Post 120K Engine Failure

zoomlater

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I hear more of a tapping sound verses a whine. What brand timing belt did you install. That sometimes causes a whine until more miles are put on it.
 

zoomlater

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When I had my front 60K done (at 90K), I used a Shosource provided belt. It was a Gates belt, but they sell other brands as well. My car had a slight whine for about a 1000 miles. I can hear your whine in that last post, it seem higher pitch than the one I had. If you search on this forum, others have mentioned a whine with a Gates belt.

search "timing belt whine" to find those threads
did you check the condition of the timing belt tensioner, free spinning, no noises
 
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myotis1134

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@zoomlater - Yes - I received a new timing belt tensioner in the kit. I also adjusted the timing belt setup multiple times before getting the positioning and tension correct. I had issues when following the shophoenix tutorial, but presumably got it all right from following the ‘89 sho engine book shop manual.
 

rubydist

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And the timing belt does also whine if its too tight, so make sure that's not the issue. I did see a cam broke once from a too-tight timing belt.
 

luigisho

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That's loud. I wonder if it's the belt, the tension, or a pulley bearing. Hard to tell. Have you taken it for a spin to see how it performs?
Check out the noise on this Toyota
around 3:10
 

rubydist

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your noise could also be an air leak whistle - does it change pitch directly with rpm change?
 

myotis1134

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@rubydist - Yes the noise definitely changed in response to rpm. If it’s another intake leak, it would have to be one of the two runner-flanges right next to the timing belt cover. I’ll find out in a couple hours when everything is back together.

In the meantime, I’ve redone the timing belt tensioner for the 4th (5th?) time... strictly following the ‘89 sho engine operations book
E1CB23C8 7E62 4433 A12F EFA974FB3940

1. Set crankshaft dampener to theoretical TDC and ensure that cam sprockets line up to their respective timing marks.
2. Loosen tensioner so that only the spring applies force against the timing belt.
3. Rotate crankshaft dampener just shy of two full revolutions and align yellow timing mark on dampener at zero on lower belt cover.
(I’m assuming that this step is for the sole purpose of distributing any slack in the belt)
4. Pop the hatch on the lower timing belt cover and torque the tensioner retaining nut to approximately 25-37 lb/ft.
5. Continue dampener rotation until white timing mark lines up at zero.

That’s the abbreviated procedure for tensioning a belt already installed. If I continue to observe a whine when I fire it up in a few hours, and it doesn’t turn out to be another air leak, I’m not certain if I should attempt to place less tension on the timing belt...
 

myotis1134

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OK gentlemen - problem solved.

Sorry for the delay, but you know, life...

So after I buttoned up the engine last night, it fired up with no atypical noises or behaviors. I drove it around the hillside attempting to see if I'd managed to add enough coolant to keep the temp gauge from going berserk, then took it through a car wash. Ran like a dream, even when I really got into the throttle. This means that the timing belt was in fact, too tight, and not by a lot either. Apparently it doesn't take much to throw that thing off.

I'd like to thank everyone who gave their two cents and helped me troubleshoot this thing. You are all gentlemen, and your gentlemanliness is exceeded only by the size of your manhood.

Next up - clutch replacement. I'll be in touch.
 

zoomlater

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See if you can find the Sho Nut Performance clutch replacement video, someone may have a copy floating around, maybe Josh still has copies he sells
 
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luigisho

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Ditto with zoomlater. I gave my video away a few years ago but that will really help if you can track one down.
 
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