finish it with 600 or higher wetsand paper.
Then you ll be good to put sealer or even just spray basecoat on top of the primer.
smokin joe
SHO Member
exactly what he saidVenom SHO s7 said:
SHO_Driver
New Member
Primer is porous to help the paint adhere. I've seen rust appear on primered cars left out in the rain at few bodyshops. Maybe they didn't use a sealer? You could shoot a clearcoat on it but it will need to be sanded off when ready to paint. I've heard it helps if you wax the primered area to keep moisture out. But when I do a repair and am not painting right away I shoot it with rattle can colour until it goes to the paint booth.
Venom SHO s7
New Member
Actually, you don't want to hit bare metal unless you really have to. Reason for that is, the OEM e-coat is rust protection, once you sand it off, you need to either put etching primer on the bare metal, then seal it, or paint it so it doesnt rust.
DONT WAX anything that you plan on painting,
you're setting yourself up for big problems. Fish eyes all over paint, thats assuming your paint will even stick to it.
How long do you plan on leaving the hood in primer until you can paint it?
How are you going to paint it?
If you're not sure, i'd say just dont touch the fenders until you know you can paint it, then just do it all at once. That way youre not running the risk of it forming surface rust.
The way you did your hood should be fine for some time.
What was wrong with it in the first place? Just the peeling clear coat?
If so, you dont need to prime the whole panel, its just more sanding youre making for yourself.
Your fenders for examplel; feather edge the peeling clearcoat,scuff the whole panel, mask off several inches away from your feather edge, then prime that area only.
Another tip, when you mask and prime, dont get your primer all on the tape/paper, doing this will give you 'hard lines' when you pull the paper off. Hard lines are not only hard to sand off, but can end up showing through when you clear the panel.
DONT WAX anything that you plan on painting,
you're setting yourself up for big problems. Fish eyes all over paint, thats assuming your paint will even stick to it.
How long do you plan on leaving the hood in primer until you can paint it?
How are you going to paint it?
If you're not sure, i'd say just dont touch the fenders until you know you can paint it, then just do it all at once. That way youre not running the risk of it forming surface rust.
The way you did your hood should be fine for some time.
What was wrong with it in the first place? Just the peeling clear coat?
If so, you dont need to prime the whole panel, its just more sanding youre making for yourself.
Your fenders for examplel; feather edge the peeling clearcoat,scuff the whole panel, mask off several inches away from your feather edge, then prime that area only.
Another tip, when you mask and prime, dont get your primer all on the tape/paper, doing this will give you 'hard lines' when you pull the paper off. Hard lines are not only hard to sand off, but can end up showing through when you clear the panel.
HotRodKid
mmmmm ... turbo
DO NOT SANT TO BARE METAL !!!!
I cant stress that enough ...
the only reasons to sand that far are
1) chips / scratches that go that deep - even then, sand sparingly
2) dents - the sand paper you use on filler often takes you down to bare metal
3) rust repair - reason should be obvious
4) welding / panel replacement - same as #3
now if your paint is peeling, of couse youll want to sand down pretty far to get all the effected material off, but even then you want to be aware of how far your going, leave as much of the last layer (the e coat) on as possible
if spray primer was as good as e-coat, they would use it at the factory, becuase e-caoting a car is NOT cheap .... but its damn good at doing its job
I cant stress that enough ...
the only reasons to sand that far are
1) chips / scratches that go that deep - even then, sand sparingly
2) dents - the sand paper you use on filler often takes you down to bare metal
3) rust repair - reason should be obvious
4) welding / panel replacement - same as #3
now if your paint is peeling, of couse youll want to sand down pretty far to get all the effected material off, but even then you want to be aware of how far your going, leave as much of the last layer (the e coat) on as possible
if spray primer was as good as e-coat, they would use it at the factory, becuase e-caoting a car is NOT cheap .... but its damn good at doing its job
yea my hood was starting to rust under the paint and all so that is y i sanded it down to bare metal. i also used rust fix from duplicolor to take care of the rust. then i sanded that coat to put on the primer sealer and did 2 coats of that. then i sanded that and put the final 3 coats of the black primer on the hood.
so here is what i got from duplicolor Thank you for taking the time to contact us. The primer should be coated
if it is going to be subject to the elements. You can apply a clear coat
to help protect the primer, as primers do not have much UV resistance and
will more than likely fade rather quickly in heavy sunlight. It would be
best to topcoat the primer as soon as possible with a paint.
if it is going to be subject to the elements. You can apply a clear coat
to help protect the primer, as primers do not have much UV resistance and
will more than likely fade rather quickly in heavy sunlight. It would be
best to topcoat the primer as soon as possible with a paint.
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