Please help!!!!

[TheLOSTSHO]

I've got a 2011 Ford Taurus SHO PP, and it came with a bad turbo, the place i got it from said it has upgraded turbos, but the very first day I remember getting off the highway and smelling something get hot, well now it's 3 months down the road and I know it's been a turbo leaking oil, right at the oil supply line and also in through the intercooler tube out the BOVs and into the intercooler, so I need a new turbo, OR, do you know if I can just get a new core, or even just a turbo rebuild kit, eBay had 300$ cores for both turbos, idk what seal keeps the oil from getting into the intercooler pipe! If I need a new turbo is there a decent brand on eBay like the built for Ford brand, dorman, or quality build, please help

 

[kryptto]

First, miles of the car is helpful.

I will leave the turbo discussion for those that have more experience.

The oil in the rest of the system, is normal, however to curb the amount, use a Catch Can and the proper oil viscosity. The 2010 thru 14 used to recommend 5-20, however 5-30 weight and SN+ rated. You will need to empty the intercooler, more than likely there is a decent amount collecting in the bottom from blow by.

There is many many great threads explaining removing oil from the IC, and proper maintenance.

I had a JLT CC, but much more like my UPR, it collects more. Call Steve at UPR and ask for a dual valve system, also ask where the install video is. I have posted pictures of my UPR setup. No retrofitting work with stock and aftermarket CAI.

edited:

2014 SHO - Cylinders 3 and 4 Valves and Stems 28K NO Cleaning - CC added at 25K · Sunday, Oct 29, 2023 📸

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[SHOdded]

the oil feed lines are known to leak. replace them and their seals/filters. there is a bulletin from ford on this issue.

scope out the intercooler and clean it out as well. clean the throttle body and the map/iat sensors while at it.

replace the pcv valve/assembly.

then reevaluate what you need.

yes you could go with the chra kits on ebay, but personally, i would either restore to oem turbos or get a set of upgraded turbos vetted on this forum. if it should come down to it.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

I agree. I would also try to figure out what "upgraded" means. If they are upgraded, I would assume the car is tuned to those turbos. You should either replace with the same or tune to the replacements.

 

[TheLOSTSHO]

I agree. I would also try to figure out what "upgraded" means. If they are upgraded, I would assume the car is tuned to those turbos. You should either replace with the same or tune to the replacements.

Damn, you all are so helpful! So I do have a oil separator that was the first thing I bought when I get the car, and relpaced the pcv valve when I noticed the leak, miles are at 113k, you ever hear of pure energy turbos Or mahle I found one some for the right around 400-580$ not bad

 

[TheLOSTSHO]

Today I jacked the driver side of the car and sucked out the ic, lots of oil in there! Would running 10w 30 in a 5w 30 system really hurt the turbos I know the oil is thicker but just by 5w also I know that when it's cold oil is harder to move, just curious is all, it's in the recommended or allowed criteria

 

[SHOdded]

Damn, you all are so helpful! So I do have a oil separator that was the first thing I bought when I get the car, and relpaced the pcv valve when I noticed the leak, miles are at 113k, you ever hear of pure energy turbos Or mahle I found one some for the right around 400-580$ not bad

not heard of pure energy. mahle as in engine components mahle? they are a reputable, established company but no idea about their turbos.

Today I jacked the driver side of the car and sucked out the ic, lots of oil in there! Would running 10w 30 in a 5w 30 system really hurt the turbos I know the oil is thicker but just by 5w also I know that when it's cold oil is harder to move, just curious is all, it's in the recommended or allowed criteria

10w30 should be fine unless you are out in alaska or something. works well in iowa and illinois weather. key is always to let the engine reach operating temp before stomping on the gas pedal in cold weather.

 

[BradM]

Damn, you all are so helpful! So I do have a oil separator that was the first thing I bought when I get the car, and relpaced the pcv valve when I noticed the leak, miles are at 113k, you ever hear of pure energy turbos Or mahle I found one some for the right around 400-580$ not bad

Look on eBay for "Custard Core Supply". I bought complete OEM turbos from them last year. The price was amazing and other than being open box, they were perfect. If you want to replace just the cores, look at CR Performance Engineering Inc. Their cores are made in the UK (not China!).

 

[Joshw0000]

not heard of pure energy. mahle as in engine components mahle? they are a reputable, established company but no idea about their turbos.


10w30 should be fine unless you are out in alaska or something. works well in iowa and illinois weather. key is always to let the engine reach operating temp before stomping on the gas pedal in cold weather.

What purpose are you hoping to achieve by using 10W30? The first set of numbers is when the engine is cold so going from 5W30 to 10W30 seems to me like it would do more harm than help as it would flow less freely only for the few minutes when the engine is cold. Once the car got to operating temps, the oil would be at 30 weight like normal.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[SHOdded]

10w30 will help with fuel dilution as it is less likely to drop out of the 5w30 range than 5w30 is. better for the engine.

5w and 10w specs are very similar in the cold. you have to remember, the weights are not fixed, they are ranges.

 

[kryptto]

20-50 it is for S FL driving.... wooohooo

 

[BradM]

10w30 will help with fuel dilution as it is less likely to drop out of the 5w30 range than 5w30 is. better for the engine.

5w and 10w specs are very similar in the cold. you have to remember, the weights are not fixed, they are ranges.View attachment 89469

There a billion different opinions on motor oils and I hope this doesn't turn into an oil thread but I feel compelled to add my 2 cents. I rarely second guess the engineers who select the proper oil viscosity. Engine oil is more than just a lubricant, it is used as a hydraulic fluid to run cam phasers, lifters, and chain tensioners, for example. They consider these systems when selecting an oil. They also can select ultra thin oils to improve fuel economy in certain engines (see 0W-16). The only time I select a different viscosity oil is for a tired engine with low oil pressure.

I do, however, absolutely second guess the recommended change intervals. Car manufactures get credit for reducing the carbon footprint of a car and having long change intervals helps achieve this goal. I run full synthetic and change at 5000 miles with normal driving. I believe this has far more impact on engine life than changing the viscosity. Just my 2 cents.

 

[kryptto]

I hope this doesn't turn into an oil thread

ok, will delete my post in another thread

 

[TheLOSTSHO]

Well after a full Saturday and a half Sunday I got the rear turbo replaced, went with a rotomaster turbo, so far so good, my goodness was that a pain in the ass. Found out the place put very cheap eBay turbos on the car unbranded, lol they told me it had upgraded turbos,,, yeah right more like downgraded, prolly like $150 a pop, so eventually I'm going to have to replace the front one now im super nervous because they also said they put a new motor in the car, so that prolly means its got over 180k odometer reads 113k
anyone know a way to run the s/n on the motor to see last know miles?????

 

[kryptto]

anyone know a way to run the s/n on the motor to see last know miles?

Those who work or come from the industry will know better than me, however I work closely with a reputable shop near my home. They use a system tied to CarFax. So there should be some history out there. The dealerships systems are all tied together ov course.

 

[TheLOSTSHO]

Well now my new back right turbo I just installed is leaking oil out the BOV again. I still have the eBay turbo on the front do you guys know if the front turbo is bad would it cause the back turbo to leak, im tripping, only have 1,500 miles on this new turbo it should not be leaking, i think oil is coming from somewhere and being thrown into the turbo and up and out my bov at least the one in the back, the front bov never blows oil, the pcv valve is good, i thought it might be just leftover oil from the intercooler, so i let it contine, also to note it only leaks when I really get on it, or if I come off the highway, if I'm just in town driving there is no oil smell so no leak. I'm looking into some BILLET CHRA from npboosted on eBay to just replace the front and have a back up for the rear