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SteedaSVT

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Cap's for the most part are point less. A much better choice is a Yellow Top.

system that was in my 95 SHO
HU,Eclipse 54330 or something like that
Soundstream Exacts 6.3's Front's
Soundstream SVX4 x-over
no rears
Soundstream Picasso Pure Class a 4 channel
Soundstream 10.0 X2 sub amps
Cerwin Vega STroker D2.

No yellow top no cap no dimming no nothing. Upgrade the basic wiring you don't need that stuff.

Caps are a fancy way to make money for the companies. for 100dollars i would much rather get a yellow top and it will work alot better no matter what.
 

jedhead

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If anybody wants to test the limits of their stereo I highly recommend Telarc's recording of the 1812 Overture with digital cannons. It is the only CD that I have come across with a warning label for possible damage to the stereo system. I know my Alpine amp crowbars at little over half-volume. The breakers pop on my speakers at home hooked up to my old Sansui 9800 reciever rated at 225W RMS per channel 3/4 of the way up. I used to pull off the speaker covers to watch the 18" woofers try to reproduce the sounds that go down to 40hz on the recording. The whole house shakes when the cannons fire on the recording. When the cannon fire was recorded, the windows across the courtyard 100ft away was blown out.

Bob
 

Porkchop

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jedhead said:
If anybody wants to test the limits of their stereo I highly recommend Telarc's recording of the 1812 Overture with digital cannons. It is the only CD that I have come across with a warning label for possible damage to the stereo system. I know my Alpine amp crowbars at little over half-volume. The breakers pop on my speakers at home hooked up to my old Sansui 9800 reciever rated at 225W RMS per channel 3/4 of the way up. I used to pull off the speaker covers to watch the 18" woofers try to reproduce the sounds that go down to 40hz on the recording. The whole house shakes when the cannons fire on the recording. When the cannon fire was recorded, the windows across the courtyard 100ft away was blown out.

Bob

Im glad that I'm not the only one who knows about the 1812 trick. I did it off a mp3 cd I have and it still rocked the car. Something about that with 6 tweeters, 4 mids and 2 subs just gives me goose bumps :dribble:
 

SHOWYA

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SteedaSVT said:
Cap's for the most part are point less. A much better choice is a Yellow Top.

No yellow top no cap no dimming no nothing. Upgrade the basic wiring you don't need that stuff.

Caps are a fancy way to make money for the companies. for 100dollars i would much rather get a yellow top and it will work alot better no matter what.

Not really ... i have to disagree with you ... caps are made for rapid discharge and charge of large amounts of energy depending on its size and capacity. I had this 15 farad cap on my old 97 BMW M3(old? Good job gone ... good car gone!) had a yellow top and ran 4ga wire ... yes i agree with you no diming nothig like you said. installed this cap with 2ga to it from battery and 4ga wire to amps and it makes an audible difference (IT WORKS!) when subs are pumping hard because the amp(s) have the necessary juice when needed. Rule of thumb is 1 farad for 1000watts. I got this once because it was cheep. :thumb:
 

92sho16

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Capacitors only serve the purpose of temporary burst proctection and smoothing out spikes, if you want the real deal get a bigger battery or a second battery or a higher output alternator.
 

SteedaSVT

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I hope you had it metered to back up that claim of louder with a cap..
Not true. I do this everyday. I use the same BS line to get people to buy caps becuase i make more money off of it.

A CAP WILL NOT MAKE YOUR STEREO LOUDER. in fact when its discharging it puts extra strain on the charging system. it rapidly discharges yes! anyone ever talk about its charging rate? NOPE..

Im not trying to bust your balls or nothing im just letting you know. in fact its actually better to have 6 1/2farad caps than have 3 1farad caps becuase of the charging rate is alot shorter.

Just a heads up..
 

SHOWYA

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SteedaSVT I understand what you say about it not making your system louder, its true. But when your system is somewhat underpowered then adding the power needed will actually make you system sound louder because the power is leveled! The system plays as it should and therefore it sounds louder.

Same concept for a cars regular battery ... why do we switch to optima batteries (most people do especially with a sound system) ? Better energy source, handles loads better ... etc. Most cars you even notice your lights get brighter. Same for sound with a 'cap' ... you "notice" its louder.

Everybody has their own understanding of this and could go on and on. So ill leve it at that.
 

Porkchop

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Ok so some people think they arn't worth it and some people do. I personally think that if your drawing enough energy to dim your lights - usually at a stop or idle, something needs to be upgraded. I had to get a better battery (not yellow top) but according to consumers the second best battery out there.... with the upgraded CCA and RC rating and I still have some dimming of the interior lights.

