power loss, engine stutter..feels like...

[DHMag]

i dropped a cylinder...but i havent. running codes tonite and my Check Oil light came on and never went off. i immediately shut off the car and checked the oil...stick was dry EEK!. i have seen other posts about the same situation as far as the engine stumbling upon take off but fine after 3 grand. codes came up with System Pass. is it the Crank Post Sensor ? i read it might be a stuck injector, can i test the injectors to see ? need help ASAP. Thanks...

*edit* it just started a few days ago and getting progressively worse. also, checked the secondaries, they work...
SDPATT - is the secondary accumulator (black plastic can) supposed to rattle ?

<small>[ August 03, 2002, 07:51 AM: Message edited by: DHMag ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

No, the secondary accumulator is not supposed to rattle. Even if the secondaries were stuck open, it wouldn't cause the engine to sputter and hesitate, just lack the normal amount of low end power. It would still run smoothly, just not powerfully.

When you say the "check oil" light, do you mean the yellow one? The yellow light is a low oil level warning which you should have received long before your dipstick was "bone dry." It is a cautionary indicator to let you know you haven't been checking your oil level often enough. No damage should have been done as long as the red light didn't come on.

The red oil light is a low oil pressure warning light and requires the instant shutdown of the engine to prevent further catrastrophic damage. If the red light came on while the engine was under load, something had to have failed to cause it. Either the oil pump, bearings or even the pressure sender itself. The yellow light may have saved you big in this case.

Since there are no error codes set, it must be something the EEC cannot monitor. Have you checked the plug wells for oil and pulled the front plugs to see what they look like?

You also need to check the exhaust system for failed cats and plugged piping. I have had two cats fail over the years, but it never caused sputtering, only a great loss of power at the higher rpms. This is probably not your situation.

Have you uplugged the MAF sensor to see if it smooths out the power below 3,000 rpm? You can also unplug the throttle position sensor to determine if it is causing the problem. Unplug only one sensor at a time when doing these tests.

The crankshaft position sensor (sends a signal to the EEC with the position of the crankshaft - three events per engine revolution) fails by completely cutting out the ignition system. No sputter, no hesitation, nothing but silence. Just like you turned off the ignition key. Doesn't sound like your case either.

It would be so much easier to witness the car's behavior in person rather that through the limited features of the written descriptions. I hope you can isolate the cause soon. If you have more information, let's hear it.

 

[DHMag]

sdpatt:
When you say the "check oil" light, do you mean the yellow one?

Have you checked the plug wells for oil and pulled the front plugs to see what they look like?

Have you uplugged the MAF sensor to see if it smooths out the power below 3,000 rpm?

It would be so much easier to witness the car's behavior in person rather that through the limited features of the written descriptions. I hope you can isolate the cause soon. If you have more information, let's hear it.

furthermore, heres what ive done so far. it started losing power and stuttereing Thursday, so i thought plug well oil. spent Friday afternoon wicking the plug wells dry. so far, cleaned the MAF, the IAC, replaced the TPS (whether it needed or not), now in the process of changing plugs. plugs im taking out are gapped at .058! (and look normal, so far) to replace the wires, wouldnt it be easier to remove the plenum ? if so, itll have to wait til i do my 60K. also, my problem does not start until after it been driven a while...when everything hos gotten all nice and hot. like if i drive around town, then park, and leave again, itll do it. or about 3/4 of my way to work (7 mile trip).

and Yes, Scott, it was the yellow oil light that came on...really freaked me out. its not the Crank Post Sensor, nor is it plugged cats or piping. i havent checked the MAF disconnection test yet, does it matter if its hot when i check it ?

its really ******* me off...this is my only source of transportation and i dont feel safe driving in the Metroplex with what seems like a dead cylinder. had to rearrange my date tonite, now shes coming over and i driving her truck wink

thanks Scott, for your thorough reply.

<small>[ August 03, 2002, 05:52 PM: Message edited by: DHMag ]</small>