Please Help

[shooff20170423]

V6 1989 Ford Taurus SHO. Car surges , RPM’s rev up and down, stalls, cuts off when driving, to make a long story short. I took it too ford and they told me I need a crank shaft positioning sensor, water pump and a timing chain. Is there anybody in the Charlotte NC area who knows how to repair these problems? PLEASE HELP. This is the only car I have to get me back and forth to work. My personal email is [email protected] if anyone can help. I hope the crank shaft positioning sensor, water pump and timing chain are the problems. It’s a common problem from what I'm told. Antifreeze leaks on the sensor and causes the car problems. PLEASE HELP. My Phone number 201-522-6647

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[haydenkayne]

you should try yo get a hold of the forum member nctaurussho they are in elizabeth city. they definatly know what ther are doing

 

[Eric VerValin]

Me thinks it sounds more like an IAB valve... ever replaced it? What the ****.. I'll just call ya..

 

[chevrolet]

Ford dealer mechanics are ignorant to sho's. The surging is either a dirty throttle body Idle port or a gummed up IAC. The stalling does sound like the CPS. The timing belt, not a chain is a rare failure. If the tach drops to 0 after stalling still in gear, the CPS is the culprit. The coolant pump if leaking it's rumored to cause CPS failure. There may be some truth to that. I am near Concord.nc

 

[chevrolet]

The most common component failures related to stalling are #1 The CPS, #2 the fuel pump. The fuel pump will buzz for a second or two after turning the key to the on position. If it doesn't after stalling, you have a fuel system failure. It could be as simple as a plug-in connector or the pumps do go bad. Sometimes you can wack the bottom of the tank and get it to pump to buzz up some PSI,...if this is accompished you need a fuel pump. A cam sensor or the or a 0x2 sensor will not cause stalling, The DIS is very rare to fail. None of these sensors are like to cause surging. The IAC controls the idle and can get gummed up. And a simple cleaning will correct this.

 

[itwonder]

Does this happen when coming to a stop or slowing to go around a corner.... or does it happen when just driving along? If it happens when coming to a stop or slowing, and you've had the battery disconnected lately, you may need to do an idle reset. Unhook the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes, reconnect it, start the car and immediately turn the headlights and AC on. Let it idle for 5 minutes whilte the computer resets the proper idle.

You should clean the throttle body and Mass Airflow Sensor with spray cleaners designed specifically for those purposes. If the problem continues, remove and clean the Idle Air control. Your car may be due for routine maintenance that includes replacement of the timing belt, CPS, and water pump. But I do not think that will fix your present problem.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Here's the self test thing I was telling you about...

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm


And here's the front end link there I was tellin ya about...
http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

 

[Vnuk1]

Just curious are you running your heat while this is happening? Mine did the same thing and I unplugged the A/C compressor due to A/C Clutch failure and it runs fine. Just throwing that out there might help might not good luck.

 

[shooff20170423]

It happens when iam coming to a stop and slowing down not all the time. It will surge a lot on the highway, or when leaving a stop light. It will stop surging when I take my foot off the gas. Once It stops, I put my foot back on the gas until it happens again

 

[Huntervf]

I would ignore the idle air bypass valve right now; it's really only going to come into play when you're at idle. A bad crankshaft sensor can definitely be the reason why the car is cutting out/stalling, but it shouldn't cause a surging condition.

I would be HIGHLY suspicious of your Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF), as it can cause all kinds of havoc when it goes bad. I would also look at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), which can also cause problems and it would be most noticable when you're on the gas.

The good news is that both of these items are sitting right out in the open under the hood. The MAF is that round silver aluminum tube mounted on the lid of the airbox. The TPS is the little square-ish plastic box on the side of the throttle body. Both the TPS and MAF have a wiring harness going to them, and both can be changed out in about 5 minutes. I'd start with the MAF; take it off the airbox lid and loosen the rubber air intake tube from the throttle body. Then just get a can of electronics cleaner and spray the heck out of that MAF, you can easily see the sensor if you flip the airbox lid upside down. Shouldn't any more than a couple minutes.

Clean that MAF then report back to us

 

[shobote]

Have exchanged emails with him and He already cleaned the MAF and the dealer put a new one in and didn't change it.

x2 on fuel pump; check fuel pressure at schrader valve. It is a common failure on these cars with high mileage if it is still the original.

 

[chevrolet]

A TPS is a possibility however a TPS with a dead spot will record a history code as a IAC thats gummed up won't. Because its operating normal but sticking due to the gunk. This problem occured to me after cruising at interstate speeds pulling of an exit ramp it would surge up & down to 2200 rpm and settle down after a short time and be normal at city speeds. Simply shooting carb cleaner through the idle air port on the TB corrected this surging condition.

 

[Devin]

In my Topaz when my IAC went bad I would idle at 2000-3000 RPMs, my car would pull hard without my foot on the throttle and would randomly shoot the RPMs uncontrollably (beyond 4000!). Turned out the plastic gear inside broke. The IAC definitely can affect the car at any time while it is on, and I never got a code.

 

[chevrolet]

The IAC has no gears. Its a magnet it goes in and out.

 

[Devin]

Whether that's true or not doesn't matter as to the fact that the IAC can screw up your running RPM not matter if you are in gear or not.

 

[johndallara]

SHO issues

agree w/ checking IABP, possibly trying a replacement, and cleaning MAF.

If you hear fuel pump coming on w/ ignition key on /engine off, then check pressure at rails. might also consider replacement of fuel filter (R rear).

CPS might be possible also, have you run the codes?

Paul/Ashley are good resource in Eliz City. Also some local folks in central NC who might be able to help.

JD
Chapel Hill, NC
919-810-9971

 

[Reboticon]

It could be 100 different things. Pull the codes or take it to an independent shop that will pull them for cheap if you don't know how.

Check the intake boot between the Mass Aiir Flow and the Throttle Body for a tiny rip or tear. Make sure the clamps are tight. Any vacuum leak between them (is one of many things) that can cause those symptoms.

 

[chevrolet]

Not 100 things. The IAC is gunked up. Don't fiddle with the MAF. somewhat its delicate.

 

[Devin]

++

I caught my shirt on the long post and snapped the electrode off. The car acted really funny then!

 

[38SHO]

here is where I would start

check codes for free via paperclip method

clean throttle body and IAC(hey even if it doesn't fix your problem its not bad to do anyhow)

check for vacuum leaks

one of these things will point you in the right direction

check to make sure you have a throttle cable return stop, and adjust if nessecary... I don't know if its the proper term or what not, but its a stud with a nut on it on the throttle body that the linkage hits when you are at closed throttle........

one more thing, who knows... is this a california car possible? does it have EGR... its on the rear driver side of theintake manifold... by the brake master cylinder kinda... if there is just a blank spot on the intake with nothing bolted into it... its not EGR... if you have the sticker still by the radiator with the emissions information it should also note that it is a California car and has EGR.... EGR can cause funny problems like this too...... makes the car run lean if its allowing air when its not supposed to, this can create stumbling sensations at idle

it doesn't sound like a fuel pump problem, it doesn't sound like a maf problem, it doesn't sound like a CPS problem either.....

this problems sounds like it is something in the intake .... I could be totally wrong, but thats where I would start if it were my car.......

if you need any help figuring out how to do these things let me know