Ive also hooked the battery tester at work up to my car and played my stereo with a heavy bass CD through the system at my NORMAL listening volume and settings and the stereo really killed the battery while running. I personally think that even a half cap will benefit a decent system to help prevent those deep spikes will aid in battery and alternator life.

Some people praise the optima batteries, but every one that has been sold out of my store has come back within 6 months defective. Who knows if they know WTF to do with a gel cell battery, but I know one kid who had too much thump in his car and had two of them and his system ate the battery for breakfast. To each their own thoughts and opinions, while you might not agree with them at least give them the benefit of the doubt. Great discussion starting .. keep it goin
 

SHO-93-ATX

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Hmmm...
I have Infinity 6x9's i think 175 watt each...
Pioneer DEH-P4400 head unit...
JL- W5's
1250 watt JL amp x2
Monster wiring
Infinity mid ranges - don't know watts.
Custom Box

sounds damn good.
Time to go out and buy w7's ;)
poundage + stomach ache = barf!
Ears ringing for a long time = sooner or later DEF.
doh!!! :rant:
 

SuperHO

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Both of my systems are shown in my sig, but let me elaborate....

In the '92..

Eclipse 3434 CD player in the EATC hole
All fresh wiring, 8GA for power, 10GA for speakers
Infiniti 6.5's in the doors
Infiniti 5x7's in the rear
1" dome tweeters on the doors
Rockford Fosgate Power Hx2 12" in a tuned vented box (tuned at 48hz)
Rockford Fosgate Power 501bd (tested by a friend of mine at 1700 watts peak output...set up for about 800 watts continuous)
Rockford Fosgate Punch 1 Farad cap (stops the lights from dimming on bass peaks)
4GA to the amp
8GA to the box

With a 48hz tone, I peaked out at 153db with the amp's gain at half way. :bonk:


In the '94

Pioneer DEH P-5500 cd player
Stock speakers on the factory amp
JL 6W0 in the factory sub enclosure ported at 50hz
Craig (circa 1987) 360 watt amp bridged to the sub

The amp's old, but hey, it still works and it was free. The factory box has a little too much airspace, but with the port, the difference is incredible.
 

SteedaSVT

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You hit that with one 12? Hmmm What mic?

Sorry but im not feelin it too much. With a Stroker 15D2 and 4k wrms i hit 151.

Maybe you where unwieghted with some 2 dollar mic.
 

SuperHO

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Well, given, the test was made in the back of a low budget car audio shop in georgia, and I damn near blew the sub. Right now, current estimates from highly trained ears (people in the high class car audio biz) is around 145db....still, not bad for a single 12 in a box it wasn't designed for.
 

SteedaSVT

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SuperHO said:
Well, given, the test was made in the back of a low budget car audio shop in georgia, and I damn near blew the sub. Right now, current estimates from highly trained ears (people in the high class car audio biz) is around 145db....still, not bad for a single 12 in a box it wasn't designed for.


Sorry not feelin it. I do this everyday of my life and 4HE 2's with 4 301m's in a ported box made by Yours truley hit 149. I suggest having it mic'd correctly with the mic Iasca uses before saying some nonsense. my ears tell me my one 10 hits at 170 jsut so you know
 

NoSlo

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Mine's a secret, unless you want to go for a ride... ;>

For the same reason I'm not posting pics on the internet of how my alarm brain, starter ****, or ignition **** is wired & mounted..stealth is a good thing!

(pardon me while I dodge black helicopters...)
 

MrSho

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Sony CDX-M8805X (Blackout)
Sony CDX-M610 (Blackout) was old unit... for sale BTW
RF Punch 500 Sub Amp
2 Infinity Kappa Perfect Subs... 10 inch
2 Infifnty Reference 6x9's... modified of course!
2 Infinity Reference 6 1/2's
1 Farad capacitor... Direct Connection
 

HoustinoJillian

name's JUSTIN
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pioneer deh-p 4600mp head unit with wired connector for ipod. everything else was stolen from my trunk right before thanksgiving. i will not be getting anything else until i get a good alarm.
 

mosho93

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Here she is, Soon to be All Eclipse!:

Pioneer 50x4 head unit
Kenwood Excelon KFC-X698 6x9's in the rear
Kenwood Excelon KFC-XR601 in the front
2-12" Eclipse SW8122dvc Aluminum Cone Woofers in a Dual Sealed Box
Kenwood KAC-7251 800 Watt 2 Channel
4ga. wire all throughout
 

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